friedemann_wachsmuth

<a href="http://www.fotoimpex.de/catalogus_novus_impexi_germanus.pdf">This

place</a> sells the liter concentrate for EUR 4.99. Page 41. I think it actually comes from the

UK.

I have just tested the <a href="http://www.eye.fi/">eye.fi</a> card with a CF adapter

successfully. Its cheap and works great on Mac and Windows.

It takes a few seconds until the shot image is uploaded to your computer, thus you have

time to trash it if you want. Cons: The card is a little slower then my SanDisc Extreme III.

And, it does not transfer RAW files -- probably they are just too big. Shoot RAW+L and

you get the JPG to your computer, the RAW remains on the card for later.

<p>

Hard to beat for $99!

<p>

Oh, you need to have a Wifi acces point, the card can not talk "ad hoc" to a wifi-enabled

computer.

I love Promicrol as substitute for Microphen. Its's cheap, even as one-shot, gives you one free

stop with almost any film for free and pushes really well -- also HP5+.

I got the ground glass now screwed down to the bottom -- that improved things a little bit.

However, I am still missing about 2mm... I opened it up firther and the mirror looks like

being absolutely precise where it should be. Will dig deeper -- any other hint would be

appreciated though :)

Hey there,

I bought a heavily used RB67 Pro-S with the 127mm C-Sekor quite a while ago. After exchanging the

light seals, bending some pins and other minor repairs, its working snappy and reliable -- and I also got

used to the somehow cumbersome handling. I love this camera.

However, I have a weird problem: Focus on the focusing screen differs significantly from the film plane. I

first thought its due to my bad eyes or me being slow, but with aperture wide open, carefully focused on

the eyes, the ears actually get sharp.

I did the test and put vellum drafting paper into the magazine, focused carefully on a big object (about 6

ft away) and checked on the focusing screen: The focusing screen would need to be approx 4mm deeper

into the camera then it is to show the same result!

How can this be? The adjustment screws could not really go that much deeper. The focusing screen is

original, matt side down, looks totally ok and is fitting in well. I suscpected the mirror to be in wrong

position, but after going through the service manual, that is unlikely and its position looking well too.

Any idea or hint anyone would could be wrong? Any help is appreciated. I invested too much time and

sweat into this wonderful camera already to not get it totally working now :)

I have ordered one of these promising looking <a href=http://www.eye.fi/>devices</a>

including the CF adapter. For less then EUR 100 total maybe a good deal -- I expect to get it

this friday and am curious to find out how well it works. Much smaller then the Canon

solution, too...

We might get a little bit off-topic here, but afaik the Bolex K2 can handle 10-200 ASA stock

-- and the light limiting should first happen through the aperture before you change the

shutter sector size... whatever, let us know how the results turned out :-)

You will be excited.

If you try it in Super-8, keep in mind that S8-Cartridges have a notch and better cams can

read the actual ASA. Many cheap ones still recognize them as 160, that would cause a half

stop underexposure only... not too bad.

Last but not least, its daylight material -- so disable the built-in camera filter (switch goes to

lightbulb all the time...)

If you order new double 8mm stock, consider the Ektachrome 100D. Its by far the best

material I ever used -- its colors and sharpness will blow you away. What a color space...

worth every penny! 18 EUR at WIttner is absolutely worth it.

I still have about a dozen of K25 Double-8 in sealed containers, all expired 1975. I used

two of these rolls so far and they turned out ok -- certainley not reference, but still kinda

stylish. You can see some (really bad) projected frame repros <a

href="http://www.peaceman.de/inhalt/schmalfilm/dux/blau/00.SogaUMLhne.in.Saabdeuz

/">here</a>.

<p>

I bought them on ebay, so am not sure how they were stored -- since they are that old, I

would bet on fridge or freezer. At least I kept them in there in the past 5 years.

<p>

Other K40 stock I had showed nothing but very light magenta even though expired 1985

only. I think it really depends on the storage...

