nick_m1

Sorry, Custom Negative Holders is Negative Solutions. I don't know why the title came out wrong.

To get to the lens, you had to remove the focus dial. After putting it back together, is the negative spacing still okay? I've had that problem, but was never able to figure it out.

I contacted filmscanusa.com in Nov/Dec 2018, but they said they do not make a Minox holder anymore (at least, for the Plustek 8200 i AI scanner)

 

Custom Negative Holders does however, and they got back to me very quickly. Had the holder in a matter of days.

<p>I just bought an EC about a month ago. What I've read on the internet about it seems rather negative, but the camera is actually very nice. The shutter is <em>very</em> quiet and exposure is excellent. It's also very light, and fits into a pocket easily.</p>

<p>I picked up this same meter today for a few dollars: a Walz Coronet B. If you go to Butkus' website here: http://www.pdfcameramanuals.org/flashes_meters/walz/walz_exposure_meter.htm, the "Coronet B II" is very similar in function, and should help.</p>

<p>Last year I posted the above entry just after my Contax T almost fell apart on me. I have since had it repaired (amazingly) and it is running better than ever. People around me balked at the $200 repair cost, but for me it was very much worth it.</p>

<p>I use my iPhone for photography sometimes. I use MoreLomo (free) and ShakeItPhoto ($2?) which are quite nice (and cheaper than a normal toy camera to boot.) I also sometimes use LightMeter (free) which has been quite accurate, and the Development Chart (not free) from the folks at http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php. The DevChart app is quite useful!</p>

<p>I bought an RX cheap a few months ago, as Contax prices have been coming down recently (probably since many are no longer officially supported repair-wise.)<br>

I normally dislike SLRs, but the RX is very nice. It strikes me as a luxury camera, with controls thoughtfully placed, nice contours and a good heft. With slide film (like Velvia) and Carl Zeiss glass, the results took my breath away - absolutely stunning colors and bokeh.<br>

Operation is quite easy and straight forward. The shutter is not too loud- certainly quieter than the Contax S2 (which was similar to the Pentax K-1000.)<br>

With a zoom or long focal length lens on it, the camera can become quite heavy. I used it with a Sonnar 135/2.8 and my arm became tired after half a roll. Maybe I need to work out more?</p>

<p>I've had a Contax T for a few months, and it's a wonderful camera. The shutter is very precise and quiet, and the manual film advance is nice and smooth. The focus and f-stop rings <em>are</em> small, but not that difficult to work. The +1.5 exposure compensation button is quite useful (and necessary in some situations.) Of course the lens is also a killer.<br>

Unfortunately mine just died recently. The advance stopped working, as well as the shutter. Repairs are difficult if not impossible, and still working replacements are expensive.<br>

The Olympus XA is a fine camera too, however I find the XA's claim to fame is mostly its lens and small size; the build quality leaves a little to be desired. In my experience with four or five of them, the meter in the viewfinder is fragile, and similar to the Contax T, general repairs are quite difficult (if not impossible since there are no parts.) The XA series of cameras are predominantly plastic, so I would not recommend dropping them or banging them around in any way.</p>

<p>The T is a fabulous camera, and has a cult following here in Japan. They still sell for good money; around $350 for a good condition one.<br>

The rangefinder I find more than accurate, and the shutter and manual film advance are smooth and quiet. With zone focus in a somewhat noisy atmosphere the T is an excellent stealth shooter. Trains, cafes, on the street, etc. will muffle the sound easily.<br>

The ISO only goes up to 1000, there is no exposure lock, I think it has a spot meter and there are no parallax correction lines. The quietness and superb lens more than make up for the negatives in my mind.<br>

Loading can be a pain sometimes, but it's not as time consuming as a screwmount Leica. If you've loaded a Rollei 35, you should be okay.</p>

<p>I'm guessing that all the people using Holgas and Dianas might have helped 120s popularity.</p>

<p>I'm a few years too late, but I found what the original poster was looking for (coincidentally I was watching this a few days ago.) This is a photo of Erwin Rommel using a Leica. It is a still shot from the TV series <strong>The World at War</strong> - this episode was about the war in North Africa. Rommel is possibly taking pictures of equipment being unloaded from ships.<br>

A search on YouTube for <strong>The World at War</strong> will bring it up. Sorry, I forgot the actual episode name.<br>

<img src="http://life-electronic.net/pics/Rommel.png" alt="" /></p>

<p>I have an S and have been using it off and on for a few years now. From what I've read, from the S2 Bronica switched to steel gears instead of brass, improving reliability.<br /> Mine functions properly, though I've had trouble with backs (overlapped frames and once the back popped open after a shot.) It wasn't in mint condition when I bought it, so I'm assuming that it was previously owned by a pro and/or heavily used in the past.<br /> I'm not sure about the rest of the world, but here in Japan most repair people will not touch an S. Apparently they are more complex than later models and few people are willing/able to repair them properly.<br /> I have the Nikkor-P 75/2.8 lens on it, which is tack sharp (though I've found that it flares sometimes in night shots.) I previously owned a Hassleblad 500C/M. While the C/M was slightly smaller, lighter and much quieter, I prefer the Bronica S's close-focus ability and focus method. The S doesn't require steps like the C/M, the viewfinder is very bright and I've never had it jam on me (fingers crossed.)</p>

<p>Here in Japan a lot of people recognize Leica. I was talking with a friend in McDonald's a few months ago and an older gentleman at the next table said "Oh! Leica!". The same happened about two weeks ago at a wine bar. Sometimes I hear people talking behind me: "That's a nice camera", etc.<br /> Either they see the "Leica" inscription or they recognize the form (I use old screw-mount ones, not Ms.)<br>

On a funny side-note, a few days ago a man was admiring my Rolleiflex. He said "Ah, classic camera. A Rolex!!"</p>

I used it once, ISO 400, and wasn't very impressed. It seemed muddy to me, and just overall not very interesting. I though Superia was better.

