sean_mcgroty

<p>NEF files produced by Nikon Scan aren't the same as the NEF files produced by digital cameras. Additionally, B/W scanner NEF is not supported in anything but Nikon Scan. See here: http://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/13821.<br>

I usually have Nikon Scan save as 16-bit TIFF with no software corrections and do all editing in Photoshop. There's no real advantage to saving as NEF.</p>

<p>The FH-869G is not intended to scan Xpan film. That's the FH-869GR, the rotating glass holder. The automatic frame finding on the 869S/G mask is designed for use with medium format film. That said, you can try setting the frame size to 6x7 or higher and masking off the empty glass areas. Best bet is to mask off everything but one frame and all the area to the sides of the strip. You will probably have exposure and color problems with the automatic settings because there is so much blank area it will throw off the autoexposure, so you should adjust the analog gain manually. Also manually set an autofocus point on the actual image area to further avoid problems.</p>

<p>Whoa, hold on here. 1:10 is <i>not</i> the same as 1+10. 1:10 means "one part of the chemical in 10 parts total." A 1:10 ratio is the same as 1+9, which is another way of stating "one part of the chemical to 9 parts water."<br>

If the dilution is 1:10, that's 1.6 oz chemical and 14.4 oz water. 16 oz total, 1.6 oz of that is the chemical.</p>

<p>This happened to me once. I removed the outer cover, which is very easy. Remove the screws on the back and bottom and it will slide off. There are no hidden screws or clips. Once I had the cover off I was able to relatch the tray cover, which had popped up and caused the tray to become stuck. The tray ejected fine after that.</p>

<p>It is not necessary to develop Ektar only in Kodak chemistry, or any other Kodak or other brand film for that matter.</p>

<p>The short answer is "you don't." It is not possible to use full-power flash at shutter speeds higher than the camera's sync speed as the shutter does not reveal the entire sensor at a single time. You can look into FP high speed sync, but that drastically limits the flash's range as the flash must use multiple bursts to repeatedly illuminate the subject as the shutter moves across the sensor.</p>

Also, I should add that supporting the film will be difficult, though this is true for all medium format negs. The FH-869S has major problems holding film flat. The FH-869G is better, or you can buy glass sheets from fpointinc.com that will fit inside the 869S tray.

 

It's a shame, really. The Coolscan 9000 is such an amazing scanner, but it's held back by the stock trays.

It can't. Although the MF tray can physically accommodate a 6x17 frame, the scanner cannot scan the entire frame in a single pass. You'd have to scan in two segments using the 6x9 setting and stitch them together, making sure to manually specify focus and exposure.

I shot some artwork on Fuji T64, but I accidently underexposed by 2/3 stops. Is pushing the film worth it? I primarily intend to scan it.

I'm planning some copy work with my EC-TL and I'm deciding whether to use my 75mm f/2.8 Nikkor or 80mm f/2.4 Zenzanon. I've done

some tests and it's looking to be a toss-up, but I'd like to know if there's anything specific I should know.

 

Also, I have two 75mm Nikkors, one the older Nikkor-P and the other the newer Nikkor-P.C. The P.C's diaphragm at minimum aperture

appears smaller than the P's diaphragm at minimum aperture. Is this expected? The lenses appear to be of the same construction, but I

have found some references indicating the two lenses may have slightly different formulas.

"a D40 only works with the latest G lenses without a diaphragm control on the lens or the

very old non auto focus without any metering capability in the camera."

 

Sorry, but no. For autofocus, you need an AF-S or AF-I lens. A CPU lens (D, P, G-type) will

offer full metering capability, but no AF if it is not AF-S or AF-I. Non-CPU lenses will mount

but not meter.

The answer as to why on the D200 is checking the guide number of the bulb+reflector

combination. IOW, a reusable Polaroid back. Normally I use the flashbulbs on my film

cameras, but I've gotten some unusual results recently and I can't figure out if I've been

misjudging the subject distance or if the system isn't putting out as much light as I think

it is.

 

Ian: I'm not following. Why would the D200 need to supply any power to the holder? Do

you mean the high current supplied by the flashbulb battery through the D200s sync

circuitry can damage the camera?

I'm trying to sync flashbulbs with my D200. I have the shutter set to 1/30 with an appropriate aperture set

in manual mode, but the D200 won't fire the flashbulb. The holder is connected to the PC socket on the

side. I know the holder is good, having used it on other cameras. The D200's PC socket fires electronic

flashes, so I'm not sure why the camera doesn't fire the flashbulb. It would seem that the D200 has an

ability to sense when something is connected, and it doesn't "see" the flashbulb holder. Any insight?

The meter in my EC-TL has drifted out of calibration. There are four trimmers inside the camera, under

the left side of the casing, but I'm having trouble puzzling out the effects of each. It seems the bottom two

are a coarse and fine sensitivity adjustment, but I'm not sure. Can someone describe the functions of each

of the four trimmers?

How is solution 2 significantly different from solution 4? It seems creating the correction mask and hand-painting it in is going to involve the same amount of work as finding and cloning/healing all of the dust spots.

You are confusing mega<i>pixels</i> with mega<i>bytes</>. There is no direct correlation

between the megapixel ratings of various cameras and the file size of their RAW images.

It will not. The OneStep is a consumer camera and only takes 600 film. ID-UV, all Fuji instant

films, and the Polaroid equivalents are peel-apart pack film designed for a completely

different camera system.

Can you clarify what you mean when you say the lens "stops" before infinity?

Take the lens off and rotate the focusing ring. I suspect you will find the same issue and that

the problem is with the lens, not the body.

The fork is for a much older coupling system used on the F and F2. It is designed to engage a

pin in the base of the Photomic meters used on those SLRs. The only problem with the fork is

the possible interference with the portion of the prism housing directly above the lens

mount. It does not engage or interfere with the AI coupling ring in any way.

"unelss you have a separate video card you can only calibrate and profile one of the displays

at a time."

 

Many video cards have dual-display support, so a separate card is no longer needed for

multiple monitors.

Use the "Strip Film Offset" control.

This site might help you figure out what is going on: <a href="http://www.gballard.net/psd/go_live_page_profile/embeddedJPEGprofiles.html">http://www.gballard.net/psd/go_live_page_profile/embeddedJPEGprofiles.html</a>

It is the browser. There is currently only one color-managed browser, Safari. A non-color

managed browser will not use the embedded color profiles at all.

4x5 prints are probably contact prints from 4x5 large format sheet film, the predominant

size of professionally used film at the time.