marco_landini

<p>Chris, I'm sure there is no sharpening applied to the picture I posted, but only resized and converted to jpg. I would be very happy to post my picture at the highest resolution allowed on photonet. If it was possible, I would be happy to post the nikon nefs, so you can evaluate my pics at their original size with all the informations. Can you suggest me how to do it ? Photonet says, before confirming to post, that we can upload an image not bigger than 100kb, so I posted that size.</p>

<p>Chris, in Capture nx2 I turned off any sharpening. When I turned off the sharpening, I saw a very consisten decrease of the sharpening effect, as the in camera sharpening was +3. Now, in these picture I have pubblished, the sharpness is well less than before. So, I guess in these picures there's no sharpening at all. Isn't it ?</p>

 

<p>At the time of the capture, I had these in camera settings : color space Adobe rgb. Image control standard. White balance auto. Contrast 0. Saturation 0. Sharpness +3 ( just so see if the pic is in focus at the lcd screen). Anyway, in the pictures I posted here are I have turned all the image controls and all the in camera settings off by nx2. Just resized the images and then converted to jpg to be posted here. I guss this way I have posted the linear untweaked original image captured by the camera sensor. The same as if I had a nef to tif conversion using a non nikon raw converter, that ignores all the in camera setting and keeps the image free from any tweaking. So, any setting is turned off and is negligible in image evaluation. I would like to post the original nef file as it comes from nx2 with all the settings turned off, a big original image to be evaluated by you, but I don't know how to do it, because photonet accepts only files smaller than 100kb.</p>

<p>and also this pic from Thailand looks good in my opinion.<br>

Can you please tell me your comments and suggestions not to get the strang cartoonish effect of the previous pics ? Thank you very much. Marco</p>

<p>One more good pic</p>

<p>And now, some pics that I like. The look much more natural than the previous ones</p>

<p>this from Marrakech</p>

<p>again...</p>

<p>here we go...</p>

<p>another one</p>

<p>Sorry, the files are only reduced and converted to be posted here.</p>

<p>Hi.<br>

I would like your comments and suggestions about this issue I notice in my pics. These pics are all taken with Tamron 17-50 2.8 ( non VR version) on my Nikon D90. These are all Nef unconverted images, coming from capture nx2. No image control, no rapid correction, no active d-light checked. So, they are all original RAW images without any modification, all linear files as they come from the camera sensor.<br>

I post some of these "strange" images. In my opinion they look very "cartoonish". I mean the shape of some subjects, expecialy on the background, look very unnatural. Expecialy the walls, the rocks, they look fake, like a cartoon. I mean about the shape and details of these subjects, ans sometimes also the colors look fake. In some other pictures I can't notice this issue. I' ve noticed the problem on most pics taken at the wide end ( 17) more then at the long end (50).<br>

These are the unnatural nef's pics.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Actualy there is a version of Nik Color Efx that works in Capture NX on NEF files</p>

<p>Hello. I need your opinions about how to emulate the film-like look.<br />Is it better to use the Alien Skin Exposure plug-in in Ps on the converted rgb file, or to use Nik Color efx directly on the raw file in Capture NX2 space? My question is double : which one of these plug-ins can emulate better the look of film. Secondly, in which space is it better to do this emulation : in capture NX2 to the raw file before conversion, or in PS after the raw to rgb conversion. I know alien skin is only available for PS, so no way to use alien skin on capture nx2...</p>

<p>Hi. Has anybody tryied the vsco film or tlr the light's right program to emulate film ? I' ve heard about them and could be interesting, as they work on raw files. Can anybody share his experience ? Bye.</p>

<p>Hi, I need suggestions for capture sharpening. I shoot Raw (Nef) with my Nikon D90. I convert the Nef to Tif with capture nx2. Then, I do all the editing in ps cs5. Which is the best tool to recover the sharpness loss becuse of the anti-aliasing filter of D90 ? Is it better to : 1) set the capture sharpening in capture nx2 in the sharpening mask window, during the nef to tif conversion. I' ve heard for D90 would be 40/4/4. 2) Not do any kind of sharpening in raw to tiff conversion in capture nx2. And do the capture sharpening only on ps at the final stage of the editing. 2a) smart sharpen ( set at 100,radius 1) . 2b) focus magic ( set at 1-2 max). 2c) Photokit<br>

Which one of these ways you suggest me ? I know every picture would like to be treated in a specific way, but I would like to apply only one of these techniques to all my pics, just to conpensate in a standard way the loss of sharpness of the anti-aliasing filter, and nothing more. Thank you</p>

 

<p>Hi. I got a Nikon d90, I shoot raw ( nef), and I want to emulate the look of my favourite film emulsions : velvia 50, kodachrome 64, tri-x, t-max 100. I know somewhere on the web is possible to download some picture controls that emulate films, and is possible to upload these settings on capture nx2. In alternative, the other way to emulate film could be : using capture nx2 only to convert the nef to rgb tiff, whitout any tweaking in capture nx2 ( all picture controls set to 0, no curve adjustments, ecc..), then open the converted tiff in ps, and apply the film emulating curve using alien skin plug-in. Which one of these 2 ways do you think would be better ? Some says that the best results are achieved doing the most editing to the raw before conversion ( this means on capture nx). But I find doing editing on ps, with those useful plugins, is more simple. I wait for your kind suggestions. Thanks, Marco.</p>

