zensphoto

<p>Well, I'll miss imagepro, I put a ton of work into it. The only thing I lost was all my links on my links page. I rewrote a new page that I just finished using Jalbum that just so happened to work out for the best. I actually like the Jablum website I just finished up. I placed a photo.net in the Navbar so people could see my work from here along with a whole new setup for everything else from this year. It took me a total of 4 hours to write a new site and put it on my URL. No bubble no trouble I say. I definitely won't waste anytime using photo.net (if they replace imagepro with something else) Forget it, what I got now is working way better. Thanks for the use of imagepro when it was around! Check it out! www.zensphotography.com</p>

<p>What about trying to bounce the flash off something that might help the flash not illuminate the dust particles as much?</p>

 

<p>You could hang that longer roll for a few days in a clean environment and use a heavy weight after most of the coil is out of it for an alternative if there is some lead at the top and end of the roll. What John says will also work.</p>

 

<p>But the technical manual states you can use 5 different screens including the grid and the focusing 5 points should be etched on the glass underneath the plastic interchangeable screen. If you remove that screen you should be able to see the 5 focus nodes. Perhaps, the camera's AF isn't working anymore? The standard screen is etched with the 5 focus nodes to show you were they are. That shouldn't effect them having a screen with out them such as the grid screen. I suspect the AF isn't working properly. I don't have the EOS A2, but on my EOS v1 it looks just like that.</p>

<p>Really, the 60D is lower now because the 70D is coming out. Just because the 60D is 5 years old doesn't mean you can't get great photographs from it. Do what you like it's your money.</p>

<p>OK now that you clarified it, then I'd say you better thing about IS all the way then. I know it is very expensive, but a must for hand held.</p>

 

<p>I have a much cheaper 18mm - 200mm EF-S IS lens for my Canon 60D. While on the Tripod IS is always off. When you are shooting around IS is a must especially in lower light situations such as a wedding environment. For the Portraits studio you're probably going to be shooting from a tripod and not use the IS on the lens. Shooting with the non-IS is doable as long as you have enough light, take your time for each photograph, be as still as you can and you got a great shot. Seem to me you will be on the tripod with the 70-200 more than off the tripod. You could get a nice prime lens and just get up close with it when you are shooting weddings. You are probably going to be using a flash at a wedding, something I use so IS might not be that important after all. Think about what you plan to use the 70-200 for what applications you are really going to use it for.</p>

<p>I don't know Dan, I don't really think it matters that much. I've rented the 5DM3 and played around with it. I'll keep my 60D for another year and see what the next 5DMx brings to the table. Just not enough improvements for me to spend an extra 3 grand for a body. It's not what you got, it what you can do with what you got that matters.</p>

<p>Here is something to consider. <br /><br />From the 7D to the 5DM3 you are only gaining 4.3Mpixels. It is more than likely at ISO 6400 to look like the photograph above. Maybe with a 50mm f1.4 or f1.2 and a lower ISO you could get a much clearer photograph without so much grain. A tripod would also help out a lot. If you want to say the 22.3 5DM3 senor is better than say my 60D 18.0 so be it, but I really don't think it would be that much of a difference less how large you want to make the photograph. I'm able to pull off 24x36 size photographs with the 60D no problem even in the dark. <br /><br />If you were smart you would wait for the new 7D M2 that is likely to come out some time this year with the way Canon has dropped the price on the body of the 7D. If sensors are the only thing you are comparing you might as well pick up a Nikon D800 with the 36.3 Mpixel sensor it is less than the 5DM3.<br /><br />I wouldn't be to hasty to dump the 7D right yet. Just my opinion.</p>

<p>Assuming you are speaking about</p>

<h1>70-300mm F4-5.6 APO DG Macro</h1>

<p>The sigma apo dg is a full frame lens. I have one It works on my Canon 60D with a 1.6x crop factor. And on my EOS 1v film. APO DG is = to a Canon EF Lens if you want to compare it like apples to apples as far as what it can fit on. It is not an EF-S lens. <br /><br />The Sigma 70-200 2.8 EX should have DG on it some place or it is an older model is also a Full Frame Lens like a Canon EF lens. Also not an EF-S Lens. As long as the Sigma lens isn't a DC which supports APS-C you should be OK with the 1D Mark iv. You're always going to have the 1.3x crop factor to calculate.</p>

<p>I have a 60D I got back in August of 2011. The 70D has some very interesting new features the new APS-C sensor size is nice to see it over 18Mpix at last. But with all the nice things it has, I will continue to shoot my 60D until I am ready to have the shutter replaced and will look and see what Canon has in another year or so. <br /><br />If I was Canon and I'm definitely not Canon. I would dump the 7D, since I already have a full frame 6D. The next release is probably going to be a new EOS M MarK II. The current EOS M is going for 299.00 this weekend at BH Video. Eliminate the 7D keep the 6D, the 70D is the new of the new. Can't wait to see what the 80D looks like.</p>

