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steve_robb1

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Posts posted by steve_robb1

  1. <p>I have to say, I am very surprised that there are actually laws out there (in Australia) regarding photography. I spend a good part of the year travelling the outback, but even when back at 'home' in the city I have never felt hindered in anything I do. I know there's a lot of paranoia out there, a lot of people seem to think that there's a paedophile hiding behind every tree just waiting to grab their little darlings, but I've never actually heard anything more than paranoia and 'what if's'. I will have to look into these 'new' laws, it might turn out I'm a dirty old man and never even knew it!</p>

    <p>But back to Nathan's original question, I got the impression, when you asked what the 'scene' is like, that you're after information on work, or possibly study in that area in Melbourne, or do you mean locations worth shooting? If you're after locations, I'm sure that between just the three of us who have responded so far, we could easily give you so many suggestions as to fill up your entire years visit <em>very</em> quickly!</p>

  2. <p>"please do note that australia has a lot of strict photograhpy laws."</p>

    <p>We do? I'll be the first to admit that I am well below the average informed citizen when it comes to keeping up with current affairs (I tune in to the ABC news radio once a week or so), so it would come as no surprise that there are rules and regulations passed that I had no idea about (apparently we even got some new road laws last month? Who knew!). However, I had no idea we had any sort of photographic laws, I know that my local swimming pool doesn't allow cameras, and I think I've seen signs in a shopping centre too, but in the ten years I've been living in Melbourne I have never encountered any sort of trouble whatsoever... maybe I'm just lucky?</p>

    <p>Just thinking about it, if there <em>are</em> laws, perhaps I'd rather not know, ignorance is bliss you know!</p>

  3. <p>I did a lot of research into finding a P&S that had manual shooting, while still remaining compact (ie, not stepping into the Canon G size... not even bringning the price differance into it) as that was one of my priorities for this particular camera. I bought a second hand LZ10 from KEH and love it. Small, compact (compared to other manual mode P&S's), it runs on AA's, which was actually my preferance, as when I travel (vehicle based exploring & camping) I have continuous chargers for other AA equipment.</p>

    <p>If you're after pocketable, then I can whole heartedly recommend the LZ10. From what I've heard, the LZ8 (minor difference in focal lengths, and 8 rather than 10Mpx) is actually a little sharper in its output than the LZ10, haven't tried one myself though.</p>

  4. <p>Thank you for the responses guys, sorry for the late reply! I must admit, the part of the manual that mentioned the green & red markers did throw me a bit (and not just because two of the lines were switched around!). The LunaSIX doesn't have those markers, whereas the LunaPRO obviously does. After a quick play around, it seems (through consistently repeatable results) that there is about one stop loss with the 15 degree, and a further 1.3 loss with 7.5. I might have to make a note of that on a piece of tape before I head away again tomorrow.</p>

    <p>Thanks again for the help.</p>

  5. <p > </p>

    <p > </p>

    <p >Good afternoon all,</p>

    <p > </p>

    <p >I’ve been having some problems with my tele attachment for my LunaSix F. I bought it used off ebay earlier this year from someone who (in the ad at least) claimed to not really know what it was. When that scenario comes along, you usually hope to get an unexpected bargain! But, I guess the opposite is also true… the mirror in the viewfinder is badly cracked/crazed, which I was happy enough to live with, since it was a bargain, and the seller did actually refund my postage (very reasonable fella0.</p>

    <p > </p>

    <p >I pulled it out the other day when I was setting up a scene to test development times for a new film/dev combo and wanted to write down exact measurements. I noticed that using the tele attachment (in either position) was giving me exposures 1-2 stops below the (both incident, and reflected) readings without it. I’m wondering if maybe the lens in the attachment is also damaged (although I couldn’t see any obvious signs). So my question to anyone else using these attachments, have you noticed any discrepancies between readings? …and before anyone asks, ‘yes’, in taking the readings I did take into account the restricted field of view of the attachment, and ‘yes’, all readings were taken with a grey card, all in the same position and same light… because I know that would be the first thing I would suggest! </p>

    <p > </p>

    <p >Thanks so much for your input, I really appreciate it.</p>

    <p > </p>

    <p >Cheers,<br>

    Steve</p>

  6. <p>Hi Massimo, I use an old Luna Pro F as my main (er, only) meter and love it, although I did consider 'upgrading' earlier this year, purely because I was finding it a bit bulky when hiking.</p>

