pankaj purohit

<p>Peter, After capturing thousands of shots on films, I just lost just 4 frames due to metal detector passing, from my last trip when I shot 5 rolls. Before that I don't remember if I lost any frame from my negatives, even on my last to last trip I clicked way overexpose my negative film accidentally (When I checked meter the bars were full to overexposure side and may be beyond +3 EV or more) when my camera was on manual and settings were for the low lights and the time when I shot was a bright sunny, were recovered very nicely, no one can say that those were overexposed. Whenever I fill the roll in camera, I am sure that all the 36 exposures will come-out perfectly, even if I over or under-expose those. whenever I shoot for printing whole roll, than I find the negative film is still best and results are faster than any other medium if you have better tuning with your lab and I have couple of labs in my town nice with results. Because I just shoot and drop the rolls for developing and printing and this process just takes one or two hours.</p>

<p>I am not against digitals at all, but if anyone has any trouble with one medium (digital or film), he should switch to another one and I don't find anything wrong with this. We should take advantage of these available flexibilities. I had problems with digitals in my earlier photography days, I switched to films and happy so far for my needs, thats all.</p>

<p>1.4 X converter may be a good idea, I am also considering one for my film SLR.</p>

<p>I agree with Asad, and I think Benjamin, you have problem with your Monitor, just calibrate that carefully, exposure is under control in the picture.</p>

<p>Use films</p>

<p>Hey guys, I have canon 8800f flatbed scanner. here are so many friends with great scanning output with 35mm films, but can I know how can I get the best results from my canon 8800f flatbed, I have posted some scanned samples from my flatbed. Please tell me so that I can get finest results. I think I am not getting what I can get as so many examples are great here so I think I can also get the far better results from a flatbed.</p>

<p>Wow, this is really a encouraging thread so far......! where are anti film moderators today...?</p>

<p><strong>D700 </strong> is better as <strong>you can use your existing 35mm SLR lenses</strong> on that as the same focal length behaviour and the size and shape of D700 is <strong>more compact </strong> than other two described.</p>

<p>Still there are so many people who use point n shoot 35m film cameras for there casual use and a $20 PnS film camera can produce fine results if people use those carefully with knowing the limitations. An interesting thing is that a film PnS produces far better results than a Digital PnS. so the films are still live and in well circulation.<br>

Only one disappoiinting thing about films is that I feel lake of slides and MFs and labs for those.</p>

<p>Yoshino, have a look here at 100% crop:</p><div></div>

<p>Nikons are always best but if you talk about flatbed with reasonable 7 to 12 megapixel image, Canon 8800f is nice tool with combo of Vuescan scanning software. I am using this scanner and happy with what I paid. But if you want to bringout all the details from the film, go for Nikon dedicated scanners. You can get those very cheaply today as buying used.</p><div></div>

<p>Have you tried the Vuescan? it is nice software for scanning the films with great dynamic range, perfect colors and customizations.</p>

<p>I am posting a <strong>crop of 4800 dpi scan with different softwares on Canon 8800f flatbed scanner</strong>, please have look...</p><div></div>

<p>I am posting a <strong>crop of 4800 dpi scan with different softwares</strong>, please have look...</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I am posting an uncompresse JPG file here which has two images scaned at 4800 DPI on my Canon 8800f with two different softwares. First one is scaned with Conon Scangear and second one is scaned with Vuescan. Please ignore the colors and tell me which is better in terms of details. These are just flat scans without any tweaking or sharpening.</p>

<p>You can also experiment in photoshop with this file by applying some sharpening, or other settings which you like, after doing all, please tell me which one is better to play with.</p>

<p>The file is largen in size and uncompressed so it might take time to open</p>

<p>Thanks</p><div></div>

<p>D700, D3</p>

<p>Kari I was talking about the lenses made by Nikon, not for other, because I prefer Nikkors with my Nikon. But thanks for your information which I didn't knew earlier about D40 and D60.</p>

