coomber

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I am wondering if it is possible to use a RIP on a 1270 to print 'normal' colour work using just the CMYK inks and separately print B/W photo's using the LC/LM/K ink tanks? These would contain shades of grey not LC and LM.</p>

<p>Background:</p>

<p>I have recently picked up an old Epson 1270 for very little money and I am really interested in experimenting with Black and White prints but I also would like to retain the option to print colour, although happy to sacrifice a bit of quality on that if need be. Photo's and banners for the cub pack look much better printed out in A3+ sizes rather than bits of A4.</p>

<p>I have an empty CIS system for it and I did consider two CIS's and just flush out the heads when swapping between colour and B/W inksets but that seems wasteful of ink and more importantly time! I don't have space for a second 1270 which is the obvious solution.</p>

<p>I am wondering if I can fill the CMYK parts of the CIS as usual but replace the LC and LM with photo grey inks originally destined for a HP #100 cartridge. I know that using ink designed for an HP printer may well have differing viscosity and create messy puddles/air issues with the printer, but I'm willing to play around with this if its something that might just work out. I know MIS does eboni inksets for my printer, but they are not particularly cheap, plus I have to get them to the UK.</p>

<p>I will also obviously have to create ICC profiles for both types of print to get anything vaguely useful from it, but again if this is possible, I would be interested in trying it out.</p>

<p>Anyone tried anything as crazy as this?</p>

<p>Steve,<br /><br />Thanks for the kind offer - sorry for not reply for so long, didn't get an email with updates. Since I started the thread I managed to get a great deal on a Minolta Dimage Multi Pro scanner that knocks spots off my Epson scans wrt sharpness and DMAX.<br /><br />Once I get myself truly comfy scanning via the Minolta I will probably sell my 4490 and regain a little bit of deskspace.<br /><br />Craig. </p>

<p>One quick tip for those that haven't realised it, the Pentax SLR's can assist with manual focus. (well at least mine do) If you mount a manual focus lens on the camera with the switch still set to AF the shutter will only fire if there is something in focus in the frame according to the AF system.<br /><br />It can be used to prefocus on a area frequented by the bird you are trying to photograph while the camera sits steady on a tripod and then keep the shutter pressed by cable release. As soon as a bird lands in the correct 'zone' the camera will decide it has a focus lock and fire the shutter for you.<br /><br />Sorry for all those I've just tried to teach to suck eggs!<br /><br />Craig. </p>

<p>Vuescan works fine with the SF-210 feeder, well it does on Linux so I'm guessing it will on Win7!</p>

<p>Where is everyone getting the 5400ppi from, that number was the model of scanner used wasn't it? However, Adrian, Dave's comment above about dynamic range still stands very true, is this a problem in all the negs you've scanned or just in shots like the one above?<br /><br />I don't tend to use neg film much so I'm not sure if I can be of much more help!<br /><br />Craig. </p>

<p>DF,<br /><br />I've found the transfer to B&W tricky too having been a chrome shooter for many a year, I have problems 'seeing' in B&W, hopefully I am slowly improving.<br /><br />The best help I found was my compact digicam will display it's liveview in B&W when I set it to. This enables me to grab a quick preview of how the scene in front of me transfers to B&W and is also a quick way of checking what the effect a filter or two will have. (My digicam is an old Fuji E900, but I presume many others do the same).<br /><br />HTH,<br /><br />Craig. </p>

<p>I use a elderly Fuji E900 for the very same purpose! I picked it up for £40 on ebay and it's been fab.<br>

<br />9MP, larger than average sensor with Manual/AV/TV/Fully Auto options and the ability to take RAW too (Just found out that I can still get it to 'see' and take pictures in B/W while capturing full colour in the RAW image). I often fine I can get quite reasonable shots with this camera alone - it's also my 'always with me' camera.<br>

Maybe not quite as small as you are looking for though.</p>

<p>Starvy,<br /><br />Sorry, my fault for being lazy - AR is anti reflective, just the basic stuff from a picture framers. Currently I tape the film to the underside of the glass so there is nothing between the film and the scanner glass except a tiny air gap (set by taping 1p pieces to the bottom of the glass in the corners)<br /><br />The main advantage is the film is definitely flat doing it this way! </p>

<p>Hi,<br>

<br />I'm scanning on an Epson 4490 and have resorted to the slab of AR glass and taping the film to it for dry scanning which is a big improvement over the original holders. (I've found a 1p piece in each corner seems to get the best focus height for my scanner)<br>

<br />I would also like to try out the wet scanning system using a sheet of optically clear Mylar, fluid, film, fluid, glass sandwich but I'm struggling to find a UK source of Mylar (or equivalent if there is one). Anyone here in Blighty know of a source at a price that won't make my eyes water?<br>