    <p>I was just thinking, if you're noticing a regular underexposure, by the same amount each time, couldn't you just (in the mean time, until you decide on the meter to upgrade to) dial in that much compensation? I guess this would only work if you were seeing regular and consistent underexposure.</p>

    <p>cheers,<br>

    Steve</p>

  7. <p>G'day guys,</p>

    <p>Thanks for the responses. Yes, the Aussie outback is indeed hot dry and dusty, you need to keep a lot of things in big snap-lock bags, otherwise the bull-dust gets into everything!</p>

    <p>Like I said, I had pretty much made up my mind to just take the 645, I know what I'm like, if I have too many options I will just end up running around in circles stressing myself out rather than capturing the images I'm out there for. I think when I have embelished my 4x5 kit a little more to feel confident that I could capture any scene I was presented with, <em>then</em> I will bring it along, and leave the medium format gear at home.</p>

    <p>I'm very much looking forward to the trip now, I have an exhibit in a gallery opening this evening, visiting my brand new nephew tomorrow, then on the road before dawn on Sunday, ahhhh, let the peace and inspiration begin! I grew up on a sheep farm just shy of the 'true' outback, so I always have a great sense of 'home coming' as soon as I get dust stuck in my nose!</p>

    <p>Thanks again for the input, and making my decision more definite!</p>

    <p>Cheers, and happy travels!</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

  8. <p>Good afternoon all,</p>

    <p>Well, I've taken some long service leave and am heading back out to the outback for a month, some final mods and tweaks are coming together on the car and I'm almost all set. I have a little question about my photographic setup, not so much even a question really, as I <em>think</em> I've already made up my own mind, but I would still love to hear other peoples opinions and experiences.</p>

    <p>The focus of my trip is predominantly photography, a little bit of writing about the trip, and just a whole lot of 'getting away' time. <em>Originally</em> my plan had been to take my Pentax 645 kit as well as my (fairly newly acquired) Wista Field 4x5. I only got in to large format photography earlier this year, just after my last trip to the outback actually, and have just in the last couple of months bought this Wista as a more portable replacement for my Cambo monorail. Anyway, I <em>had</em> intended to take both systems but now I'm questioning that choice and thinking that it's probably wiser to stick to one 'pro' system (I also carry my Yashica Lynx and old Clack for street and 'arty' shots respectively). As much as I'm loving the infinite depth of field available with the 4x5, I'm wondering if it's worth waiting until I am more proficient with the view camera, and then taking it as my main kit? In the mean time, for this trip, stay with my tried & true 645 and liberate myself from the inevitable indecision as to which camera to take on each scouting trip! </p>

    <p>As much as I would love the option of the juicier 4x5 chromes, and being able to shoot panorama's with the roll back, maybe I'd be better to just keep my mind on one system at a time. what are your thoughts?</p>

    <p>Thanks,<br>

    Steve</p>

  9. <p>Thanks for the input guys, appreciate the comments. I'd say my Nikor M 300 should fit inside (haven't gotten it off the big board onto the Wista one yet, can't find my lens wrench, and it's on a LOT tighter than the others were!). I might have to look in to replacing my 90mm though, it's a big whopper, I've seen smaller ones, physically about the size of a 'regular' lens (know what I mean?). I'm impressed with the compactness of the Wista (coming from a monorail, that's no surprise), now I just need to trim down the rest of my LF kit.</p>

    <p>Thanks again guys.</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

  10. <p>Interesting, thanks for that Bruce, I suspect you're right.</p>

    <p>Jeff, thanks for the response, I just tried to pop my 90 in and had suden pulpetations when the rear element was too large to fit through the front standard! (it's a Komuranon 5.6) After a brief "Of crap, I wonder how much I would get for it, and if I can get a decent replacement with that cash" I remembered that therear "shade" (for want of a better term?) is removable, just leaving the unprotected convex element on the rear of the lens. Doing this it fits perfectly. I'm assuming there are no latent problems with this? The shade is more for protection of the real element than anything else, correct?</p>

