1815photography

One good way to see the true difference is to go to a camera store and try a fast prime on a crop

sensor then on a full frame, both with the aperture wide open. When I bought my full frame camera

when I was deciding between full frame and staying with a DX sensor, doing that comparison sealed

the deal for me and I bought my full frame on the spot. Seeing the bokeh difference immediately

side by side did it.

<p>In the EXIF like it was said before and you even have the option of having it displayed in grid view as one of the 4 bits of data you have displayed on every photo.</p>

<p>Looks like Joe covered the usual suspects. Interested to see what the issue is. I'm putting my money on you accidentally changing to raw+jpeg. That's about the easiest thing to do on accident.</p>

<p>Well there is a built in IR receiver in the SB900 for the Nikon Creative Lighting system. I have a D3s and I use the SU800 to trigger my SB800s. The great thing about the SU800 is that it transmits TTL info to the flashes. Up until recently I was using the built in controller built into my D200 and occasionally on shoots I would have line of sight issues. Today will be the first day that I really put the SU800 to the test. If you don't want to have to worry about line of sight issues since the SU800 is infrared, I'd stick with the pocket wizards. You may be able to get some smaller devices but make sure they work as well. </p>

<p>Have you tried multiple lenses? Do you correct the problem by removing the battery? If not then how do you correct it? What do you consider a high actuation count? The next question is slightly random. What version firmware does your camera have?</p>

<p>Smaller f number, bigger opening, more light gets in. (the image below is from Wikipedia)<br /> <img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/87/Aperture_diagram.svg" alt="" width="462" height="184" /><br /> I wouldn't say ambient light. Just say light, flash, ambient, whatever, it's light. Wider apertures also make the depth of focus narrower. Check the Wikipedia article out. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture<br /> Shoot, chimp (check the image in the camera LCD) to see if you're getting the results, if you like what you see keep shooting if you don't adjust your settings.</p>

<p>If I'm just shooting for fun. RAW images with overflow. For a client RAW backup. If I were you and you can fit one week of work on an 8 GB card? Same JPG format you've been using and backup. Whenever I'm being paid I use the backup configuration.</p>

<p>I use a Helios for sun rise/set/angle stuff. For me that comes in really handy. I have a DOF calculator called f/8 and its nice BUT I just haven't really found a use for it. I just wing it</p>

<p>Never heard of that even using LR 3 on both Mac and PC. Is there any other program running that interprets keyboard shortcuts. When you're in Library and you click on the View menu "Go to develop" does have a D next to it (I'm only asking because I'm wondering if there's a way to customize that and it somehow lost the default setting of "D").</p>

<p>I'm with Wouter and Howard. Trust me there would be a HUGE stink about this problem from tons of other D700 owners if it were randomly changing file formats. The QUAL button was depressed when one of the wheels was rotated. I have about 80,000 shutter actuations between 3 Nikon DSLRs and have never had any of them change ANYTHING randomly. </p>

<p>I would check out customer reviews at B&H photo. http://www.bhphotovideo.com. It may help.</p>

<p>I use the same tools in Adobe Lightroom and again it depends on exactly what I'm doing. I wouldn't pick a fixed setting for every situation.</p>

<p>If I were in your shoes I would go for the D7000. As was mentioned I would upgrade to the D7000 instead of the D300s. I own a D200 and with about 49,000 shutter actuations and it's outdated in terms of low light capability. I countered that by only buying lens 2.8 or faster. All of which are NOT DX lenses and they've worked well for me. I just upgraded to a D3s and I WILL NOT be getting rid of my D200. I would hang on to it if I were you. It's a great and very capable backup and I use it with my DX lenses.</p>

<p>I'm a subscriber to the publication LensWork and I also listen to the podcast This Week In Photography (a.k.a. T.W.I.P.). Via both publications I've heard two experienced film photographers with decades of experience say that they have managed to produced prints from digital images with ink jet printers that are better than anything they'd ever done with silver gelatin. I'll try and drum at least one of the URLs to interview and the name of the photographer for you.</p>

<p>I wouldn't call it fun. But the joy in it is best had after you've had a lab not print your work the way you think it should be printed. Seeing a kick ass image you've captured printed the way you KNOW it should be printed is a thrill (despite the pain in the ass aspects of printing).</p>

<p>No tripod. I'm betting this taken with a camera that has really low high ISO noise and a fast lens. I get usable images with my D3s up to ISO 12800 and there is definitely enough light here for that. Here's an ISO 8000 image that I straightened but that was the only modification. This is taken with a 50mm f/1.4 in a pretty dim restaurant.</p>