<p>Maybe it is a lemon. Or you might have to go through the settings and calibrate it a little bit. I know my canon 60D didn't just start shooting amazing photographs right out of the box. I had to work with it and get it setup so it shoots the way I want it too. Or maybe it is just a lemon and needs to be returned or sent to service at Canon in NJ. I have another question for you? <br>

Where did you buy it at? From who?</p>

<p>I use continuous lighting (40w compact fluorescent cool white bulbs) I purchased a pvc cutter from a local hardware store and built a mobile and stationary portrait studio. All for about $200 USD. 131.74 £. I don't use any flash every photograph comes out near perfect. Used a basic wiring diagram to control 4 lights per unit. So I can have one on or two, three, and all four. I have 3 of these units built out of pvc, an oil changing pan, with wax paper over the front to diffuse the light. I can put in warmer compact fluorescent bulbs if I like to warm up the photographs if it looks like I need that. I have added to the setup by purchasing a 7 inch lilliput that connects directly to my Canon 60D so I can view the photograph just taken bigger to see how it came out. <br /><br />Sometimes I use my 10.1 inch android tablet and the camera together to view the photographs even larger. This system works great for me and cost a fraction of what it would have cost me to buy all the equipment. <br /> </p>

<p>Pec-12 might remove it, use a nice clean soft cotton cloth.</p>

<p>The person behind the tool is what makes great photographs. T5i looks like another winner for the 18MP sensor ASP-C. I shoot with the canon 60D love the camera love the kit lens 18mm - 200mm IS lens. Wouldn't trade it for anything else but an upgrade in a few years. </p>

<p>Try doing this. On Youtube search on "frugal photographer" no quotes and watch the video's this guy has on using PVC to build things very cheap that work. I have managed to make new PVC studio equipment I use everyday. Including Compact Fluorescent and LED lighting we use in wedding videos and still studio digital non-flash photography. You can make just about anything you need including back drop stands, tripods and tripod heads. Adjustable or non-adjustable light stands. What ever you need you can create for a heck of lot less. Something to look at anyway.</p>

<p>You know you can push the 800 ISO Fuji Neopan as far as 6400 ISO and still get a pretty good shot of out it. I have pushed 800 to 3200 and have created a lot of real nice photographs. Perhaps, Fuji feels 800 will do just fine. </p>

<p>Try using the EOS Utility and connect the 5D3 to the computer using the USB cable. You should be able to see the second collection there and down load it to your computer as RAW if you shot in RAW (JPEG) Once you have them and you are sure you have them, you can disconnect the camera from the cable and format the card from the camera side. </p>

<p>Blue Hen Falls part of the Cuyahoga Valley National Park in HDR. Taken Sunday October 14th. 2012.<br /> <img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/16519755-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="453" /></p>

<center>Canon 60D</center>

<p>Every 5000 photographs or so I start to see that same spot and a few others on my Canon 60D, with a sensor kit the spots go away and then again later after about 5000 more photographs they show up again in different places. I again clean the senor and they go away. I have had canon clean the sensor and the rest of the inside of the camera but like clockwork every 3 months or so I have to clean it all again. It is a pretty normal occurrence with my canon 60D. You'll eventually see them again in a few months and you might want to look into a sensor cleaning kit, or join CPS and get two or three free cleanings a year and have them clean it for you.</p>

<p>Akron North Side Bridge<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/16500337-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="454" /></p>

<p>One way to reduce this harsh shadow is if and (I know you don't always have this control but when you do have this control and you only have one flash) ask your subject(s) to take a step forward away from the back ground. I image it would be hard to ask a bulldozer to take a step forward. You can almost completely eliminate shadows by hand in photoshop when you have to.</p>

<p>Is this a test post?</p>

<p>If it is a standard M Plate you could look at <a href="http://www.customslr.com/">Custom SLR</a>. Is the tripod number 4242?</p>

<p>Here is how I do it. <a href="http://www.fotomoto.com/">Fotomoto</a>, and by <a href="http://jalbum.net/en/purchase">JAlbum</a>. The pro version of JAlbum is $79 USD, free upgrades until they get to version 11.99 who knows how many years it will take them to get there with that. FotoMoto is free. Fotomoto takes a cut and you don't have to pay then for the space because you can get a gator hosting baby package with unlimited space and transfer rate for $9.95 a month. Total the first year $198.40 and each year after only $119.40. My sites look professional, I created some simple java scripts that anyone can use. Message me and I can show you how to make it happen, free of course as far as service time goes. You'll be required to pay for JAlbum and your web space of course </p>