gregory_king1
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Posts posted by gregory_king1
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<p>Specifically, the 3952 has been discontinued, but AFAIK, the 3951 was discontinued long ago, when the 3952 was released.</p>
<p>The description implied that the 3952 was just a reprogrammable version of the 3951.</p>
<p>The odd thing is...they are not interchangeable. The 3951 is larger, and will not mount on a 54 flash. It'll mount on a 40, though. I can't recall if it'll mount on a 70/76.</p>
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<p>Fine, Ray. Make the rest of us look massively inferior. Sheesh. ;-)<br>
<br />(Well done...)</p>
<p>On a side note, did you notice the Metz 645AF module is discontinued?</p>
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<p>Ah, good question.</p>
<p>Meaning, you have to use the heavy AE viewfinder? Yes, the 645AF is much easier to use with its built-in VF.</p>
<p>Advantages? Autofocus, obviously. And auto-flash control. But, no 1/400 sync...only 1/125. Shooting 1/500 leaf shutter lenses is only possible on 645 non-AF bodies.</p>
<p>I literally scanned 645AF last night, and am scanning RZ67 right now. Obviously, 6x7 gives you over 50% more resolution.</p>
<p>At the prices these days, you can almost shoot both. ;-)</p>
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<p>My only reason for not upgrading to the A77 was I want all the advantages Glenn mentioned...in one camera. So I'm waiting for the A99. :-)</p>
<p>I have the A550 and A55 in the interim. The A550 is better imagewise than the A700, even though it loses some features. And the A55 gives me some of the benefits of the A77.</p>
<p>My only complaint is the A77 doesn't have the tethered shooting ability that the A700 has.</p>
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<p>Will,<br /><br />It's been a while since I've done or discussed this, so bear with me if I mix some stuff up.</p>
<p>Regarding the triggering flash, in OTF metering the controlling flash did tell the off-board flash when to shut off. It also does it this way with Metz A-mode metering. Neither uses a pre-flash to pre-measure the exposure. So two events were required...trigger-on and trigger-off, if you will. Since the triggering flash was also contributing to the exposure, it probably just turned off and the remote did the same on cue. But I can't recall how they did it with ratio...somehow one flash turned off after half the exposure was completed. So, SOME end-trigger was in there somehows. (IIRC...)<br /><br />But you're right...for this discussion, for Sony remote flash, the metering is done and the flash duration sent to the remote flashes ahead of time via coded message. The on-board flash then acts as a trigger, sending a single pulse. This "pollution" also contributes to the exposure.<br /><br />But in HSS mode, the on-board flash still only fires once. It cannot multi-pulse. So its contribution as a triggering device is done before that first curtain has started moving.<br /><br />The off-board flash doing the exposure responds to the trigger and fires multi-pulses for the requisite 1/160 of a second.<br>
I haven't tried this using a shoe-flash as a controller. Not sure if it works differently.</p>
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<p>Good info from Will.<br /><br />One item I didn't see...if you force the camera into HSS mode, the on-board flash will not contribute at all. The triggering flash fires before (and possibly after) the entire exposure is conducted. Your exposure will have to be faster than 1/160 or more depending on camera.</p>
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<p>Having fun yet? ;-)<br /><br />Yes, it's trying to load the film. Dry firing is possible if you leave the back door open.</p>
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<p>Mamiya 645 AF Screen C Microprism is available. I decided to go with a normal matte screen with silly frame lines for my 36x48 back....which given the 1.1 crop factor, don't do much. :-)</p>
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<p>Correct...most of them. Some are 1/500. Worse, they are 1/60 x-sync, even on the 645 Pro.<br /><br />Of course, the MF bodies can use 1/500 leaf shutter lenses, which the 645AF(D) cannot.</p>
<p>But then, when I really want leaf shutters, I use the RZ, which is much simpler to use than the 645 LS lenses.</p>
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<p>1. The AF systems are identical in these respects. Both are auto stop down with AF lenses, but manual with MF lenses. Standard screens are poor for manual focus.<br>
2. MF cameras (I have the 645E) will auto-stop-down with MF lenses. They also provide a much better MF screen.<br>
3. There is one or two 6mp backs that work on the 645AF. I wouldn't bother with them. All the newer backs (post 2004 or so) are only compatible with the 645AFD.<br>
4. There is a standard hood made for that lens. It's a little rare. It's rubber and folds back.The 80 1.9 has a larger filter size (67mm IIRC) than the 80mm 2.8. I'm not sure there are many (if any) Mamiya m645 lenses with the same filter size.</p>
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<p>Yes, the controlling flash always fires...it is an optical trigger, not a radio trigger. <br>
Minolta made an IR-only trigger that could be mounted on their film cameras. This capability was not carried over to digital, as it uses a slightly different flash control method.<br>
Ironically, you can put exposed film over your flash to reduce its output in the visible range without preventing IR signal passthrough. <br>
The on-camera flash worked best as the signalling device, because its contribution was small in the first place. Using the 43 as the controller is a bit of a waste if you don't want its output to contribute.<br>
I'm not sure exactly how ratio works, but I suppose you can limit the on-camera flash to 1/3 of the output instead of 1/2 (non-ratio). Also, if you put the the off-camera flash closer to the subject, its contribution will increase.</p>
<p>Hope this helps.</p>
