gregory_king1

<p>Yes, I have the Arsat. Maybe it's not sharp in the corners, but heck, it's a fisheye! Not sure why it would matter....or how one would even tell.<br>

I'm sure the Hassy is 10x as good, otherwise it wouldn't cost so much, right? :-)</p>

<p>The Russian company (name escapes me) made a 30mm fish, with a Mamiya mount which was removeable. So I'm sure it was configured to work on other cameras.<br>

I got mine for $150 and it works fine.</p>

<p>I think I'd agree with Gary. I have both 645AF and RZ and have never thought of using my 645 back on the RZ. If I'm going to waste my time with that hulking camera, I'm going to get every inch of film out of it. ;-)<br>

I rarely go above 11x14, so maybe the image size doesn't buy me much. Worse, my hit rate with manual focus, compounded by the smaller DOF, seems to work against me too.<br>

In any case, I have the back and I have the VF mask, and if you have anything you'd like me to check out, I'd be happy to.<br /><br />Greg</p>

<p>These cost estimates seem way off.<br>

All the computer stuff he either already has, or needs for DSLR work anyways<br /><br />I got my 645AFD and tethered back for $1000. I've seen non-tethered kits go for $3000-3500. I shoot my back mobile using a laptop.<br>

A NEW ZD back goes for $3750.<br>

Conclusion: $5000 would go a long ways in the current market.</p>

<p>A recent thread mentioned west coast imaging at having a good scanning service for about $12 a roll (120) or $24 for 220. That's $1 a shot, which is good...IF all your shots are worth keeping. <br>

I get a decent-enough results out of my V500, but my time is cheap. Considering upgding to the 750 for wetmountability, better Dmax, and better software, particularly the printer profiling software.<br>

The issue with negatives is the orange base. You can't just invert the image...it turns blue. I did a quick test on some 120 film, and PS couldn't automatically correct it. I'm sure there is a setting somewhere to do it, but it's built-in to the negative scanning feature of the photo scanners. They know how to automatically take out the orange. <br>

You also get ICE which is great to get rid of dust.<br>

I'll have to try one of those duplicators. The V500 just doesn't have enough horsepower to blast through the dense Kodachome slides. I want to say my old $99 Costco scanner was better, but I'm sure my expectations have just increased. ;-)<br>

Greg</p>

<p>Which slide duplicator do you use? I'm tempted to get one for my Kodachomes.<br>

Although, you'll probably get less value out of one for 120 film. I wouldn't think it would work well for negatives (right?), and Kodachrome 120 is gone, so you're left using it for E6 and B/W. <br>

A cheap scanner like the V500 does a decent job on MF and can do negatives.</p>

<p>Lesson of the Day: Don't buy Sigma lenses. :-)<br>

No way to fix it...the gear tooth on the inside of the focus ring is probably stripped. My first Sigma lens did this, and Sigma wouldn't even bother to send me the correct replacement part. They shipped the wrong one and I had to send it back. They shrugged and just refunded my money. I was out shipping costs. I learned my lesson FAST.<br>

Their lenses are cheap for a reason. Granted, I'm a bit surprised that the 24-70 2.8 failed...I thought that was a higher-end lens. As Robert noted, it's the cheaper telezooms that seem to be the major culprits.<br>

Good luck getting it fixed. Sell it quickly. ;-)<br /></p>

<p>Interesting info. I've only shot it on 35mm so far, and ISO 100. I found it noticeably sharper and easier to scan than other film. <br>

This reference says stick with ISO100, though.<br>

<a href="http://darktopography.blogspot.com/2009/04/ektar-100-in-120-darktopo-review.html">http://darktopography.blogspot.com/2009/04/ektar-100-in-120-darktopo-review.html</a></p>

<p>Steve,<br>

I'll give them a try. Too bad their 220 prices are much higher than 120.</p>

<p>Try Dwayne's Photo. $4 a roll for processing, or around $8 with prints. Shipping is $4, plus 50 cents a roll.<br>