<p>Hi. I' m thinking about this topic. I' ve always taken my landscapes, scenaries and streets photographs using the hyperfocal tecnique. My reasons for this : in landscapes, to be able to obtain the greatest depth of field and the most details in focus. In street photography to obtain the most thing in focus in a easy and safe way, rather than aestetic aspects. But the opposite situation, selective focus, could be interesting too : the selective focus can concentrate the attention in a certain zone of depth, so it coud enhance the feeling of depth and the 3d look, despite the loss of right focused details at all distances. What do you think ?</p>

<p>Thank you Wouter !<br />In general, as I own both, do you guys think is better to do capture sharpening on Capture NX2 during the conversion, or in photoshop with photokit sharpener ?</p>

<p>Wouter, thank you very much for your response. Actually, I' m very new to digital photography and I have to be modest. I looked at you pictures and I like them very much, both in technique and artistic inspiration. I have to learn a lot...So, I'm just trying to find the results I like, experimenting with editing programs and plugins. And, as you said, my workflow seems to be too complicated and , consequently, my pictures often come up too edited and unnatural. All I wish is to "give life" to my raw files, as of course they come out of the camera flat and dull. I just want to give to my raws the right natural feeling, just adding the necessary amount of sharpness lost because of the anti aliasing filter, and adding the contrast and vibrance. I think my workflow is an overkill, surely because of my inexperience, and I tend to add way too much tweaking, and this ruins the picture. Please, can you describe your tipical workflow step by step, from raw to master tiff, so I can take it as exemple ? This will be usefull for me to learn. Your help will be very much appreciated.</p>

<p>Hi. I got some troubles about sharpening. I think is the hardest part of my workflow, in order to obtain natural and pleasing looking images. This is my route : raw shoot. capture nx2 for raw to tiff conversion : all picture controls to 0, only curves adjustment. Then, on ps I do all the editings. As final step on ps, I do the capture sharpening to compensate the anti aliasing filter of d90 : I do this step using focus magic at 2, or photokit sharpener input sharpening. Then I save the tiff as a master. If I want to print the image, I resize and add output sharpening for the printer at the print dimension I resized the image to by photokit. If I want to post the picture on internet, I add output sharpening for web at the resized dimension of the image. I think this a correct route, but I find my images to be way too edited, expecialy about sharpness, quite unnatural at my eyes. I would ask you opinion about the crucial step of capture sharpening. Do you think it' s better to apply capture sharpening directly to the raw file on capture nx2 before raw to rgb conversion, instead of doing it at the converted rgb file on ps, by focus magic or pk sharpener ?<br />I read that if you disable sharpness in picture control by putting it to zero (in camera or in NX2, no difference) you loose the benefit of being able to reverse mathematically some of the effect of the anti aliasing filter whose job it is to defocus/spread light around neighbouring pixels on the sensor. And restore original sharpeness directly to the raw file on capture nx or in camera picture control could be easier and with less artifacts than doing this operation aplling sharpeness on ps to the converted rgb file. What do think in your experience ?</p>

<p>I got a lot of slides that I want to be digitalized just for my digital archive. And few ( 30 a-year ) "special" slide shots that I want to be printed at hi quality. I must admit I prefere the film look, film gives to my eyes a tipical feeling of depth and realism that I cannot feel looking at dslr prints ( at least at MY prints... ). So, I would like to have those 30 a year slides scanned at the most possible quality at a right price. Here in Italy, they asked me something as 50 euros to scan a 35mm slide, by Imacon virtual drum, to produce a 70 MB TIFF ( the same dimension of a tiff from d90 converted raw. I need this file dimension to post process the slide on ps at 16 bit and to print it at 13x9) . So, I would ask you if I can send those 30 frames to a professional lab out of Italy, with the same imacon and better prices, maybe in Europe. Or the "pro service" offered by Scancafe would be as good.</p>

<p>Hi. I have a lot of slides, velvia 50 and e100gx, and I would like to scan them with the best possible quality, in order to produce a digital file to be printed at abour 13X9" at 254 ppi print resolution ( contone printer). 3 years ago I started shooting digital, Nikon D90. I would ask you a suggestion about the scanning service and equipment to obtain those great scans, at least to produce the same quality as a D90 raw file. The lab I send my digital files to be printed has an Imacon virtual drum scanner. I guess the quality is great, but the price per scan is very high. The alternative idea is to send my slides frames to scancafe in India, the prices seem to be very interesting. For 35 mm slides, in their special service line, they can make 4000 dpi scans with their Noritsu virtual drum. How can these scanner compare to imacon scans ? And , in the end, how do these 2 scanning solutions compare to 12 mpxls raw files in order to print a 13"x9" ? Thanks, bye. Marco</p>

<p>I use to do capture sharpenign with focus magic or photokit. Output sharpening with photokit. All the 2 actions at the final stages of the editing.<br />About tone and contrast corrections in capture nx and photoshop : if I do curve corrections, adjusting contrast and saturation yet on capture nx, and then, with alien skin or silver efex in ps I will add a second curve and tone adjustement...So, I had better not to adjust curves at all in capture nx, and let all the work to photoshop plugins only ?</p>

<p>I love this picture. Taken by d90, 50 1.8 af-d. In capture nx2 I left the same sharpness value as was set in camera (+4), and no sharpening in ps. I know the best way is to set to 0 the sharpenss in raw conversion, ad add shapness only in the final stages of editing in photoshop ( capture and output sharpening). But I have to say I like this result, with on camera shapening on and kept on in raw to tiff conversion.<br>

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