martial_baribault1

One excellent I used on different cameras is original Norman as oftenly seen on Hasselblab. I don't know if this product is made any more if that is what you are looking for I should have one around.

First answer is pretty much on the ticket, different angles will produce different effects and I would add that it is important to note that if you see some effect in viewfinder, it might disappear on the shot or dwarfed as different Fstops will change or minimize it somtimes so you might want to use depth of field for accurate preview.

Genuine Plexiglass is ideed very expenmsive ,you should go to a glass/window/door shop , might have more affordable alternatives.

A tripod GUARANTEE you of not moving the camera while shooting for MAXIMUM IMAGE QUALITY, that removes a variable in the equation. Known names are generally excellent Bogen has a good price to quality ratio ,Stay away from the cheapies , they'll sure let you down before long and surely when you most need it.

Yes it is, In fact Norman has a split cable that can be used for that purpose . I might have one myself but would have to look. I presumed that you meant LH2, Lh2K or similar heads.

I've seen a Photographer with some checked them out for a few pops sounded very decent .I actually ended up buying White Lightning 1800 and 1200 at the time (My very first lights).I just felt WL had a better construction smoother controls and replaceable by user flashtubes . I think in practice they line up good on the cheaper side . They were distributed by Adoram in New York City and I think they still hold them but have new models now. The actual Watts seconds figures are much like WL so a 1800 is about 900 WS a 1200 600WS. If you have a good deal you should get them I think . Pricing at the time was somewhat lower than WL of similar rating .

would likely be Broncolor Pulso Heads.

I had a custom prolab for 20 years so Have seen a few film around. In pratice films that are due to go to an automated slide mounter should ideally be processed in continuous or roller transport film processor. Loading on & processing on reel promote curl as inexorably you are always on the same direction .Film processor folds the film in different directions breaking it's normal curl/wound pattern. Since processor has always tension,film dries FLAT in it so no curl.Once dried Flat your'e home free. I had that problem when I shut down My E6 continuous Processor ,to do it in a Wing-Lynch (reels) and same problem you had. Fixed the problem by feeding them into the dryer part of My C41 processor and Presto , film were fine. Other ways are: (Not easy) is to roll your film emulsion out on the reels, hang your film in a loop in dryer(Base being inside the loop) , NEVER USE HEAT. Blower drying is good BUT NO HEAT. Fresh film kept in good fresh storage condition is easier to handle as the base (even if film still has good color characteristic) has a dried in place rolled pattern that is hard to break. Those rolls almost never dry flat no matter what you do with them.

Well to compare oranges with oranges let's say that watts-seconds figures are to be seen as logarithmic, meaning to take your first example that between 2400 and 1200 there is one stop light difference comparing to your camera would be that if you were to take that picture at F11 at 1200 watts-seconds then 2400 watts-seconds would enable you to close at F16 inversely 600 Watts-second would force you to open at F8 300WS F5.6 and so on.

Simple Basic reliable things, 3 stops (1/4,1/2,full) don't recycle as quick in North America but good enough, has on board slave triggering with infrared and standard light and are ancestors of Visatec and indeed use their accessory line. As usual with Bron NO standard accessories fits them not even an umbrella OH I was forgetting there is the the modeling light wich If I remember well, replacement is BRL.

Sure cheaper in a pretty short time on the long run A LOT. you need to have the time tough. It will enrich you greatly likely bringing your photography to a higher level combined with fine tuning to your taste.I don't recommend doing color work as it is fastidious, process oriented and there is little you can do to enrich your photos and oftenly enough can end up with lower quality prints. I operated a Pro custom lab for 20 years .

From what I can see flash will need service. it looks like it doesn't charge so no discharge. The fact that modeling light is working is just that, as it is an independant complementary circuit.altough it might be a minor repair , expect a $100.00+ repair bill as you can't get much done below that price from a specialized shop .If you know someone handy with electronics you might try that.The best course might be to sell it on EBay as you described, and get something else.

