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randmcnatt

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Posts posted by randmcnatt

  1. Their popularity seems to be waning.

     

    http://www.alexa.com/data/details/traffic_details/localpull.com

     

    I had an idle moment and tried some searches for their clients' business types, and it seemed to work for smaller communities (where everybody presumably already knows the businesses already) but seemed neutral to invisible for larger towns.

     

    They have exactly 1 photography client in Cranston, RI, for instance. Googling for 'photographer cranston ri' didn't find it within the first 3 pages; changing to 'photography cranston ri' found it but it by a different route, with no apparent connection to localpull.com. Changing to Google Maps was even worse: on page 3 I got a hit for a PO Box in Providence.

  2. Do you have a Wacom? It can disable the keyboard+mouse.

     

    Try clearing cache - I mean "Edit->Purge".

     

    Make sure you have enough swap space on your scratch disk; you may need to empty the Trashcan OR Recycle Bin.

     

    Have you accidentally selected a single pixel or something, maybe with Ctrl-H[ide] on? You said several images, so probably not, but ya never know...

     

    All these have bit me at one time or other.

  3. Olan Mills does not archive negatives forever, and will give a customer a release after a certain period of time if the customer contacts the home office in Chattanooga. I worked for a studio that does a lot of copy work and digital restorations; we saw about a dozen Olan Mills prints every year. We'd give the customer their address, and if Olan Mills couldn't help them directly, they'd usually come back later with a signed release letter. It was actually a quite reasonable and civilized process.
  4. There's a large, diffuse rectangular light source off to the camera's right, aimed about 45 degrees into the shot (which is the main reason the group is unevenly lit); it reaches to or almost reaches the floor and appears to be at least 6 to 7 feet (2 meters) tall. It could be a window, or door, since there is paneling on that wall (in the right window you can see the light reflecting off the of the right-side wall, and in the center window there appears to be a bit of back wall, possibly with a photographer standing in front of it) but it's more likely a soft-box or such. There's also a reflector or fill light of some type low on camera-left.
  5. <a href="http://bibblelabs.com">Bibble</a> would certainly quality, as it keeps all adjustments in sidecar files which are reopened with and reapplied to the RAW files. The files are simple text, which is handy. We use it as our main capture tool for that reason, among others.

    <p><a href=http://dxo.com/intl/photo>DxO</a> may also, although it's harder (although possible) to regenerate captures with it.

  6. Unfortunately, Gimp and PS write jpegs completely differently, so every byte after the initial header is different.

     

    However, I have found out it's triggered by something in the exif data somewhere, and that the problem results in apparently false TCP ACK and DUP ACK packets (acknowledgments) being sent back to me. I figure they're forged because the initial ACK is sent even though the chunk of file being acknowleged never arrives. Also they're being "returned" faster than the round-trip signal time on the route. I can't see all these different servers in different places all sending unneeded ACKs and only on PS jpeg files. I've got the culprit narrowed down to nts-online.net, Level3.net, and wcg.net (never heard of them, but I think they're owned by Level3), because those are the only routes in common between all the servers I've tried. Oddly, Comcast has recently been caught doing the exact same thing.

     

    Workaround 1: Photoshop's Save for Web, which strips the exif data, but that's a pain to use, especially as we use scripts to get everything ready, and there's SOME exif data I'd like to have on the files.

     

    Workaround 2: Re-import everything into Lightroom, export full-size jpegs. That'll have to do until my ISP gets it figured out.

  7. Windoze? It's possible a drive letter has changed.

     

    In Library view, open the Navigator panel and check the Folders tab. You may see a drive marked in red, or some red folder names. Right-click on one and choose "Locate Missing Folder"; that should let you browse to the actual location of the files and let LP know where they really are.

     

    Similarly, if only some images are missing, you can right-click the image, "Show In Explorer", "Locate" and let LR know where it is.

     

    We do this all the time, because we move entire folders to secondary storage whenever the primary disk gets full. Eventually we purge old files from the system and need to completely recapture images, rebuild folders and import old databases, but LR takes it all in stride.