I've found it's not worth getting the prints OR the scans, because they aren't worth more than for proofing. This goes for ALL photo processors, not just Dwayne's. The auto-scan and auto-print settings are always WAY off. and there's much more info to be had in the film.<br>

I scan on the $200 V500 and it works well enough. I'm sure the V700 or V750 would be better, but I figure for my purposes, the 500 is good enough.<br>

I rarely print over 11x14, and if for some reason I did, I could always pay for a drum scan.</p>

<p>You have two issues, software and hardware.<br>

1. Software: You have to be able to run Capture One on your computer. The version you want is 3.7.8, if I recall correctly. Version 4 wasn't set up to work with the H10, and I presume won't work perfectly with the H20. If nothing else, I didn't get to set ISO above 100. Not that that was any loss. ;-)<br>

Capture One should also provide a key for the DB version of that software for you. They are very helpful.<br>

I doubt you need much horsepower.<br>

2. Hardware: You have to be able to power the firewire as I mentioned above. I don't recall any laptops providing six-pin powered firewire, including Apple. I got the impression that only Apple gave you BUILT-IN firewire, but it was the 4-pin type.<br>

But I have never had an Apple laptop...<br>

<br />Greg</p>

<p>One comment...the newer AF bodies don't work as well with the older MF lenses.<br>

1. You have to open-up focus, and stop-down meter. This can be a problem in certain conditions. You get focus confirmation, but you need it because the focusing screen is harder to use than with the older cameras. So you have to focus wide open, then manually roll the aperture to your selected stop. Lather, rinse, repeat.<br>

2. You cannot use the leaf shutter lenses. (The sync is 1/125, though...so no big loss).<br>

This is probably why the last Pros are worth almost as much as the 645AF's. Sometimes I get tempted to get a 1000S to drive my MF lenses, if for no other reason than to enjoy the focusing. :-)<br>

Greg</p>

<p>Of course it is...but not much more than shooting medium format in the first place. ;-)<br>

It's very "Ghostbusters"...laptop in the backpack running a firewire cable to the camera. The battery is in the backpack as well, and plugs into the other firewire port on the PCMCIA 1394 adapter. This energizes the common (but unpowered) power circuits with 12v.<br>

If your laptop has a built-in port, especially a 4-pin port, injecting the voltage may be more complicated, but doable. <br>

I use a 1800mah Li-ion battery for $22 from Ebay. It seems to run the back for as long as I need it....probably longer than my laptop or flash battery. Probably a good couple hours of constant shooting.<br>

Granted, you need to shoot these backs at ISO50...ISO100 tops. Beyond that, you get so much noise it's not really worth it. So I'm not sure how much I'll use it mobile....my DSLR is much more usable. But it's cheaper than shooting film...so it fulfills an interesting niche if I want to do outdoor portraits. <br>

And at ISO50, you get to shoot in some pretty bright light without blowing through the 1/125 sync speed. I have the RZ67 with back adapter that can shoot 1/400 sync, but rarely need to use it.<br>

Mine is the H10, which is only 11mp and 3:2, not square. But I think the performance is similar if not identical.<br>

The IQ is outstanding and loves overexposure (expose to the right). I get at least 2x the apparent sharpness of similar resolution photos from my DSLR. I attribute this to the AA filter. Makes me not rush out to by a FF DSLR with twice the resolution.</p>

<p>Ray,<br>

<br /> Good info...thanks. You're right...I dismissed the 150/2.8 and didn't even know about the 45/2.8. But I think given their cost, they might be prohibitive for his use. The 150/2.8 is available in MF for about the same price as the AF f/3.5...so you can trade AF for 2/3 a stop of speed.<br>

I guess above 2.8, things all start to run together for me. It's not fast till it's 2.0 ;-)<br>

I've never had flatness issues like referenced there...and have never even seen a 15 shot back. But I just left a roll in for days...I'll look closely this time.</p>