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<p>I think that it would try to balance it. Honestly I would just experiment and see for myself. You'll see in seconds if it does or not. And why use a skylight filter when you have full control over white balance digitally within the camera?</p>

<p>You can see it using Mac preview and Adobe Photoshop as well.</p>

<p>Check out the approved list of memory cards on Nikon's website. Here is the approved list for the D7000.<br /> http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/17061<br>

DON'T GO CHEAP ON MEMORY. ALL MEMORY IS NOT THE SAME.</p>

<p>Kees. Thanks for bringing FlipBoard to our attention. Pretty cool.</p>

<p>Yes, both, but increasing the bottom line is not as direct with Twitter. I would say that right now the majority of my photographic income is coming from leads on Facebook (granted I'm just starting out). My portrait work ends up being word of mouth mainly through my personal page and not my fan page. The fan page has been good for promoting iPhone and iPad cases I sell with my photographic work on them. And the majority of those sales are international.<br>

The fan page is also good for determining what demographic your work appeals to, what region (country, city) your fans are from, languages they speak, and how they're getting to your fan page. The stats (called Insights) on Facebook fan pages are a watered down version of Google Analytics (stats for your non-Facebook pages that you have to set up). The info can be used to effectively market yourself via Facebook and Google Ads. That's another discussion though. <br>

As for Twitter, for now, people who follow me can see the latest photographic work that I share. It keeps my name fresh in their minds when they or someone they know is looking for a portrait photographer.<br>

It's good that those links are added to your website. FB and Twitter are the two biggest ways for people to share your work with potential customers.</p>

<p>You should check out the exhibit at the Chicago Cultural Center (if you are in or near Chicago). There are also two blogs another website and a Flickr account set up by John Maloof, the gentleman that discovered her work at an auction.<br>

http://vivianmaierphotography.wordpress.com/<br>

http://www.vivianmaier.blogspot.com/<br>

http://www.vivianmaierphotography.com/<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/55726459@N07/<br>

What a phenomenal story. Who knows what else is out there that we're missing.</p>

<p>In order by frequency of use.<br>

Mostly A to control D.O.F.<br>

S for when I want to have moving objects clear and not blurry or if I want to convey movement and purposely blur.<br>

P for just goofing around<br>

M for situations where A, S and P are failing me and the camera isn't giving me what I want.</p>

<p>Choose your "experts" carefully. There are people out there who think they know what the hell they're doing and don't. I've done several successful recoveries of my own data and the best method from my experience is (and I don't recommend this for everyone but I'm just posting this to share the knowledge).<br>

1. (just like others have said) Don't use the machine at all. The data for your photos is there but it's just marked by the hard drive as space that is now available to be written over. Even when you open a program it may be writing temp files or adding to logs or what have you that are overwriting recently deleted data.<br>

2. Remove the hard drive and connect it to another machine. I like to use this device (<a href="http://ppa-usa.com/hard-drive-adapter-3-in-1-connector.html">http://ppa-usa.com/hard-drive-adapter-3-in-1-connector.html</a>) instead of cracking the case open and putting the drive in another machine. Your drive will show up as a USB drive.<br>

3. Then I use this Undelete software, I've used it for years with much success. <a href="https://www.diskeeper.com/undelete/home/home-edition.aspx?wid=4&s=A4">https://www.diskeeper.com/undelete/home/home-edition.aspx?wid=4&s=A4</a>. The quicker you stop using your PC after an accidental deletion the better chances of this software recovering your data.<br>

As far as making backups, this is what I do.<br>

PC (what I used to use) - Memeo backup software backing up data to a mirrored 1 TB network storage device (<a href="http://www.netgear.com/home/products/storage/simplesharing/default.aspx">http://www.netgear.com/home/products/storage/simplesharing/default.aspx</a>). But that's ONLY my image data and Lightroom catalogs.<br>

Mac (what I use now) - TimeMachine backup of the entire machine to an external 2 TB hard drive AND the method mentioned above.<br>

And I burn DVDs every 3 months or so.<br>

These are all fire and forget backups. When you make changes its on top of the backups like white on rice. <br>

We put too much time into our photography to skimp on backing up.</p>

<p>I was about to mention that I use the one built in to my D200. To answer your question, no I don't know of an adapter, and I'm sure that's by design. So it's just personal preference, you'll still be able to do time lapse.</p>