pankaj purohit

<p>But I see different problem here in terms of resolution and that is will the existing lenses can utilize full strength of a high resolution sensors like 24 mp. I am a Nikonian and after buying D5100 (16MP) recently I realized that the kit 18-55mm came with it and my existing 70-300mm G lenses hardly do justice with 16mp, only 50mm 1.8 uses every pixel of that resolution than whats the relevance of so high megapixels? leave aside how noisy or cleaner these high resolution sensors are.</p>

<p>Agree with Wouter. Image no. 1 and 3 are decent enough considering the capabilities of P7000 sensor. The image no 2 is really very tricky, most part of the scene is under shadow and camera sets the exposure averaging the scene so the dark areas of this scene exposed 'properly' and bright parts overexposed. Sensors of Point n Shoot camera usually give up in this kind of situation so its not a point of your camera's capabilities here. White balance doesn't seem right here but it always happen with digital cameras, we have to edit almost every digital image in computer, auto color and auto tone in Photoshop does decent job with maximum images, sometimes manual color toning is required. I don't know much about controls of P7000 but I would suggest you to try to find which picture control setting has most dynamic range in your camera and set the camera to that, eg. I keep my D5100 DSLR in "neutral" setting because this setting has most dynamic range and I can control color tones later on computer, many people keep "Standard" because of better in camera contrast. Don't be much worried about in camera contrast, just make sure to set your camera to capture maximum dynamic range so you can edit shots later on computer. </p>

<p>Might be little off-topic but still I want to share something which I recently experienced after buying new D5100. Earlier I used to shoot with N75 film SLR coupling with 28-80 G kit (second hand), 70-300 G (cheap but Decent glass) and 50mm 1.8 (Best picture quality I am continually getting). Now when I bought D5100, I felt that its 16 mp sensor is pretty much demanding in terms of lens resolution. Let me share each lens:<br>

1. Forget the 28-80G, I bought 18-55 VR kit lens with D5100 so wide angle shots are covered with 18-55. I read good reviews about it so I bought 18-55 with camera. Now I found that this kit lens is more than acceptable but not capable to utilizing full strength of 16mp sensor. </p>

<p>2. 70-300 mm G lens was giving decent quality with films because due to my scanner resolution limitation I never could know the full strength of this lens. Now when I shoot with D5100, it surrenders beyond 200mm, and only usable after f-8 below 200mm, I feel that 70-300mm G lens is worst than 18-55kit lens in terms of resolution</p>

<p>3. Now talk about the jam, 50mm 1.8. This remains my favorite again after switching from film to digital. This is the only lens I have which utilizes full strength of 16mp sensor. I am really delighted to see the results of this lens. I now use this lens primarily because of its results even while my D5100 doesn't autofocus with this and this lens doesn't has VR.</p>

<p>So I want to tell everybody that lens resolution should also be considered in this era of high resolution sensors.</p>

<p>Now I am in quest for a high resolution telephoto zoom to replace my existing 70-300mm G lens which can fully utilize the D5100's 16 mp sensor at all focal lengths.</p>

<p>If you are using conon software for scaning then forget it and start using Vuescan, you'll get great results with way better dynamic range and details than canon software which itself applies some ugly software tweaking to the image after the scan. Vuescan utilizes all the hardware juice and faster too. its 2400 dpi resolution with multipass is enough for Canon 8600f, on the other hand 4800 of canon's software is useless because of some spatial effect applied by canon software to the scans.</p>

<p>As other fellows already mentioned advantages of D7000, I am putting my views here which make D7000 more desirable professional DX format camera than D5100, even I own and love my D5100 and am not a photography professional, this is my hobby and sometimes I use camera as supporting tool in my graphics designing profession..</p>

<p>Biggest and considerable advantages of D7000:</p>

<p>A) <strong>Inbuilt focus motor - </strong>Older AF lenses work without any issue where D5100 doesn't autofocus my previously owned AF lenses.</p>

<p>B) <strong>Dual Memory Card Slot - </strong>This is the most desirable feature which a proffessional would like to have in his camera. These dual memory card slots can be configured to mirroring/instant backup useing two memory cards, where one memory card is primary storage and other one is instant backup storage.</p>

<p>C) <strong> Weather proof sturdy and bigger body - </strong>Pros like better grip. Body is weather sealed and sturdy.</p>

<p>D) <strong> Maximum functions on body instead of menu - </strong>Pros love to operate camera through buttons on body because they need instant control capabilities.</p>

<p>I got Nikon F75 as my first camera when the film SLRs started loosing market because of DSLR popularity. This little camera had all the modern abilities like autofocus, metering etc to make work easy for the user but I started all the things manually because I wanted to learn. In starting I used to focus manually everything I used to shoot, even I set my camera to M mode, offcorse, here the camera was helping me by telling the exposure compensation levels and I used to confirm the right shutter-aperture combination by the meter which I set by reading the photography lessons. Luckily negative films are far excusing in terms of exposure so I never got bad exposure and I love films for the color rendition and greater dynamic range but there used to be few out-of-focus shots in a roll of film.</p>