 

Just my $0.02.

 

I live in Japan and yes, Ultra Color 120 format is no longer available (my friend used to shoot it.)

Yes, I haven't lived in Boston for 7 years now. When I last did film photography in Boston I

was a college student and developed my own film.

I'm going to be back home to Boston this summer, probably for about 2 or 3 weeks. In the past I shot only

digital, but I have since switched back to film. I do not want to bring any digital cameras or even a

computer with me this time. I'll be mostly in Boston, Brookline & Cambridge - no car, so I cannot drive

anywhere.

 

A few questions:

 

Should I bring film with me from home or buy it when I'm there? I'll be shooting 35mm mostly and maybe

some 120 (and none of the cheap consumer junk like Superia- I'm talking E100VS, Elite Chrome, etc.) I'm

guessing there are enough places that sell film downtown? (A photo.net search found about 4 places.)

 

After I've shot my film, should I bring it back with me, or have it processed in Boston? I scan all my work,

so I only get negatives or transparencies done. I've been reading about (the lack of) photo processing labs

in Boston. As of now it seems there's Dorian in Arlington as the closest to Boston? How long does it take

on average for just negatives to be done? Can anyone recommend anyone else? Time is an issue since I'll

only be there for a short time.

 

Shall I make sure all my cameras are unloaded before heading on to the airplane? Sometimes I like to take

photos in-flight, but I'm wondering if the TSAs are going to take my cameras apart? (They did on Guam

once; removed the lens, checked the battery compartments, etc.)

 

Am I going to look suspicious with a TLR in my baggage? :^) I'd like to bring one along for medium format

but I'm a little nervous as to what airport security will think ...

 

Any advice is greatly appreciated, thank you!

While you can't take photos in it at all, 33 Gendou (San jyuu san gendou) in Kyoto is really

beautiful, and a place you might want to visit for Buddhist flavor. It's this really long room

with 100 or more Buddhist statues of deities, etc.

 

From what I've heard, you are not allowed to photograph Buddhist statues because monks

believe the photograph takes away part of the statue. I've also heard that sometimes in the

back at the bottom there's a small piece that's like the "soul". Monks remove this piece when

a statue is to be photographed. (I'm not an expert on it though.)

Wow, thanks for the detailed answers :^o

 

I believe I put the negatives in upside-down previous and the scanner said it couldn't find any

images. I guess I could try again ...

Hi.

 

I just scanned this image the other day. 120 film (TMAX 100) taken with a Primoflex IV A (if that matters)

scanned with a Canoscan 8600F.

 

I have made a 100% crop of an area. What are those wavy lines? I've found them in more than one image

I've scanned. Are they from the developing process? Is the film not laying flat on the scanner?<div></div>

How about a Retina 1a? It has nothing electronic at all. I got one here in Japan for about $75,

so they should be cheaper in the U.S. (if that's where you are.)

 

With the Sunny 16 rule and some Ilford Delta 100 I've had results I was extremely pleased

with.

 

I share your feelings of wanting to avoid certain batteries and things to make your camera

future proof. That's why I'm slowly shedding my digital cameras and going back to film.

There's a camera fair going on here in Nagoya right now, until Wednesday the 3rd? Plenty of

old Nikon Ss and Leicas for sale (if you've got the yen.)

 

My condolences to the above poster for being in Toyota city.

I just bought about 10 rolls of Kodachrome 64 a few weeks ago (here in Japan.) It's good until

the end of this year I believe, but the one place in Japan that still does K-14 is stopping on

12/20. I'm glad to learn that it can still be done back home in the U.S.

<p>I am a photographer and an artist. I went to school and studied graphic design &

illustration. I do photography for myself, not for anyone else. If other people like my

photos, that's great. If not, well too bad for them. In my free time I draw, and in the past

I've done some book covers and logos for companies.</p>

 

<p>In art school I had some real jerk teachers, honestly. If you didn't do things exactly as

they said, or used a technique they didn't like, they wouldn't give you a second look. If you

sucked up to them or even worse copied them, they loved you to death. When I saw some

of their portfolios I really wasn't impressed (not ALL my teachers were like that- a lot were

really cool.)</p>

 

<p>As for photographers critiquing my work, I won't take anyone seriously until I've seen

some of their work. Any doofus can say whatever they want, but I've got to have proof that

they know what they're doing & talking about or understand me, otherwise what they say

just goes in one ear and out the other. For example being a camera collector and being a

photographer can be totally different things.</p>

My greatest disappointment was the Nikon D1x. I waited years for the price to go below

$1000, and when I finally got my hands on one, I found out that it's a battery-eater and

photo quality didn't really knock my socks off. The greatest disappointment of that camera

was hot pixels on long exposures :^(

 

My greatest surprise was my Kodak Retina 1a. I found out that it didn't have a light meter,

and didn't have a range finder, which honestly worried me. I had worked with, or I should

really say wrestled with, a Rollei 35 in the past and so a guesstimate focusing system was

the last thing I wanted to be fooling with again. The Retina's focus system is really easy,

and after I ran some Ilford Delta 100 through it the photos really blew me away. I paid

?7000 for it (about $60?) and it's in excellent condition - definitely one of my favorite

cameras, and one of the first I reach for when going out.