  11. <p>Good afternoon all,</p>

    <p>I have just bought an old Wista 45 Technical to replace my good old Cambo SC... I can feel location shooting getting easier already! I only received the Wista yesterday, so between work and taking a young lady out to dinner, I haven't had much of a chance to have a proper play with it yet.</p>

    <p>I did pop a lens on the (very small and convenient to pack) lens board to have a quick fiddle. I noticed that this lens got in the way of the base rails when trying to close the camera, so I'm wondering, a) are these cameras not designed to hold a lens while shut? & b) if they are, are there any specific models I should be looking at to use with it? I haven't tried any of my other lenses yet, but it would be nice to have even just one lens that can live inside the camera (perhaps a 135mm?) to make for a convenient carry setup.</p>

    <p>I currently have a four lens setup which I'll have to get new boards for, I have a Nikor-m 300mm (being more compact, it <em>might</em> fit?) as well as a 180, 135 and 90mm (whose models I can't recall at the moment). I have been maning to upgrade the 135 & 180 anyway, since their front elements aren't the nicest, so I'm not too fussed if I need different ones in those ranges to fit (thinking a 210 might suit me better than the 180 anyway).</p>

    <p>Does anyone have any recommendations for a lens (or two) that fall between 135 & 210, and would be suitable to live inside this Wista folder (it's an older version, before the SP)? Also, while I'm buying lens boards, will I need a recessed board for the 90mm?</p>

    <p>Thanks for your help, it's much appreciated.</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

  12. <p>Thanks for the suggestions guys. I don't really <em>need</em> the spot function, but it does come in handy at times, mainly when taking carefully set up pictures with LF, otherwise when doing portraits etc it's just incident. </p>

    <p>That Gossen is TINY! Wow, definately 'pocketable'. I might keep an eye out for a second hand L308, wireless flash triggering would definately be handy, as it is I usually just take the flash trigger off the camera while I'm setting up and use it to trigger my remote strobes manualy while pressing the button on the meter... it would be a luxury to have one box to do all of that, save a lot of fluffing around (not to mention the odd time I forget to connect the trigger back up to the camera! oops...).</p>

    <p>Thanks again guys, appreciate your time.</p>

     

  13. <p>Hi all,</p>

    <p>I've been thinking lately of getting a new light meter. I currently have a good old Lunasix F (the 9v battery model) with the tele/spot attachment. Great meter, can't fault it, battery lasts for ever, spot attachment is great, flash metering is fantastic. It's inispensable, I couldn't live without it, the only thing that's got me wanting to 'upgrade' is that it's quite a bulk unit, especially with the spot attachment. In general, day-to-day life the size isn't an issue, but when I'm out on a day hike, or struggling between the car and a vantage point with LF gear, it does seem to grow a few inches all round and take up valuable space in whichever bag (or coat pocket) I have at the time.</p>

    <p>I'd love to hear your recommendations of an incident, flash & ambient meter that's more pocketable than the Lunasix, any suggestions? Something that's available second hand would be great, I'd realistically only want to spend a hundred or so on it.</p>

    <p>Thanks guys, appreciate the input!</p>

    <p>Cheers,<br>

    Steve</p>

  14. <p>G'day everyone,</p>

    <p>I bought a box of R3 in 4x5 a while back and have been slowly chewing though it, at nearly half an hour of development per sheet, it's not exactly something I've been ripping through! I was just wondering though, has anyone had any success with R3 in Xtol using dilutions other than 1+2 (taken from the Massive Development Chart)? I'd love to be able to just throw some stock Xtol on a sheet and have it done in 10 minutes! </p>

    <p>Has anyone else been playing around with this combination? I've had some decent results with it, but next time I think I'll be going back to a 'standard' emulsion (ie, FP4, TriX etc).</p>

    <p>Thanks for your input.</p>

    <p>Steve</p>

  15. <p>Thanks for the tip Neill. The last time I headed into NSW I went up and out through Tumbarumba... I made sure I went through there, purely because of the name. I'll spread out some maps tonight and have a loot at your suggestions.</p>

    <p>A couple people I've chatted to in the past few days have mentioned being at Byron for sunrise. Being the most Easternly point, it should be at least significant, if not photographic. I'm thinking areas of the Hinterland could well be worth an explore too.</p>

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