<p>Later on, I learnt that nobody sees whether you clicked the shot using manually or using auto settings like auto-focus people just appreciate how good the overall picture is, so I started using autofocus too along with my manual practice. after couple of years, autofocus became my habit and I was using manual focus only where autofocus got stuck like in low lighting or cameras inability to auto-focus for some subjects.</p>

<p>Now I got my first DSLR which lacks inbuilt autofocus motor, so I will have to use my older lenses with manual focus, and now my earlier practice of using manual focus will help me. Today I realise that it was good to start photography using manual focus and other manual controls.</p>

<p>Hi Sanju, in my opinion you should consider these lenses too :<br /> 1. AF-S DX NIKKOR 55-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED VR (INR 20,000/-)<br /> 2. AF-S DX VR Zoom-NIKKOR 55-200mm f/4-5.6G IF-ED (INR 12,000/-)<br /> 3. AF-S DX Zoom-NIKKOR 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED (INR 10,000/-)</p>

<p>These all are Nikkors and good zoom lenses. The 55-300 is better looking to me. I recently bought D5100 and previously I used to shoot with Nikon film SLR and already have few AF lenses, one of those is - AF Zoom-NIKK0R 70-300mm f/4-5.6G, which is one of the cheapest lens available. If I talk about image quality, I always got great results with this cheap lens using with my film body, even I can compare the image quality with my 50mm 1.8 which is known as one of the sharpest lens available. Sharpness with 70-300 was really more than what I spend. I don' have much knowledge about technicalities of elements so can't tell much about that. Drawback of AF-70-300mm is that I can't auto focus this lens using with D5100, which doesn't has inbuilt focus motor, so planning to use this lens using manually for some time and considering to get a 55-300 later.</p>

<p>Whatever I observed reading different photographers at photo.net since I am member here, I think shorter zoom lenses like 3x-4x are more sharp at all the lengths than more zoom capable lenses 6x-10x which can produce softer results at smallest and longest lengths.</p>

<p>Link for a shot with AF-70-300mm G : <a href="../photo/7087896">http://www.photo.net/photo/7087896</a></p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>Amitav, Bukeh depends on focal length, aperture and focused subject distance. Film SLRs and FX DSLRs always deliver better DOF/bukeh in scene than DX format DSLRs because of change in focal length and larger coverage area. DX format DSLR also produce nice bukeh if you can manage to shoot with overall good combination of focal length, large aperture.</p>

<p>For example, cover some things in the scene which you are going to shoot at 50mm and focus on one subject there, and shoot the same scene but shoot from more distance at 200mm and cover all the things as upper shot, than focus the same subject at large aperture, you will get huge bukeh in background and foreground in the scene which shot at 200mm.</p>

<p>D90 and D5100 will both produce same looking bukeh as both are DX format cameras.</p>

<p>I used to shoot with film SLR and recently bought a D5100. I miss lot of controls on body of D5100 as I was habitual of film SLR but I don't feel its a big matter for me, because after some time I will be used to with controls on D5100. some controls are in menu rather on body. The body of D5100 is smaller than D90 and D7000 but it has same sensor as the D7000 which has little more resolution plus better low light capabilities as compared to D90. I am still exploring this little toy but it has everything which a amature hobbiest needs.</p>

<p>One big backdrop of D5100 is that it doesn't has inbuilt focus motor so if someone like me who owns large number of previous AF lenses, won't be able to use auto-focus on those lenses. Only AF-S or AF-I lenses will autofocus with this body</p>

<p>If you don't own any lens previously than its not a concern for you because there is huge range of AF-S Nikkor lenses available now and you will be buying those.</p>

<p>If you want better weather sealed body, maximum controls on body and bigger viewfinder, go and pickup D90. If want better sensor with slightly more megapixel, better low light capability, better video ability, articulated screen (which is useful in some odd compositions and video shooting) than go for D5100. don't worry much about the newer or older technology, just priorities your needs.</p><div></div>

<p>John,If your happy with FS2710 results than forget about 9000F. I have been using a 8800F and 9000F shares most parts from it.</p>

<p>I have lot of experience with 8800F as I have been using 35mm films so far so I bought it and have tried everything to get better results. I left the Canon software and used Vuescan, which is best scanning software so far.</p>

<p>These scanners are usefull only for storing images just for desktop viewing or web postings, which was my purpose to buy one and I am happily using that scanner for that purpose. If you want to print from these scans then forget about it, these flatbed scanner never can produce usable results. Real quality of films never can't be captured using a flatbed. maximum</p>

<p>If you are really serious for a scanner upgradation, then try to get used Nikon coolscan series scanner or any other dedicated film scanner, it will really do its job and real juice from film will come out nicely.<br /> Here are some images posted by me earlier in the forum in other discussion regarding scanners, have a look : <a href="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00T/00TJvn-133547584.jpg">http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00T/00TJvn-133547584.jpg</a><br /> <a href="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00T/00TJvq-133549584.jpg">http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00T/00TJvq-133549584.jpg</a><br /> <a href="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00T/00TJvs-133551684.jpg">http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00T/00TJvs-133551684.jpg</a></p>

