chris_laudermilk

"Hassleblad "

"Crap! Misspelled Hasselblad in my post above!! Sorry!"

 

LOL Freudian slip considering the difficulty finding supplies? :D

Both focus and aperture setting. The A/M switch manually sets the aperture to your desired setting--you have to move this switch to stop the lens down since the 645AF doesn't do it like the M645 bodies do.

Yep, don't worry. Damage is unlikely, won't affect use ,and from what I hear is relatively inexpensive & easy to replace. My 20D is over 3 years old, 80,000+ shots & dragged all over the place--still no scratches.

I'm still earning myself and am in the midst of playing with color films (haven't yet dipped my toe into slide film yet). However, for B&W I can add my voice to the Acros chorus. I really like my results from that film.

The AF markings are on a separate screen. You leave that one in, as well as the shim & just replace the main focus screen. Nothing but upside on this add-on.

I've been researching these macro lenses recently as well. Right now I'm debating between the Sigma and Tamron. All the reviews I've read basically said they're every bit as good as the Canon, so I'll happily take the non-OEM price discount.

I currently use a L-358 with my 645Pro. I do find that I'd like a spot meter with it at times, eventually I plan to get a used Pentax digital spot. Until you can get a separate meter, the DSLR should do

I see people asking about the bestpricecamera scam at least weekly on another forum. We all there steer them towards resellerratings. It's also fairly obvious that shopcartusa site is a total scam to help sucker people in.

 

Rico: it IS too good to be true. It's a well-known scam site & you won't get anything but a headache and hassle from those guys.

 

What's really amazing is the local authorities allow these guys to continue in business. They have nearly 600 complaints filed with BBB, half in the last year. For a little camera shop. You'd think someone would do something.

This is a lesson all computer users learn sooner or later. Like you said, backup, backup, backup. Two copies on HDD, one stored remotely. I used to use DVDs, but discovered they are unsuitable for backups or archives as the lifespan is far too short; it's still a new, undeveloped technology.

"I am very happy with the results and have release from what was called in the early days of 35mm cameras, machine gun photography."

 

Same feeling here. I went with a Mamiya 645Pro myself, but the same effect: you slow way down.

 

Digital has the same machine-gun effect--at least at first. I've found the 645 has calmed my trigger finger even on the DSLR--even with the rapid-action events I shoot with the digital.

 

At this point I now chuckle at both the film and digital snobs. Both are wrong. :D Different tools for different results & sometimes different jobs. I see the grass is nice and green on both sides of the fence, so I carved a gate in it.

Like Lawrence said, they are used only with the AE prism, otherwise ignore them. You also have to press the little release button to get off them.

 

You might want to go here for the manual: http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_645_pro/mamiya_645_pro.htm

I walked this path a while back. I ended up going with the 645Pro because it seemed to be the most capable of the older manual Mamiyas short of the TL version & I don't need TTL flash metering. So that along with a 120 back, non-metered prism, 80/2.8N lens and WG401 power grip ended up costing me about $350 through KEH.

 

With prices where they are on these, unless you have specific reasons for it I honestly don't see a reason to go for the older or budget/crippled versions.

 

I use my 645Pro alongside my 20D; it's been great fun getting back to basics with the camera.

"You can get a Kata (or other brand) waterproof cover. Around $130."

 

LOL I'm just trying to get my head around the idea of a $130 cover for a $20 camera. :D

You have two problems: one the lens is way too slow. Really the 70-200/2.8 is probably the best bet unless you are comfortable with primes--but those take some getting used to. The 50/1.8 is a great lens for the price & if it gets close enough for you can be an effective stopgap. F2.8 is plenty fast enough--the 30D can go to ISO 3200 with no problem, so you can shoot in truly awful lighting with it. Once you get going, lens cost will far outstrip that of the body.

 

The second problem is you are letting the camera do the thinking for you. Learn to use the manual settings (Av, Tv, M) and stay away from the P&S modes (the pretty little picture modes). Start off with Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson.

Did anybody even read the link Dave put in the first response before running off on tangents? I don't know about you but I won't assume I'm smarter than Canon's engineers and will go with their reason for doing it. At this point, I agree there is a marketing angle to it as well.

 

Personally I wouldn't repaint the lens, especially black. From the picture it appears to be a 70-200/2.8L IS which does have fluorite elements. Again, I'd figure the engineers know more about it than we do.

"how does the camera recognise the film speed?"

 

It doesn't. ;) This isn't a modern 35mm SLR, there is no coding on the film or any other way for the camera to know. Use your lightmeter to determine proper exposure, then set the camera manually. Without an AE prism the camera doesn't have anything to set that for anyway.

 

Oh, and as far as weight, my 20D+grip with a 24-70/2.8 lens is heavier than my 645Pro, WG401, prism, and 80mm lens. Forget about when the 70-200/2.8 is on there! The 645 is great for landscapes, tripod or not. No reason to confine it to the studio.

That is a 1.6 crop camera--slim is NOT necessary. I've used a polarizer on a 20D at 12mm with no vignetting (the dark corners mentioned). However, as Colin mentions, the polarizing effect may not be even across the frame at 17mm--it's hit or miss there.

 

As for where to get one, I would suggest a B+W through hvstar.net.

""Last I checked e-bay they went for $600-800.00"

 

What was it that circus guy said about every minute?"

 

:D That's a good reason to be wary of ebay. KEH is far better (got my entire rig for $350 & it works perfectly).

 

To the OP, for $30 is certainly worth it. Even if the body turns out bad & you have to get another from KEH, you're still ahead with the lens & prism. Good buy!

"Just don't expect a bunch of nice display cases, it's very crowded with a huge amount of equipment."

 

That's the BEST kind of shop! :D Near me I have one shop that's beautiful, nice slick cases with new gear in them artfully displayed all around, big & airy, and one shop that is packed with gear, basic old glass counters full of used gear, no drop ceiling. Guess which one I always go to?

 

Anyway, I'd also suggest getting your gear all lined up well in advance. Buying when there you're at the mercy of local prices & stock.

"... And you have to change your stuff at least each 2 years..."

 

Really? So does some big guy come around to your place every 2 years and twist your arm behind your back until you've ordered all-new gear? Funny, he hasn't been to my place.

 

Oh, and you all sent the above messages via telegraph, not computer...right? Remember the old saying about throwing stones while in a glass house.

Basically what Walang said. This "bad copy" buzz has gotten so overblown in the last few months it's comical. It's to the point that new users are completely paralyzed and won't buy anything.

I have the Katz Eye screen on my 20D, and, no it does not affect metering. From their website, it's apparently the Rebels that have about a 1/3 stop difference--but I cannot comment directly there.

 

As for manual focusing, it helps immensely. I am very happy with the screen.

I'll third the RRS. Love mine.

 

Kirk's bracket looks to be just as good as the RRS one, with a couple unique nice features. Either one will serve you well.

As has been mentioned, there are optical differences, one has the IS unit the other doesn't. In practice there is little difference between them. I've used several copies of the IS and now own the non-IS, if anything my non-IS is a bit sharper than all the IS lenses, but that may be just luck of the draw. From my experience IS has little to no effect on battery life, I typically leave IS on when using any IS lens. AF speed is close enough to the same that I cannot tell the difference, on either version it's quick. The biggest difference between the lenses is $500 on the pricetag.

Honestly, I had the same initial reaction as Keith. If you want a P&S, buy a P&S. Getting an SLR implies you want more control over the process.

 

I'm not being snotty or anything--there are times I use my 20D as a P&S & just run JPEGs out of it, but I went with a DSLR because I want control over the processing in most cases.