<br />Any other ways to improve on the scanning quality for this flatbed? (I have a coolscan for 35mm, but just can't afford the 8/900 version! nor a used Minolta nor a Polaroid Sprintscan 120f) Would removing the glass patten make things better or a lot worse?<br>

<br />Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I am lucky enough to own a Voigtlander Bessar E-Messer with Heliar lens (All black rangefinder model) that seems to be working as originally built back in the late 1930's. However, 80 years of life has left a fair bit of dirt in the viewfinder and rangefinder windows which are pretty small as it is and unlike my Ensign Autorange, there is no obvious screws to remove the top plate to clean the grim out.<br>

Anyone else got one of these and been inside? I don't want to incur any damage (I have the right tools and have CLA'd a number of folders happily beforehand, but this one I really want to get right first time!)<br /> Any help and advice greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>As Starvy has already posted, the main thing is to take your time and be prepared to reset the focusing after you get it all together. I've CLA'd a few folders and it's really quite easy when you get into it.<br>

One of the beauty's of an old folder in this regard is that the lens is likely not to be coated anyway so the fungus can do less damage! Good luck.</p>

<p>Not a tripod, but offers other advantages is the Trek-Tech TrekPods - I have one and it's great, surprisingly stable and easier to carry about compared to most tripods. Obviously it isn't as stable as any of the above tripods and I wouldn't recommend walking away from a camera mounted on it in the wind in case it blows over! <br>

Just a different POV to consider.<br>

Craig.</p>

<p>Oops, seem to have double spaced that post, sorry!<br>

Madness, yes I'm still there! Dread to think how many bags I've bought over the years.<br>

Leslie, in the UK you can often be restricted to one bag at airports, plus I prefer to be able to wear one bag and just grab one when going somewhere. <br>

Walt, that's sorta what I'm thinking of, except that the rucksack part would be a standard daysack that could take Domke inserts if I needed too much camera stuff. So for the Lowepro, have you got straps going from the backrest through the belt packs and then under the bag or do the straps come from the outside of the rucksack through and back? Any chance of a picture of your creation?</p>

<p>Anyone using the Mountainsmith bags?</p>

<p>Hi,<br /><br /><br /><br />I've been looking around a lot of late at bags to try and find<br />something that will actually fit in with real life, not the camera bag<br />makers dream world that I certainly don't live in!<br /><br /><br /><br />I am drawn at the moment to lumbar packs such as the mountainsmith<br />range to act primarily as a day to day always with me camera bag be<br />that shoulder or lumbar fit. Seems that with the lumbar straps folded<br />away these bags emulate the classic camera bag a bit and gain some of<br />the ease of use that the classic camera bag has. When 'on the hip' it<br />can be carried with reasonable comfort, something the average shoulder<br />bag fails on.<br /><br /><br /><br />However, when I travel places, I need to take more, much more than<br />just lenses etc., all within the restrictive flight regulations. This<br />usually includes laptop, chargers, book(s), tickets, passports,<br />jumper, etc., etc..Currently I stuff my Orion Trekker to the max to<br />travel with, but then when I get places, I don't really want to work<br />out of a rucksack. I know the newer Orion with separate upper and<br />lower parts is verging on what I'm after but I find the upper part of<br />my current Trekker a bit restrictive space wise.<br /><br /><br /><br />I also like to go hiking in the hills and this is where the Orion is<br />woefully too small for non camera stuff, as is most (all?) combination<br />camera bags I can see. Currently I either make do with the Trekker or<br />stick the camera stuff in a larger 'proper' rucksack.<br /><br /><br /><br />So, finally a question!, does anyone know of a lumber pack like the<br />Mountainsmith's that can attach in some sensible way to a rucksack to<br />create one single bag for airport restrictions, simple combined<br />carrying but still allow access to the camera section if needed? I<br />like the Thinktank rotation 360, but the rucksack isn't usable with<br />the lumbar pack (and it's pretty heavy to start with). I have no<br />fixation with camera specific bags, happy to add inserts etc. to get<br />what I want.<br /><br /><br /><br />I have this idea of a rucksack that has no lumbar strap of it's own<br />(15-20L ish) that I keep my day to day stuff in and generally have<br />with me (compact camera always on board) and<br />zipped/clipped/velcroed/whatever to this can be a good lumbar pack<br />that together resembles a 'proper' rucksack with lumbar strap. Do I<br />need to get my sewing kit out?<br /><br /><br /><br />Thanks in advance!<br /><br /><br /><br />Craig.</p>

<p>Just to provide a bit of feedback, I tried the fitting from an old folding MF camera ever ready case and as it has a longer thread than the tripod adapter plate, it's found enough left to grip his wee compact nicely. Should it end up working lose I can apply some adhesive to keep it there.</p>