<p>Bob brings up a good point. The 645AFD has a 1/125 shutter, but it is incompatible with the leaf shutter lenses. Allegedly Mamiya is coming out with some new ones that will be compatible, but they haven't materialized...and will be bloody expensive.<br>

That's my major rationalization for keeping the RZ...getting that extra 1.5 stops of speed with flash.<br>

The non-leaf MF lenses can be used on the 645AF, with focus confirmation. This gives the ability to use cheaper lenses, including the 80mm f/1.9.</p>

<p>I use a similar setup (AFD+H10 back). I can't compare to the D300, but compared to the 12mp files from my A700, I find the digital back files to be at least 2x sharper. <br>

In other words, I can zoom beyond 200% magnification pixel peeping before I see the image degradation I can see with the DSLR at 100%. I presume this is due to the AA filter?<br>

The DR is also superior, as I can pull back highlights very well.<br>

Of course, shooting ISO 50 requires lots of light. Shooting above ISO100 on these backs is generally not recommended.<br>

Then there's the issue of portability. I was able to power mine off a laptop and a 12V battery, so it's pseudo-portable. No instant review, but I can put my backpack on and shoot like the old film days, without the cost and wait for processing. <br>

Greg</p>

<p>I haven't used nor studied the Pentax, so I can't speak to it. But I have both the RZ67 and the 645AF. <br>

Yes, the 645 is essentially similar to a 35mm SLR in terms of portability. I rarely shoot 135 film anymore, because the image quality that can be easily scanned is not better than 12mp digital in my experience. <br>

Now, the new Ektar 100 seems to get an easy step increase in scanability...from say 2400dpi to 3200dpi with equivalent results. (I use the Epson V500) You can go higher or lower depending on your scanner quality and taste for grain. I haven't used it in 120 yet, but I expect similar results...which would give me files MUCH larger than I need. ;-)<br>

I also have a ton of old 120 film, so I'm trying to burn it up before it's obselete. ;-) Just sent in two rolls from the 645 and two from the RZ. Lots of scanning to do...oye!<br>

That said...don't expect the 645AF to be measurable faster than the RB. My RZ lenses are not significantly slower than my 645 lenses. The 110mm is 2.8, the 180mm is f/4, and the 65mm f/4.5 (IIRC), which makes only the 55mm f/2.8 lens for the 645 faster than its counterpart. If you really want speed, 35mm glass is where it's at...the same focal lengths being 1 to 2 stops faster. <br>

I have no issues with my Mamiyas. I can't recall any concern over flatness being mentioned. <br>

I'm not sure about the Pentax, but I use my AFD with a digital back. It's a nice (and expensive) upgradability, but I guess if you're shooting available light...a digital back isn't a real option for you.<br>

Also, the Metz flashes have full automatic (thyristor or TTL) for the Mamiya, plus wireless flash control. So I can share my flashes with my digital SLR. Again, not sure with the Pentax.<br>

I'll be unloading my old 645AF with lenses in a few weeks if you're interested. <br>

Greg</p>

<p>On the RZ67, the LT blinks any time the light is too low, regardless of battery condition. One of my metering prisms is broken, and does the same thing as yours. It's going in for service.<br>

So, my guess is...you bought a camera with a bum meter just like I did.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hmm, I replaced my checker with a split-center version, and I don't recall any issues. The lights are BEHIND the screen, in the camera, as I recall.<br /> <br /> If I can check anything on it, just let me know. I'm shooting it right now.</p>

<p>Greg</p>

Wow, good timing, Balazs. :-)

Phase One gave me a code for the 3.7 version of their software for that back. Version 4 doesn't allow ISO above 100, if I recall.

The H5 and early H10 backs are 6mp. Later H10 backs are 11 MP. There is a serial number identifier you may find online.

I have the H10, and despite the tethering, it works great. I am rigging up a 12V battery pack to run it with my laptop.

Greg

I just visited Walmart and was told they no longer do 120. They even called Fuji to confirm.

Anyone else confirm this, or did I run into a whole passel of idiots?

Greg