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<p>Just to clarify the confusion... ;-)<br>
Minolta/Rokkor lenses ARE manual focus. They can be used on the NEX with a cheap adapter. They are cheap.</p>
<p>Minolta Maxxum lenses are AUTO focus. They can be used on the NEX with that expensive adapter. They are a bit less cheap, because for the price of that adapter, you can buy an Alpha DSLR or DSLT and use those lenses directly.<br /><br /><br>
The downside with going the Alpha route is it cannot be adapted to use the Rokkor lenses (without image degrading glass and/or other issues).</p>
<p>In my opinion, the NEX is an optimum solution if you want/need a small flexible travel cam, and/or have a lot of legacy glass you want to go digital with. </p>
<p>As far as buying the 50mm 1.4, I expect the added benefit on an APS-C sensor will be minimal. The cheaper 50mm lenses work well enough. But as you said, the additional cost over time is relatively small.</p>
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<p>I read that it could be the lens somewhere before.<br>
<br />But I also have a body that I bought which only shoots in 1/400 as well. Fortunately, it was advertised that way. I haven't opened it up to fiddle with.</p>
<p>Sounds like you made a lot of effort to fix everything you could. Try to find another lens to try out.</p>
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<p>You could be right on the lenses. I guess I thought that the newness of NEX lenses tended to make them more expensive than legacy lenses (like a $100 50mm for an SLR vs $200 for a ILC).</p>
<p>But maybe I was thinking more of the Oly/Panny lenses for 4/3.</p>
<p>Check out the getdpi forum. Those guys tend to be "more pro" than most of the other forums it seems, and the Sony forum there is almost exclusively NEX. So, obviously, they know something I don't. ;-)</p>
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<p>Why??? What is your current camera not doing for you?<br>
You'll lose a few things:<br>
1. Phase detect AF<br>
2. Viewfinder<br>
3. Comfortable ergonomics with larger lenses<br>
4. Lower cost lenses</p>
<p>Personally, I find little value in NEX or 4/3. They perform like P&S cameras, but with DSLR image quality. They cost more than equivalent DSLR lenses, but are lighter in weight.<br /><br />I have a u4/3 camera solely for skiing. I can't use it indoors or in situations where I need fast AF, so to me it's barely better than a P&S camera.</p>
<p>Granted...plenty of people appreciate NEX. I'm just not sure why. I guess I don't value size over function. :)</p>
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<p>As Jeremy said, Mamiya M645 options are plentiful, with cheap manual focus lenses. The 645E has a fixed viewfinder with AE, and older models like the 1000S have waist level finders and prism finders with or without exposure control. </p>
<p>You could easily get out under $200 with an 80mm 2.8 lens and add a 45/55mm and 150mm for under $100 each. Unless prices have gone up in the last year, which I doubt.</p>
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<p>Randy,<br>
Almost correct. The sensor is in exactly the same spot. Moving it would destroy the ability to focus properly.<br>
The reason your DOF changes is because you have to back up to frame the same image with the crop camera. Since DOF is a function of focus distance, it goes up.<br>
Take the same image from the same spot with the same lens at the same aperture on two cameras (crop and FF) and you'll get the same image with the same DOF. One is just cropped.</p>
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<p>Nope, most of the cameras only go to ISO 200...it's the native ISO setting. Some models go to 100, but it's somewhat "artificial"...it forces a one stop overexposure then push processes it down a stop, so you lose dynamic range.</p>
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<p>The bid increment has nothing to do with the starting price. It's set by the current price, and increases as the price increases. (At least in the USA).<br>
<br />If an item has high demand, starting the auction low is not a big concern. But if there is also a high supply, then running an auction will likely result in lower prices. Buy It Now/Best Offer offers price control, buyer control, and time control. Many buyers may not want the wait and uncertainty of an auction, and may pay a couple bucks more to get it this week instead of next week.</p>
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<p>The newer Sony 58 flash will work as well. It will have better performance on the A33, due to the faster recharge speed, higher power and (mainly) the corrected auto-zoom. It recognizes the APS-C crop factor and zooms the flash to compensate. The 56 will not, resulting in lost light due to overly wide dispersion.<br /><br />The 58 may lose a small bit of functionality on the 7, because I don't think it will do TTL OTF metering. It will always pre-flash, IIRC. This may have a small affect on flash accuracy, and some prefer single flash to avoid blinking.</p>
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<p>Actually, you only need one bid above reserve to sell...but I don't recommend reserve prices. They cost you 2% at last check, and it's not refunded anymore. Plus, I think they actually reduce the tendency of people to bid.</p>
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<p>A little research confirms that a 4-pin port has no power. Things like this can be used to inject power, but you still need a 12V source.<br>
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<p>Not much to show...just buy a 12v CCTV battery and splice it to a 6-pin 1394 connector. Just make sure you get the wiring correct... ;-)<br>
You can either plug it into one port if you have two, or get a power injector connector that puts it inline.</p>
<p>I think Chris is talking about a Mac setup. I'm not sure any PC laptops have powered 1394...most don't have 1394 at all. But I also thought the 4-pin connector couldn't handle power. After all, that's what the 2 other pins are for.</p>
Mamiya AFD2 AF-Confirm - Accurate?
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