pico

Grant, with respect - you posted to the wrong group.

Please read the FAQ.

Very Best,

http://graphicssoft.about.com/cs/imageediting/tp/budgetphotoedm.htm

Enjoy

Someone else will have to deal with the flash question.

If you shoot wide-open with a long lens, the background is out of focus, and the foregroundn a bit less and each drops in intensity. That helps to feature the infocus faces/torso space. It also lowers the distraction of a background and foreground detail so that the eye sees into the shadows.

What is the aspect ratio of the original image? Does it scale down perfectly to 5x7, or is one

side turning out longer?

None of the above if I understand your intention to be loaner cameras for amateurs who

don't have their own and just want to make snaps of models in the rental studio. Those

blokes need auto-everything. Modern DSLRs would be better.

What, exactly, are you wishing to convey with your camera choices? Quality of format? Brand-

name snobbery? Ease of use? Reliability?

They would have the same DOF if they were both at the same aperture, for example F/5.6,

as you suggested.

Sorry, Art. This issue needs a little more "lawyering". Many performers' images are public

domain by virture of their status in the act of performing. We need to know more of what the

chap is doing. It's most likely that if he is there there, for whatever rationale, then all his

work is available for publication. No release necessary.

We do not know what kind of strange contractual agreements exist in Barbados. There are

contractual technicalities, most of which have British origins. Did you fall into a trap,

perhaps? Regardless, you have my sympathies.

I might be in Barbados for a job in September. Not sure yet.

Oh, and as the fellow above wrote, SIC 'EM!

Good luck. (Folks, it ain't that easy there!)

It's 6x4.5cm. The crank on the back simply moves just far enough to make it so. Hasselblad

also provided a drop-in mask for the finder. I have one, but I can't remember where it is.

At one point they had the temerity to make a 6x4.5cm back that was in the vertical

orientation. It's a rare item that apparently nobody wants. Rare failures are not necessarily

collectible!

Development times for Acufine are not even similar across temperatures. Times vary for

temperatures just as they do for any common single-part developer process. Same for F76.

I wouldn't wait to process film. Do some early and avoid disappointments. Make mistakes

early, not later with a dozen rolls to process.

If you did not get an instruction manual, then go here to download it. Look to the right

middle of the page.

http://www.leica-camera.us/photography/m_system/m7/

Technical specs are there, too.

But briefly the M7 meters at the the focal plane in a 'flat' configuration. No matrix. The

picture area measured is about 2/3rd the vertical side of your viewfinder frame line, in the

center of the finder.

In Automatic mode It is strictly aperture priority in; the meter cannot change the lens

aperture. With "Automatic" set on the shutter, just set your desired or anticipated F/stop

and the shutter will set itself. Shoot away. There are warning indicators in the finder to tell

you if the camera cannot make an exposure with your chosen aperture - in that case, you

have to adjust the aperture until it can.

The other mode is to take it off Automatic, look through the finder and adjust aperture

and speed until the middle red dot lights up. Again, warnings flash if somethings wrong.

That's the brief. The instruction manual is better. :) It also includes a little tutorial on the

usual about using adequately fast shutter speeds for hand-holding, and of course you

understand the virtues of various aperture settings.

BTW - if you have fiddled with the metering already, you probably found that even with the

switch on, the meter will not activate unless the film is advanced and the shutter is not on

the B setting. OH, and if you remove the lens and advance the film lever, you will see a

white dot on the shutter curtain. The meter reads from a lens aside that looks at that dot.

A separate lens reads flash. And if you find your dot is not perfect white - fear not! It is

not really supposed to be and does not have to be pure white. It's something about paint

on the shutter material that makes it look a bit dull. It's designed to work with it as is.

Enjoy!

<i> $10 each later, from me.</i><p>

oops.

Good stuff! I have some catalogs from the forties and fifties. I will look for them.

FWIW, it seems that Leica has been watching over my shoulder all my life. I got my first M2

with 50mm Summicron in 1966 for $225. It hurt! Today, the M8 is similarly scaled against

my income!

Before you believe the images have become corrupt, try using Photoshop's "Open As" option

for the problematic images and try JPG instead of TIF. It is remotely possible that some of the

images with .TIF extensions are actually .JPG files. Try that before you freak out.

Best of luck.

The math says NO, but many people discover they are happy with the outcomes, regardless.

Can you borrow the camera and try?

My first impression is that people expect to click on the pictures or find roll-overs on them.

The pop-down menu is not conspicuous enough for the typical browser.

Bill - found the manual. <u>Lenses which will not work with the M7 meter</u>

<p>

Hologon 15mm f/8 <br>

Super-Angulon-M 21mm f/4 <br>

Super-Angulon-M 21mm f/3.4 <br>

Elmarit-M 28mm f/2.8 up to Serial No. 2314921

<p>

Hope this helps.

Shooting in the rain can be theraputic to us who absolutely must exercise every day

regardless of weather. Photographing weather is an art unto itself, and not many

photographers work in the rain.

You might find it fun to wrap up the Leica and just shoot! This one was done with a plastic

bag over the camera, rubber-band holding the bag around the outside of the lens filter.

Using a motor wind might be a real benefit. I used a Vit instead.

Ain't no great picture, but it was a good experience.<div></div>

Alexander, are you interested in a lens adapted to your setup or one already plug-n-play

compatible?

If you want to adapt, then if you would measure the lensboard hole we might be able to

make some recommendations. (My guess is that it is 1 1/2" in diameter. No:?)

BTW - If you rack the lens to the far end of its track I think you will see that it will

accomodate a 200mm lens.

Bill, that is a real mystery to me.

The sensor that reads off the white spot would have to be blocked, or your aperture turned

way down in a dark environment. At the moment I am sitting by a lamp with a 60w bulb with

the 35mm lens stopped to F/16 and the speed dial set to Automatic and I have to point to a

dark area to get it to flash like that.

May I ask what lens you are using?

That particular error-code will occur when the lens cap or body cap is on and the speed dial

is set to Automatic. It means that the light level is too low even for a 32 second exposure.

Presuming none of the above is true in your situation, then I'd say you have a repair due.

How about found prints? I have a little 'bot that searches that auction site for my mother's

family name. I was stunned to find a picture of her taken in the thirties during a hike. I

forwarded the image to her to verify, and it was her. She remembers the picture being taken.

It is the only picture of her during that decade. (I did buy it. Something like $2.50)

The seller buys up scrap books and sells the interesting images. Very interesting thing.