<p>Here is the link of that discussion, you will gain lot of by reading whole thread, do read before taking any decision : <a href="../film-and-processing-forum/00THeH">http://www.photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/00THeH</a></p>

<p>You can also go through my gallery on Photo.net to see more results of 8800f, almost every capture is scanned on this scanner.</p>

<p>I would say more directly, I need a cheaper FX DSLR, thats it.</p>

<p>I still use F75, but unfortunately its battery cap broken about a year ago and recently broken its mode dial too, I can live without battery cap by putting some adhesive tap after putting battery into it but its impossible to live without mode dial because now I can only shoot in auto mode and don't control over other things like aperture, shtter speed, EV etc.</p>

<p>Now its time to get a Nikon D5100 along with kit 18-55 AF-s and try find someone who can fix my old film SLR to make it usable again.</p><div></div>

<p>I still use F75, but unfortunately its battery cap broken about a year ago and recently broken its mode dial too, I can live without battery cap by putting some adhesive tap after putting battery into it but its impossible to live without mode dial because now I can only shoot in auto mode and don't control over other things like aperture, shtter speed, EV etc.</p>

<p>Now its time to get a Nikon D5100 along with kit 18-55 AF-s and try find someone who can fix my old film SLR to make it usable again.</p>

<p>COOLSCAN CANT BE BEATEN BY V500, I THINK YOU SHOULD IMPROOVE YOUR SCANNING SKILLS AND COMMAND OVR VARIOUS SCANNING SOFTWARES LIKE VUESCAN</p>

<p>My Choices :<br>

1. : Everything in 'M' mode.<br>

2: 'A'<br>

3: 'S'<br>

...<br>

...<br>

Last : 'Auto'</p>

<p>Jim, your point is right but as I already said that DPI will only affect the 'resolution', not the 'print size'. Paper dimensions/size should be correct, printer will automatically adjust/interpolate the DPI or LPI or PPI. But DPI/PPI/LPI should be fair enough for a decent print resolution. As Saulius is saying that his work is related to jewelry catalog so he should go with about 300 DPI even I would recommend that it should be at least 300 DPI because the jewelry items have very small details so those should be printed very decently. Ofcourse the printer should also be good one here and I think the catalog is going to be printed at a reputed printing service which has some great offset printing devices with sound technicians.</p>

<p>All these steps are performed assuming that final print output would be on paper size of 8 X 10 inches at 300 DPI. DPI would effect only in resolution, but paper size should match perfectly in the photoshop with the final output paper which would be used in the printer.</p>

<p>Here is the example that how to set guidelines.</p>

<p>I am summing that I want to print a coin of 2 inches diameter so I setup guideline between 2 inches, I hope you can understand :</p><div></div>

<p>Screen resolution is usually 72 DPI and print resolution is usually 300 DPI.</p>

<p>If you want to show the coin in its real size than you should know its dimensions and than open a new document/image in photoshop and set the desired paper size for the print, don't forget to set the dpi to 300 (while assuming that you are foing to print it at 300 dpi. Now set on the rulers and place the guidelines for the desired dimensions of the object, now open the desired object's image in photoshop and copy it and than paste it into your new document/image where you performed the upper described steps. now resize to match the object's size as the guidelines.</p>

<p>Here is the new window parameters :</p><div></div>

<p>I would still prefer the neck starp than the SH, because the camera is on your chest so it is in the most safe and easy to pickup and click position for the camera. Even if I don't have a strap option than I would like to keep my camera in my hands than the SH because its not looking so comfortable postion for me.</p>

<p>Basic difference between the both medium ISO is the Grain/Noise. If you use higher ISO in digital than the noise (Digital Grain) is lot lesser compared to same film ISO grain, so the advantage here to digital but sometimes in low lights, the higher film ISO shots get better color depth and tonality in comparison of the same shot with higher digital ISO.</p>

<p><strong>Request to Mauro</strong> :</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Comparison of the 100% crops posted:</p>

</blockquote>

<p><img src="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00T/00TKEG-133707584.jpg" alt="" hspace="5" vspace="10" width="700" height="900" /> <br /> <strong>Request to Mauro</strong> :<br /> Mauro, you compared nicely by taking my Canon 8800 scanned image with your previous experiments but you took the DOF part in your comparison so I request to you that please take the 'focused' part in your comparison work, which are leafs. That would be nice for us. In my image, the pipe (Which you cropped and took in comparison) is at the ground floor and the plant is on the first floor, so the pipe blurred.</p>

<p>Bruce, what you set in Vuescan for ICE like - Low, Medium and Maximum...? I usually set it to Medium or Maximum but don't understand how it will affect the quality of the image data...?</p>

<p>One more with 100% crops</p><div></div>

<p>1200 DPI, enough for 4X6 print :</p><div></div>

<p>Canon 8800f flatbed : 35mm negative scaned with 100% crops :</p><div></div>