teitur_ardal_rosengren

<p>Maybe thats because youre a store. Im still waiting for my 8x10 back that I ordered in Deceber 08. He doesnt answer my emails. And I recently got a message that he had blocked my email. Im only 23 years old and I dont make much money. But I took some of my saings and payed him in avance for the piece and the shipping something like $370. And now hes not answering my emails. I have to reach him by phone but I cant find his phone number anywhere.. Should I be worried or is this normal?<br /> <br /> <br /> Best regards<br /> Teitur</p>

<p>So what is the formula?<br /> How do you mix it?</p>

<p>Hi everyone<br /> <br /> I am trying to find a Deardorff 8x10 back. Do anyone have any suggestions to where I could find one for sale?<br /> I have been looking on ebay for a while but I cant find any.<br /> <br /> Best regards<br /> Teitur Ardal</p>

any lens shutter hasseblad 500 series camera is awesome, you have to try it.

 

leica M6 with summicron 35 and 50 is also awesome and you have to try it.

 

Those two

I have one from 93, made in germany, 35mm. Its a vary nice lens.

Very compact and easy to use.

anybody who thinks the m shutter is loud dont know what they are talking about.

they've simply browsed the web too much.

 

The most quiet camera I have is a rolleiflex 2.8c & f. they are really quiet and stealthy in a nice way.

I would go with delta 3200 in speeds of 1000 - 1600.

If the lightning shows to be too weak you can always push further, way further!

 

 

TEITUR

I feel you Kari!

 

Im trying to find an excelent MF enlarger in Tokyo.

There are some but most of it is just fuji and lucky enlargers..

 

I WANT A FOCOMAT 2C!!!

I just went to see Daido's exhibition here in Tokyo the other week,

Big disapointment,

 

He hasnt done anything remarkable since the 60-70's

 

 

If you like his look try pushing trix to 1600 with a 24x１８ frame camera.

 

 

BIG disapointment.

in my 35m summicron from 1993, I have the exact same "mark" or "bubble" if you will. its very very small, and almost in the exact center of the lens.

it has never shown in any of my pictures, and I dont really care, but it looks very much like the dot in your picture.. I always thought it was some kind of eh dirt or wierd fungus, but since it has never changed in size I just never gave it any more thought...

 

I tried to take a picture to post here but it wouldnt show..

 

Best!

 

TEITUR

I use powder chemicals, and I definitely think its worth an extra 3 minutes mixing them instead of paying more than double the price of the same chemical in liquid form.

 

I go to a rental darkroom a lot, and the guy who has it always complain about the stagering prices on ilford chemicals (liquid), and when I asked him why he doesnt use powder instead he told me he thought it was to much of a hassle mixing.

 

Dont be like the old man in the darkroom =) If youre the guy who wants to keep the prices down, use powder, if you dont care about price use liquid.

 

TEITUR

this negative is not properly developed. as you will see on it if you have a look there are undeveloped parts, dots and spots, that are light in colour, these are appearing dark on the print.

I have the same problem, but not on all my negs.

 

I use the same fix a lot of times.

I wash the negs in plane crane water and then the final wash is done in fuji driwell. sometimes this works fine and sometimes I get these really nasty little dots.

I use hasseblad, rolleiflex 2.8F planar and 2.8c schneider. and also 35mm a leica m6.

 

I fell a closer bond in the way I take picture with my leica and rollei than with the hasseblad. its kind of stealthy and does literally make no more noise than the lensshutter, and rather than pointing the camera at you object, almost like an opponent with hasseblad, you kind of lurk with your rollei. I dont know this is just my feeling.

 

 

though, to reload film with rollei takes longer than with a hasselblad I think it is really fun to use!

 

one thing i dont like with the rollei is the way you alter shutter speed and apperture size, you have to small wheels on each side of the view lens, and these can be sticky on old cameras and theyre kind of small and yeah they look cool but theyre not very convienient at all..

 

anyway rolleiflex is a really fun camera to work with.

try it out!

 

TEITUR

john kelly, who cares about what some famous cameraman did?

 

Richard Francisco, buy the lens used, and sell the lens used, that way you can use it without it costing you a dime!

 

best regards

count the mirrors...

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out of a functional point of view I would ad thumbnails to the picture viewer.

I have a trouble with loading my 135 films to the reel. When I get to the end of

the film strip the film is curled up really hard which makes it hard to roll it

on the reel.

 

I store my 135 film in a refrigerator, and take it out just before I develop it.

 

 

Maybe you feel this is a trivial question to post on this forum, but its just a

pain in the neck.. So if you have any advice, I will be really glad.

 

THANK YOU!

 

TEITUR

very cool!

its a very plain picture, yet erotic in a funny way.

please dont hate me for asking this and only reply if you feel like it but view finders, .72 and .85 what are the differences? ive only used .72...

 

is the .85 more narrow? or? whats the difference?

 

best regards

Hi,

 

Yesterday I noticed something very unpleassant with my M6, the built in light

meter gave no responce what so ever..

 

Have any of you experienced or heard of the built in meter dying on people like

this before?

 

 

TEITUR<div></div>