<h1>Do I need a 50mm?:</h1>

<p>>> Everybody needs...!</p>

<p>Mike, as you described your basic needs selecting a camera, are not really primary features, these are secondary features as bonus while selecting a camera. When you go for choosing a D-SLR, you have to verify its sensor size and quality, low light capabilities, megapixel, lens availability to fit on, size and weight for easy controls etc. In these terms <strong>D700</strong> is a perfect camera which has your desired feature also but costs thrice as compared to your budget, so you will have to compromise with sensor size and other features. In your budget, D40 fits but this camera uses different kind of lenses which are specially made for this model only by Nikon, so this is a risky to buy now while concern to lens range. I would not suggest the D40 at all to anyone because later after some experience you will feel the importance of lenses, on that time you will miss the range of lenses for the D40. I don't know if D70 and D80 are available today or not but these are very popular models of Nikon and you can use any Nikkor lens on these. These are crop sensor models so these use DX lenses and use normal SLR lens with some cropped area of actual angle of a normal lens. In crop sensor (DX Sensor) you have a great option today, that is<strong> D90</strong> . It can capture movie with sound also, this is a unique feature in SLR camera world. It supports live view also.</p>

<p>I don't have any experience and knowledge about Canons, so I can not say anything about Canons.</p>

<p>I shoot with a Nikon F75, and it fits perfactly in my hands, it very easier to carry with its lower weight than others. I am happy with this, because I can control it very easily. I have seen the D2x which one of my friend have, it was looking like a mammoth in front of my tiny F75.</p>

<p>I agree with Andrew, and I would say just go for a second hand version of any Nikon AF SLR like F90, F80 or a lightweight F 75, I have F75 and it has all the controls I need in a camera.</p>

<p>If your 5D is serving enough for you then why should you bother about what comes new, I don't understand. <strong>DIGITAL </strong> SLRs are just same as other electronic items and whenever someone buys one item it gets older and newer models keep continuing to come in the market.</p>

<p>I would suggest you that just enjoy what you have and keep your mind busy with the creativity, it will be worhty than giving pain to your mind for thinking about the "scrap plastics".</p>

<p>Dan Lovell, Thanks for clarifying what and how you think the manipulation. You are absolutely right that a photo is manipulated right that time when we capture that, obviously we use different kind of angles, rolls and filters (I don't have any filter) etc. and we try to represent that scene as our imagination that how we want to.</p>

<p>But I think the original poster of this threat is talking about the manipulation of images at the time of computer editing like tempering with originality, change in tonality, unusual contrast etc. This talk is about manipulation of a photograph after capturing, not about the manipulation of the scene, isn't it?</p>

<p>But thanks again for appreciating my work and adding your words my thinking about manipulation. I repeat that I agree that everybody manipulates image who shoots the scene with camera using different lenses and angles if we talk about a photograph in so depth.</p>

<p><strong>Hello David Hensler</strong> ,</p>

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Please see my portfolio here, I shoot 35mm films and most of my pictures are untouched, even without any crop, You will find only two or three manipulated pictures there. I just scan negative and apply auto color and auto level if required due to bad scanning, I just believe (For my work, not talking about other's work) to represent the photo as and how I saw. But it doesn't mean that I refuse totally the editing or manipulation. Sometimes it is strongly needed in some fields like advertising, modeling, product photography etc.</p>

 

<p ><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2381463">Rishi Sanyal</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Frequent poster" src="http://static.photo.net/v3graphics/member-status-icons/2rolls.gif" alt="" title="Frequent poster" /> </a> , Mar 19, 2009; 04:15 a.m.<br>

OK, I'll make this one easy for ya, folks:<br>

Here's a 12MP image file... is it from a 12MP dSLR or a 12MP scan of a 35mm frame of film?<br>

 <br>

Answer : Digital Image..</p>

<p>Actually this is a overexposed capture, may be at the shooting time or RAw conversion time, but it is. So that the highlights have blown out. I think this is not the correct exposure for this kind of scene, in your full resolution posted image, I can clearly see that you tried to get more details in shadowed areas, so it happened but it is not as much of noise according to the lighting.</p>

<p>I just applyid the Auto Color and after that Auto Levels in PS, and now I don't find that "noise" which you say unacceptable...</p><div></div>