Hello,

I did calibrate a WP1000 with another flashmeter ( I think there were 3or 4 trimpots) as the wp1000 has 2 ranges. As I remember 1 pot would be the base setting , the other the slope meaning the reaction as per amount of light given to read . It is touchy to do as you don't know wich is wich. I would start by removing unnecessary variables like low battery, meaning buy a fresh battery preferably starting by battery test analysis , then go from there on trial & error. comparing readings until you get a match with the other meter and continue testing 2 stops steps and adjusting Only one trimpot at a time and recording original position if no desired effect from the first, return it to were it was and try same movement on the other and so on.

 

Those meters altough might looks easy to break but are instead pretty tough seen many with broken dial faces from numerous floor falls and still going strong. It doesn't mean it can't need repairs but not oftenly. Category of Sensors used in those generally dies flat no response never seen any grow old and act like one.

Fluorescents are cooler and in long session that single point becomes ultimately important , I don't like "hot lights" mainly for that reason ,however Fluo is not snappy tough so some sharp tungsten are in order sometimes. In the end kind/style of photos you want to take shall determine what you opt for.Also, never spend your budget all at one time .Buy & try , I like boom too but don't believe they are mandatory(well one Maybe ). Start without one and see how it comes out, test with a high up light shooting down and if you think you like/need the effect then go get one .

Hello,

This has nothing to do with flash but with the camera. Generally speaking curtain style shutter camera cannot go over 1/125 second, it takes in the lens shutter to achieve higher Flash Synch shutter speed one of the reason a while ago I was Using Bronica ETRS and Mamiya RZ to have that capability as do large format. What you see as black gradiant is part of the shutter that is present while your flashes are popping.

Hello,I like the religious fervor comment. The set is More like 20 Yeards old likely but Black speedos can just go forever.This (2401) pack is well oversize however it goes on and on.It can roll down the stairs , you plug it and surprise it works like nothing happened.I wouldn't dream about it from AB's As for adjustment, you should look in the front(red diagrams) for combination of outlets/output .you should get something acceptable ratios w/o moving heads much .It is obviously more for carrying but for $600.00 can't really pass.If you do ,tell me, I might add it up to my collections.If you need lighter heads , I can exchange for 103 as suggested . AB's accessories are cheap and are interchangeable with WL's Balcar(Wide/wild line of accessories)

Robert is right on the money, plugging in 1/2 hour to reform then test fire a few pops at 1/2 then full and you're on . Honeywell had very good caps in them wich rarely fails. The slave is pulled then rotated in the direction trigger flash will be coming from.Light controls for them is rarely seen and I suggest you try to do yourself some

It's me again. forgot to add about light modifiers/softboxes , CHIMERA is really my cup of tea ,the wildest line of accessories.modofiers are Bron with over inflated prices and BALCAR ( I have Balcar equipment too just for the accessories , even adapted some to speedo. Prices are normal.

I used all that was mentioned before and altough Broncolor is highly reliable and have a great line of accessories ,you need a limitless budget to acquire them .Price for accessories adapters or whatever is just outright abusive.I pass under silence abusive service bills too. A comparable flashtube is selling 3 times as much as anybody else and it's not ANY better.Speedo Blackline is excellent and besides accessories are not fitting perfectly/precisely, that is by far good enough ,you don't need precision in mounting accessories (precision won't change lighting qualities), you need quick, sturdy mounting and easy compatibility with other stuff that regular stores will hold . You can easily find a speed ring for Speedo Black , not so with Bron wich oftenly changes mount as they change their line,again I won't mention the difference in price even less the very few that will have it in stock.Speedo Packs are quick and those who had uneven ones should probably have changed service outlet or the packs were pretty old. I have many blackline heads and never seen difference between them except when a tube is about to die.They are well maintained tough so are the packs. As for Battery sets, I am not crazy about any big one especially for fashion , I feel they're just not quick enough. We use a Crew of Norman 400B and a sack of batteries and we're fine. We tried with good gen but as far as I could get it , I still could hear and it was really going on my nerve

Well lots of excellent explanations here but to simplify everything is that flash duration in sports is important and the lowest is best depending on budget .That brings me to say how's that was traditionally achieved is by using larger than needed flashtubes and/or/heads . Speedotron Blackline is a good example on how it is done looking at their 9600 Watts seconds 4 tube heads that many tought it was used only for it's high power but most were using it for it's much Shorter flash duration.Dumping power in a flashtube at at 10-25% of it's capacity will shorten flash duration for sure