  8. I have a <i>very</i> odd problem. Today, suddenly, I can't upload Photoshop

    JPEG files. Just Photoshop, just JPEG.

    <p>Lightroom-generated JPEGs are OK; so are files from my cameras, Gimp,

    ImageMagick, and other graphic programs. Opening a PS JPEG in Gimp or other

    program and then saving it is enough to make it uploadable.

    <p>Photoshop-created PSDs work, along with TIFs, as do PNGs, GIFs, PDFs and EPS

    files.

    <p>It doesn't matter if I try to upload to SmugMug (using the Java uploader, the

    one-at-a-time uploader or Omar Shahine's Send2Smug) or to ImageShack, or simply

    FTP to my own hosted server. It also doesn't matter if I try to do the upload

    from Windows XP or Linux, with or without our Netgear firewall. Attempting to

    upload any PS JPEG just stalls out at some multiple of 4kb, and never over 32k.

    <p>Thinking my ISP may have added some funky anti-virus or throttling filter, I

    called them up and had a pleasant conversation with a very nice young lady who

    wasn't too sure what a jay peg is, but allowed as that the "guys" have been real

    busy with a lot of calls recently; they'll get back to me Any Time

    Now®.[Hey, those guys are good! Just heard back from a tech and he's got no

    idea but does understand the problem and will kick it up to the network admins

    this afternoon.]<p>There's nothing I can find on the 'net or PN about the

    problem. Has anyone come up against anything like this?

  9. You only need a lens that can focus to about 1 meter (3'); the viewfinders of most 35mm and dSLR cameras are set up so that even though your eye is just millimeters from the finder, the image of the screen appears arm's length away. But to get enough of the screen to show you may need a wide-angle held very close (be careful of scratching the lens).

     

    (Sorry for the poor quality of the attached pic. It was shot handheld at 1/45, f5.6, ISO 1600 with an 18-200 VR.)<div>00PGPN-43088684.jpg.9455cb13a0e6fc473a643650d29d1a15.jpg</div>

  10. <i>Cairo, Egypt = Minneapolis, MN = Cairo, IL as far as sun light goes.</i><p>? - More like Cairo = Tuscon = Baja<p>Cairo (lat 30°N) is closer to El Paso (28°N) and the Sonora Desert (31°N) as far as both sunlight intensity and climate. In Chicago the sun never gets over about 70° from the horizon, in Cairo it passes almost directly overhead in June. Summer days are shorter nearer to the equator, too (14 vs 15 hours of sunshine, 25 vs 35 minutes of twilight).<p>If you're not used to 100% cloudless skies and 0% humidity you're in for a (hopefully pleasant) surprise.<p>

    You'll need good polarizers and/or UV and/or skylight filters. Skylights are pretty reasonably priced, and do a lot to reduce blue shadows (unless you're really looking for blue shadows). Polarizers will help keep skin tones and specular hilights under control, as well as give you some extra f-stops to play with. Your Hoya UVs are a good start, though. Take extra batteries and practice up on your fill-flash technique.<p>A trip to the <a href="http://aa.usno.navy.mil/data/">US Naval Observatory's Site</a> can give you some sun & moon tables to help plan your days. Have fun!

  11. "...but it's too late since you can only register it within the 90 days of the first publication, and that passed a long time ago..."

     

    Do it anyway. You have to have it to bring suit in US Federal courts.

     

    If you'd sent in the registration immediately, there's a "..or 1 month after the copyright owner has learned of the infringement..." that may have helped you. In any case, you may be able to claim statutory damages on any future infringement, and every new billboard could possibly count as a new infringement, especially if you've notified Lee of the problem.

     

    Like most here, IANAL.

  12. There are two standard camera-mounting screws. As Dan said, 1/4-20 is 0.25 inch diameter, 20 threads per inch; the other is 3/8-16 which is 0.375 inch diameter, 16 threads per inch. Even otherwise metric cameras and photo equipment use these two sizes.

