starvy
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Posts posted by starvy
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<p>What an interesting looking and capable lens!</p>
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<p>What detail and contrast in these pictures! I wish I had purchased a Kiev 60 rather than the Haselbladski, which broke after two months!</p>
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<p>Hello Tamara, I hope you are able to find all the information you require within these pages.</p>
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<p>They are much better now than my G1 where the noise was actually rather horrid. It died after six months in use. That was £60 wasted. When I can afford to I will probably get another G series body, maybe the G3.</p>
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<p>Lovely capable camera. Sorry but I have to disagree with you with regards to the lesser ones. Everyone always told me that the Tessar or its Sneidar equivalents are lovely too, my Xenar was no were near as sharp as the Tessar. So I sold it. If and when I can afrod one I shall definitely buy a Planar version. These are lovely images.</p>
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<p>I am sorry that you are leaving. We have interacted in the past and you have graced these forums with your breadth of knowledge. I too have hardly been around over the last year. The classic camera forum had been my favourite but I found some of the other forums to be not a vibrant, and the wedding forum to be downright nasty, which was why I did not bother renewing my subscription when it finally ran out.<br>
Your legacy would always remain and I hope you enjoy whatever you do away from here. I also hope that you enjoy your photography.</p>
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<p>What a lovely camera and fine pictures from you. Much happiness to your daughter and her husband.</p>
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I recently switched to full frame with a ten year old Canon 5d classic. I am using manual focus Olympus and other lenses with a focus
confirmation adapter. Lex is on the money when he talks about focusing points along the edges being weaker in low light but not making
much difference in good light. For me, choosing the right lens was key factor full length portraits. I was shooting one person full lengths
and used a 50mm lens in portrait orientation, focused on the eye and shot around f4 using a 1.8 lens. The eyes were tack sharp and the
rest of the body was acceptable.
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<p>I have the LTM version and it worked fine on my Bessa R.</p>
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<p>Very interesting work. Thank for sharing the link.</p>
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<p>If your budget can stretch to it, get an Olympus OM4 Ti, a later version and 55 1.2 or the 50 1.2. If looking for something a bit cheaper, just an OM4 and the 50mm 1.4.</p>
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<p>Are they using HSS which is more a burst than the full flash? It will damage the flash in the long run.</p>
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<p>I am really sorry that you had this accident. As others have said above, your health is more precious than valuables. I wonder if you have heard of drying electroic items in rice? It does work with some phones as long as the damage is not too severe and the phone had not been switched on. In the future, if a phone falls in a pool of water, do not attempt to switch it on, just leave it covered in uncooked rice for a couple of days. This should be done in addition to any driers you may use. </p>
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<p>Jos, that is very kind of you indeed. I shall email you my email address via the personal email system here.</p>
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<p>My 5D Mark 1 arrives on the 27th or 28th of this month. I am going away for a couple of days in the early hours of the 29th March and would be using the camera for a job. While I will have my second camera with me, an old Sony A450, I would need to do a bit of postprocessing of the Canon RAW files while away and show it to the client. I have never worked with a Canon DSLR RAW file although I did use a compact Canon S30 exclusively on RAW from 2001 to 2007.<br>
I was wondering if someone may allow me to use one of their RAW files from a 5D to have a private play with. It would not get shown anywhere but I would just like to have an image that I could use in Lightroom (version 1.4) and CS2 in preparation of what I need to use for my trip.<br>
Many thanks. </p>
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<p>This is just a thought. As I have bought and used a lot of used gear over the years, the first thing I do when purchasing a new old camera is to give it a thorough exterior clean. I also clean the flash hotshoe contact with a soft-bristled toothbrush and pencil eraser. My Sony A450 and a very battered Panasonic G1 had grimy contacts and worked fine after my cheap Chinese trigger (I think I bought the cheapest set from Amazon!) would not fire.<br>
So that in addition to what has been suggested by Jos and William.</p>
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<p>Use a digital camera, however, use a really old, slow and small memory card that would only allow you no more than 20 images for your camera. Now spend your hour filling that card. You are allowed no more!<br>
Everything folks have said above is very useful. For my pro corporate sets or actors headshots I work to a ratio of one keeper to three images. It has taken me a whole year to get there since starting with portraits but I still envy the chaps who can do it with one exposure and one keeper!<br>
Don't give up.</p>
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<p>I so wish that the moderator, after removing the image had left a link for us to see exactly what the question was about.</p>
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<p>Mike, they are both lovely examples!</p>
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<p>Hi Michael, thanks but the above really does not work for me sadly!</p>
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Hi Michael,
Thanks for that. The second shot is mine and is only mentioned to point out that I have not done anything like the first one before!
Thanks.
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<p>Stephen, thanks for that. Useful tip. I may try that personally on a test portrait as a technique.<br>
The first image is way over done for general photography sites and for my taste, but fits in very well with the taste of the specialist model portrait site where it has won a 'front page image' accolade. </p>
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<p>I shoot corporate portraits and headshots for actors and models. I shoot with an old crop sensor DSLR with 14MP. I would love to shoot medium format. I was using a Kiev medium format camera up until last year for some of the portraits until the cheapest film lab stopped processing film :(<br>
The viewfinder is important for portraits but the most important part for me is to intimately know every aspect of my camera as well as the lenses I use for portraits. This only comes from shooting. I seriously started shooting portraits, firstly in studio and then outdoors in December 2013. I did 12 shoots with models before going pro. I am still learning every day. I read a lot in forums like these as well as watching youtube videos for technique. But, I also practise something as soon as I like a particular lighting setup. <br>
My advice would be, whatever you are shooting with, get yourself very well acquainted with the equipment.</p>
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<p>I am looking to do a shoot with a model friend that aims to have the eyes as bright as the picture in the link below and be the most prominent part of the portrait. Although, I will retouch my model's skin as she does not have freckles, I have never shot an image like this and wondered if one needs to meter for the eyes in an image like this?<br>
I am assuming that in the above image the eyes were sharpened in Photoshop or perhaps had levels adjusted using a mask? <br>
The only portrait of mine where the model had specifically requested the eyes to be centre piece in the past was this<br>
<br />Now of course this is not a particularly 'dramatic eye' portrait and the way I achieved the above was to ensure that the reflector was throwing as much light into the eyes as possible. It was a particularly overcast day so no need to worry about shadows. I also added a selected layer of light to darken the areas outside of her face to accentuate the gaze towards her eyes.<br>
I don't want to do too much work in Photoshop and want to get as much of it right in camera, if possible. For portrait work I shoot with an old crop sensor Sony A450. Mostly shoot with the plastic Sony 85mm 2.8 which gets to 127mm in my camera. When I am looking for ultra sharpness and even better Bokeh, I use an old OM mount Zuiko 100mm 2.8 lens set to f4.<br>
Any helpful suggestion to emulate the first photograph would be very much appreciated.</p>
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