<p>Many thanks for all the great suggestions.</p>

<p>Craig</p>

<p>Thanks for all the responses - I think I have one of those old ever ready cases with the holding screw in that Paul mentioned. Should fix it up fairly well I'd think, after all this isn't a heavy long lensed SLR, just a cheapish compact.</p>

<p>Bush, bushing - yeah maybe! I did post after a 12 hour day at work so I wasn't firing on all cylinders!</p>

<p>Glad there is a solution, wouldn't want early equipment failure to put my son off photography, even if most of the time he makes cartoons from it!, given his patience and amount of post processing maybe I can get him doing all my computer developing work?</p>

<p>Thanks again,</p>

<p>Craig.</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>My son has a Kodak easyshare compact camera which he uses on a tripod regularly to take series of still shots of lego scenes to make animated films.</p>

<p>Sadly his camera has a plastic tripod bush and I guess his 11 year old hands have been too rough with the metal tripod adapter and now the bush has had the threads totally stripped. The tripod plate slides in and out without really catching at all, so I guess it's too worn to be rethreaded.</p>

<p>Anything about that could be poured in to then cut a new thread into maybe?</p>

<p>Thanks in advance,</p>

<p>Craig.</p>

<p>Rob,</p>

<p>Hope the Welta is a good one, they usually are. Just for completeness or for anyone else looking for this sort of camera, the Ensign Autorange 220 also caters for both formats using a reversible film counter wheel (I've forgotten to change this once before and ended up taking 12 645's instead of 16 on a film!) Unlike many older folders, these have hinged metal plates that stay permanently in the camera so don't get lost, you just have to remember to match up the couter wheel to the mask setting when you load a film up.<br>

The 220 Autorange moves the whole front lens board back and forth, coupled with a rangefinder, to focus instead of just the front element and some were shipped with a fine Tessar lens, although mine only has the Ensar lens, it does a mighty fine job.<br>

The other thing to look into with any folder is making sure it is all light tight, the lens board comes out true to the film plane and that the shutter fires at least close to the markings. Most of these things are not too hard to resolve with a bit of patience though. Good luck.</p>

<p>Craig.</p>

<p>Matt, where did you find such a ring? is there something that can be adjusted to fit differing lens diameters?</p>

<p>Steve, I came across those, not sure if it'll reach the front, seen any dimensions anywhere? Wonder what size the magnetic fixings come in - might be a natty way around the problem!</p>

<p>I have recently become a proud owner of a couple of MF folding camera's (still trying to decide which one I like the best, might keep a couple :-) and mostly they have no filter thread on the lens. With them being front cell focusing I can see that a cokin filter holder might be a bit awkward, but I wondered if anyone has managed to get filters onto any of these (prefer cokin square style as I have the filters already!</p>

<p>My folders include an early Voigtlander Bessa, an Ensign 16-20 Selfix and an Ensign Autorange 220. The 220 does have a thread and moves the whole lens board to focus - not sure of the size though, the other two are push fit only.</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

<p>Craig.</p>

<p>I know before I even ask, the best solution to my problem is to through away and buy new, but I would rather not add to landfill if I can help it!</p>

<p>I came across an old (5+ years) concertina bottle of fixer. The chemical is obviously shot, but, is there a way to clean out the bottle fully? Always was the problem with this type of container. The old fixer has left a solid deposit stuck to the bottom (and sides) of the bottle. Any suggestions on how to clean it?</p>

<p>Rather pleasingly the unopened TMax developer that went out of date in 1994, worked a dream!</p>

<p>Craig.</p>

<p>Thanks guys, fairly sure I'll get the window reglazed now.</p>

<p>Makes sense, thanks Jeff.</p>

<p>I'd rather not destroy one old timer to fix another if I can help it though. Just seems wrong to me - camera organ donor cards?!?</p>

<p>Looking to fix up an old 120 roll camera (Ensign Autorange 220 - beautiful machine) but the red plastic window on the rear door has been split at somepoint. I know I could just tape over it, and as this camera only needs it to find frame number 1, it should all work fine, but I'd rather restore it properly if I can.</p>

<p>I can't seem to find a supplier of the stuff, presumably I can just cut out anything that's the right thickness and colour - anyone been here before/got sensible suggestions?</p>

<p>Many thanks,</p>

<p>Craig.</p>

<p>Actually the bellows look to be in good condition, but one of the supports struts is broken/missing and the metal plate the lens attaches to is a bit bent/thin so I doubt if it ever had much focus to speak of, probably relied on the fact the 6x9 contact prints would be all it have to achieve. Haven't had the chance to get the bellows into a dark cupboard with a torch yet.<br>

I'm intending selling it on the big auction site, as I have 6 folders in my possession just now and I never intended becoming a collector! I was hoping to find out a bit more about it to give a bit of background for the buyers.<br>

As to pronouncing the name, I've heard that the London way is "Ran - lay"</p>