dweezil

<p>What ever the improvements where, they where nullified by the fact that the redesign did not work as intended and stopped people from doing what ever it was they wanted to do at PN. There is no need to put the blame on the developer or any other single person, the biggest mistake was that the go ahead was given on software that obviously was not working as it should. </p>

<p>Ditch the holga and get a better medium format camera. Too many room for f***-up's with these kind of cameras. First get some shots using some decent camera and develop these. When you get that going, you can add the intricacies of a holga or other lomo graphy cameras. </p>

 

<p>Black and White conversion in Darktable using a Agfa 200x style. tweaked the exposure a bit and cloned out the lettering on the umbrella. and increased the grain a little. I would have done everything in Darktable but It was rendered a bit too big so I rescaled it in Gimp. </p><div></div>

<p>Black and White conversion in Darktable using a Agfa 200x style. tweaked the exposure a bit and cloned out the lettering on the umbrella. and increased the grain a little.</p>

<p>Thank you for your insights, patience qnd the willingness to share them. Photo net will not be the same.</p>

 

<p>reflection in a spherical lamp</p><div></div>

<p>Guy's really! The F80, while being able to use newer lenses is no real substitue for the F100. I've used both and there is no comparing.<br>

For AF the F100 is a beast where the F80 is a snail. Even the F4 focuses faster. As for batteries, the F80 uses the expensive cr123 batteries or you sould get it with a battery grip. I do not know where you get it from that the F100 is a battery hog but mine is doing fine for months, and any sensible person should use using rechargeable batteries by now. <br>

As for cost, yes the F100 is a bit more expensive but for around 250 € you should be able to get one that is in great shape.</p>

 

<p>In Europe repairs and camera's are typically more expensive than they are in the US. Since I recently have been looking for a 2nd hand D700/D3 I know prices for a second hand D700 go from around 750 to 1000 €. Depending on the state, age and wether it comes with a grip or not and other accessories are part of it. <br>

So it seems that you are on or near the tipping point to get a new second hand instead of the repair.</p>

<p>last week I posted my old office location. Today a picture of the office location for the new job. It's a stich of 11 photo's made with my "new" D3 it has been resized for the forum but the full size picture is here:<br>

<a href="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12226889/DRJ_1370%20-%20DRJ_1382.jpg">https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12226889/DRJ_1370%20-%20DRJ_1382.jpg</a></p><div></div>

<p>The Uset solar scope</p><div></div>

<p>I just changed jobs but for the previous one I was working 1 day a week at the Royal observatory in Brussels. </p><div></div>

<p>Using a Tokina ATX 124 12-24 mm lens on a D3 llows you to use it down to 17 mm without too much vignetting even if it is a DX lens. This was @16 mm so I needed a bit of cropping</p><div></div>

<p>first high ISO shot with the D3: The lighting was very bad. </p><div></div>

<p>The way I see it is the following; Nikon warranties these shutters to 300k actuations. That means that they are confident the these can make it on a regular base to that much without too many breaking before that and without it costing them too much on free repairs and damage to their image. So if you make it to there it does what it said.<br>

Statistically you probably have about 5 to 10% fail before that; somewhere between 150K and 250K. About 50% will fail around 300K and the rest over that. <br>

Given that mine is at almost 160K I still have about half of the shutters life to go. <br>

That gives me more than enough time to enjoy it and decide what to do when that day comes. We'll cross that bridge when we get to it. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Shun, <br>

I've uploded this shot at the Camera shutter count website and this is wat came back:<br>

157881.<br>

The owner posted it on 2ndhand.be as having 157000 clicks. <br>

</p>

<p>Ok I bit the bullet today, and I went to take a look at the camera; <br>

apart from some "brassing" on the eyepiece shutter lever on the camera is more or less pristine(previous owner wears glasses). <br>

Needles to say GAS gotthe betterhand of me so I'm 850€ poorer and a D3 richer. Thanks everybody for the information. <br>

B.T.W in the pictures some early shots of an unwilling model </p><div></div>

<p>just to clarify some things: <br>

I know the D3 is a beast compared to a d80, i thing i cn handle that, I have an F4S, F100 and if that still makes you doubt I have a Kiev 6C which makes the D3 come over as a feather weight.<br /><br /><br>

i've tried any thing on the D80 and it doesn't help; reset, use the auto programs instead of A; even with flash it still doesn't seem to be right.<br>

I know that a D700 would be a better fit for me but thi one is a bit cheaper than any d700 I can find.<br>

i want to move to FX as most of the good lenses I have are full frame anyway as a left over from my film days</p>

 

<p>I have the possibility to buy a used D3 for a reasonable price( 800- 900 € ).<br>

I currently have a D80 and I don't like it any more as most of the stuff I do is low light like concerts and I don't seem to be able to get good shots lately. <br>

I have a 28-70 AF-S 2.8 and a 50 1.8 so lens wise I'm good. Does it still make sense to get a D3 or D700 at this point? I don't think I need the high resolution from a D600 or 800 and they are out of my reach financially at the moment. </p>

<p>I'm 18 and have 25 years experience at it. According to my wife I'm 12 at a good day, 6 at my worst ;-)<br>

Just kidding I'm 43 and started photographing at 13 or 14 with a Zenit E that I got from an uncle, after that a f301, F65, D70, Kiev 6C, F4, F100, an old yashica, a canonet, F801s, a canon T50, D80 and an F80.<br>

and more glass than a dairy factory has milkbottles. </p>

<p>get some 5 or 10 cc syringes, when you're using rodinal a common quantity is 1+25 so 2 ml or cc for 500ml or 1/2 l of developer.<br>

these syringes make it much more easy to measure the right amount. And you can use them several months over so cost won't be an issue</p>

 

<p>In production Ilford fp4 and HP5 mostly because they're convenient and still easily available.<br>

Out of production APX100 for 35mm and not sure about the status arcos 100 but I really like it for 120 </p>

<p>I like the punchier look. The pictures seem sharper.</p>

 

<p>how about a bunch of Nikon F80's they are plenty, cheap, reliable, and can use even the newest nikon lenses.<br>

Granted they are not manual only but you won't have any metering or battery trouble.</p>

 

<p>The difference between the tair 33 and the tair 3s is that the the 33 is the medium format version. According to this: <a href=" they share the same optical formula but the 33 has a bigger image circkle. <br />All things considered if you have both a pentacon 6/ kiev and an M42 you would be best of with the tair 33 and a pentacon 6 to M42 adaptor . </p>

<p>I have the pentacon 300mm F4 in kiev/pentacon6 mount and i may be wrong but i think this one has a similar formula as the meyer orestegor if this is the case than this is more or less what pictures with it look like<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8346004-md.jpg" alt="" width="680" height="680" /></p>