     

    All 35mm cameras that I've ever seen use the 1/4-20 size. Some medium-format and view cameras use the 3/8-16. Many tripod heads attach to the legs with a 3/8-16 screw; some of those, like my Bogen grips, come with a little threaded adapter to attach to tripod legs that have 1/4-20 screws.

     

    The focusing rail has a 1/4-20 hole on the bottom, so it will fit the small screw that came with your tripod head.

  13. I carried a Novatron set for years. At that time Speedotron was king, Novatron was an inexpensive substitute. They got an extra 40 Watt-seconds by running the voltage higher, but they were comparatively easier to blow in a power surge, and I cooked a few.

     

    The build quality at that time was not good: the original heads were made from what appeared to be a flash-tube-plus-reflector designed for tire balancing machines, with an ill-fitting ABS plastic cover; the electrical joints inside the pack looked, quite honestly, like they'd been soldered by an intoxicated chimpanzee; the cables were lighter gauge than every other studio set, and got noticeably warm under heavy use. Maybe they're built better these days, but I noticed on a picture of the standard flash head (at B&H) that the reflector is still being bent by the screws that holds the cover on, and appears dented along the rim, which means to me that it probably still doesn't fit quite right.

  14. You should be able to find CD/DVD markers at any office supply house, like <a href="http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/258424/Permanent-Markers-Assorted-Colors-Pack-of/">Office Depot</a> (You'll notice these are made by Sharpie, but you can find almost every CD-makers brand), even *Mart and other discount stores. We recently picked up a 6-pack of Memorex brand markers (at Target, I think).<p>Grease pencil never quite dries, and can smear, eventually getting grime on the optical side of the CD, and can get greasy, dust-attracting goop inside your CD/DVD drive. China marker as I know it is even worse, because it already contains grit.
  15. "pesach" is the Jewish Passover. '08 is, well, now. Pesach runs April 19-27 this year. Being a company run by devout owners, WebClosing is what they over the Pesach holidays. No idea about "FD" but it could be something like "for display".

     

    I suspect PHP or a CGI script has a tiny typo in it and it displays the name of the message you're supposed to see instead of the message itself, which probably says something to the effect that "Sorry, we're not taking orders until April 28."

     

    Since it presumably didn't become visible until they closed for Erev Pesach (April 19th), there was no one available to correct the mistake, since the owners frown on any type of work during the celebration, apparently including webmastering.

  16. It used the old Nazi-liberated AGFA-patent color process, a lot like E-3, but incompatible. As a start, you could contact the manufacturer <a href="http://www.filmotec.de/English_Site/english_site.html">FilmoTec GmbH</a> directly and see if they have any ideas. They don't make color films there anymore, but may have a contact list.<p>As a last-ditch effort, you can process it as a B/W negative. At Technicolor aka Magnicolor aka Qualex we used to process ORWO slide film in the generic B/W film line; it came out kind of dense and grainy, but the negative was printable.
  17. CLIX comes to mind (they're a franchise operation), but I'd start with <a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/en/business/EIS/index.jhtml">Kodak's Event Imaging</a> and <a href="http://www.imagingspectrum.com/">Imaging Spectrum</a> of Dallas.<p>

    <a href="http://www.eventphotosystems.com/">EPS</a> is one of the standards of the industry; they make software, but may have links to system integrators. <p>

    Mitsubishi makes a fairly complete set of on-site systems. <a href="http://www.systeminsight.co.uk/Event_Photographers_What_is_Best.htm">System Insight</a>, a British company, deals in Mitsi and has some good info for event photographers.<p>Now, if you'd like to get wet, there's a new <a href="http://www.fotoescape.com">underwater photo kiosk</a> available.

  18. (A slightly cynical view ;)

     

    Step 1: Desperation. There are more brides in June than available photographers. If your name is in the phone book or you've got enough business cards out, you will automatically get a few calls by around the 2nd week of May, or before if everyone else books up early enough.

     

    Step 2: Fear of committment. Choosing a photographer can be a traumatic decision for the bride. They want reassurance, and the best reassurance is the fact that you did a good job for their friend who just got married. You're more likely to get the call than another unknown photographer.

     

    After that, some REAL marketing is required.

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