christian_harkness

<p>I just read this statement "...Today, We have a great chance to review <strong>Canon PowerShot G12</strong>, amazing <strong>waterproof digital camera</strong>..." here:<br>

http://www.cameradigitalwaterproof.net/waterproof-digital-camera-reviews-canon-powershot-g12/<br>

and have absolutely no idea as to what they are talking about, since as far as I know there is no such thing as a waterproof G12. If there is, I sure would love to have one.<br>

Why would they write that?<br>

<br />Thanks,</p>

<p>christian</p>

<p>I am having somewhat the same difficulty. Found out that one can create a fine slideshow in Bridge, however when I upload it to my server it does not work. I suspect that it has some capital letters in it, and I can't figure out a way to make it all lower case.</p>

<p>Does anybody have any solution or idea?</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

<p>christian</p>

Many thanks Evan - I certainly will try that - yes, I obviously have problems with my Holga negs too.

I have an Epson Perfection 4490 scanner. Scanning b&w negatives that have a black background, with a person in

the center [ for example] - my preview will not give me the whole 35mm negative or 120 negative, but instead only the

center 'properly expoosed' portion of the neg.

 

Is there any way to 'force' the scanner to scan the entire negative?

 

Many thanks for any help/advice!<div></div>

My question is this. If some of the photographers who are published in FOCUS magazine paid for the publication of their work, doesn�t this then become advertising instead of editorial content?

Now, I � the reader, feel mislead when that fact is not made clear, and I think it damages the credibility of all those whose work appears in the magazine.

I gathered this information from the canson.de web site:

 

100% cotton and manufactured on a cylinder mould, an acid-free paper with alkali reserve, with four fringed edges. For drawing, art publishing, and prints.

 

The prints I saw did not appear to be on ﾓvellumﾔ paper, yet they were described as being printed on "vélin d'Arches."

 

What really interests me about all this is the fact that they were gorgeous Iris [ink jet prints] on ﾑplainﾒ Arches paper.

Does anybody know what "vélin d'Arches" is? I thought I was familiar with all

the Arches papers, but this one is a new one on me, although a Google search

shows that it is famous and has been around for a long time.

 

I read that a photographer in whom I am interested [Eric Nehr - galerie anne

barrault] prints his photographs as Iris prints on ﾔvélin d'Arches." I saw his

work at Art Basel/Miami Beach last year and was extremely impressed with the

presentation of the work.

 

I assume the paper is an Arches watercolor or printmaking paper.

Thanks Mike - of course, the problem is, mine does not want to do that, and so far I have only been able to properly feed Epson Enhanced Matte that way.

 

I do have a question - do you select 'Maual-Roll' as the manual says, or do you select 'Manual-Sheet?'

Sure there is a front loading option. See page 25 of the manual and the paragraph "Loading Thick Media in the Front Path."

Hi Paul - yes, I understand that, but shouldn't the setting for 'loading thick media in the front path' call for the manual sheet setting and not the manual roll setting.

 

Either way, it does not matter that much to me since I simple am NOT able to load thick media in the front path.

Hi - I have not been able to get an satisfactory answer from Epson to the

following question. Do any of you have an insight into this problem?

 

"Loading Media in the Front Path. The only media I have been able to

successfully load is Epson Enhanced Matte Paper, anything else, for example

Arches cover, 90 lb will be �kicked out.�

 

I just tried to load some Enhanced Matte with a smaller, regular sheet of

paper fastened/glued in the middle of it, it was also kicked out.

 

Since the Enhanced Matte feeds and prints correctly, I assume that I am

following the instructions correctly.

 

By the way, page, # 8 of the manual states ��select Manual � Roll as the

source�� I assume it should be �Manual � Sheet�. However, neither setting

works with any thick media."

Check out this link:

 

http://www.rippedsheets.com/inkjet/101102.ip.html

Hi Oliver, I don?t quite agree that any paper will do. I used some watercolor paper a while ago, I think it was Stonhenge ? not sure though ? and the VanDyke image would almost totally bleach out during and after processing.

I think I posted a question about this on this forum, and the consensus seemed to be that the sensitizing solution was reacting with some chemicals in the paper.

I've used Arches 90 lb cold press with excellent results.

Hi Colm, sorry I don?t have any links. I have NEVER heard anybody say that one can?t use 35mm negs. I consider that a nonsense statement, of course you can. I do imagine that the print will look a bit different than it would from a larger neg. ? just as it would on regular paper.

Thanks so very much for all your answers - fantastic. Dean, I did prior to posting. They don't know.

 

Jeff - wowo, super, you saw that Lowell responded & I just sent him an e-mail.

 

Again, a million thanks!

The film development times with ?Premium Arista Film Developer? at 1:9

are the same as those for Kodak D 76.

 

Can I assume that diluting the Arista developer to 1:18 will let me

use the same times as those called for when using Kodak D76 1:1.

 

Many thanks,

 

christian

Many thanks Anne!

Is bromoil bleach a special bleach, or can bleach used for - let�s say

- sepia toning, be used in the bromoil process?

 

Many thanks!

Another good reference source is �Printmaking in The Sun� by Dan Welden and Pauline Muir

I know you did not ask for this, but lith printing them might be a way.

Hi Damon - here is one of my average VD prints. Its about 6x9 inches on Arches cp.<div></div>

Sounds reasonable. I use the chemistry from Photographers Forumlary & basically never had any failures, except with the paper. I am not particularly neat or orderly - so, don't give up!!!

If you have the hardware/software you might try making a digital internegative for Cyanotype printing - then it is much easier to change the negative's contrast.

Damon, I only have experience with Van Dyke exposed by sunlight, and generally have no problems. I used tap water to mix my chemistry, but then, tap water can vary so widely - one never knows. I did have problems using different kinds of paper though. My favorite/standard is Arches cp. I use it for Van Dykes, Cyanotypes, and printmaking, but because of its rough texture, not everybody likes it. <P>

 

In short the one thing I would advise is try different papers, also, if possible, try the sun.