<P><p>

Try it!

Wow, this is an excellent and really interesting response. Especially surprising after so many

months -- while the topic is still relevant to me :-)

Thanks so much for all your insight on this. I will definitely do some tests with LAB-color

repros -- at least.

Hey there,

HIE was never slit into 8mm, nor appeared in S8 cartridges.

Slitting it down should theoretically work, since I remember HIE to be pretty thin, so it might run through the cartridge without further lubrication.

However, slitting is not all you need -- you also need the perforation, and that has to be super precise! I think the only companies (beside Kodak) ready for confectioning 35mm into S8 are Kahlfilm (not recommended -- expensive, unreliable, questionable quality across everything) or GK Film (who seem to use some Orwo Lathe for their new Cinevia). Asking at Wittner Cinetek might be worth a try too. However, there are two further caveats:

- All these would probably charge you a fortune for doing this with < 100 rolls.

- As far as I know the all use night sight devices while getting them into the complicated cartridge, which would definitely (at least) fog your HIE.

One more comment: Your self-made IR-filter should be *un*exposed slide film, not exposed one. The frames gotta be dark. And, while I am not a DV expert, I think all CCDs out there are sensitive for IR. Check with a remote control.

Have you tried that with the drill? I think its less optimal then the salad spinner since the

water can not "fly" out easily at the sides.

I like the Lensbaby on the 5D much more then on my analogue EOS -- since just 20% of the

shots become as intended, the baby just does too much what it wants :-)

<p>It is a great toy <i>beside</i> good lenses and definitely more spontaneous than

Photoshop fiddling. This one I made within 3 minutes of fiddling, sitting outside in a small

Cafe:

Hexar, Hexar, Hexar.

<p>I have the Hexar AF Silver always in my EOS 5D bag and I use it a LOT. Stuffed with

Tri-X or Neopan 1600 awaiting Diafine at home, its the perfect camera for exactly the

purpose you described -- stealth photography nobody realizes :-)

<p> Check <a href="http://www.peaceman.de/weat/index.php/Mirjas%

20Geburtstag">this roll</a> of Tri-X at 3200 as it came out of my Hexar -- available

light was 2 or 3 candles at that party.

<p> Only "drawback" (if that is one) is that you are bound to its 35mm lens.

What I do after Photoflo (resp. stabilizer): I put at least two reels (one empty if necessary) in a

salad spinner and crank fast for 30 seconds. I then hang the reels in my Jobo Mistral. Even

without the Mistral -- the spinning leaves no single drop of water on the film.

I don't recommend this with 120 film though, since that might jump out of the reel.

Great comments above and not a lot to add. Nevertheless, I want to contribute with my

subjective 2 cents:

I sold my 24-105/4 L and my 70-300 DO to get the 28-300 instead. Price and weight

were about the same as the two together -- with one MAJOR advantage: No lens swapping

necessary!

I just realized when walking through the streets or travelling that I kinda always had the

wrong lens on my 5D -- once I had them exchanged, it was often too late to shoot what I

wanted. Also, I found the distortion of the 24-105 far too heavy (especiall on a full frame

chip and at wide angle), so subjectively can not consider the 28-300 as worse.

Long story short: For me, the advantage of always having the right focal length available

beats the maybe not absolute prime optics fact by far. The 28-300 is still incredibly good,

a little vignetting I can correct easily with ACR, its slight distortion in PS (if necessary). The

push-pull zoom with friction control is incredibly fast and precise once you got used to it,

the near distance of 70cm is a real plus too, the IS is fantastic, AF in fast mode (2.5m to

infinite) is hard to beat wrt speed and accuracy, and the f4-5.6 I can compensate easily

with setting my low-noise 5D to higher ISO.

For small DOF and prime bokeh, I would always take a fast fixed focal length anyway.

I think the 580 EX mkII is not available yet in stores, but I think I saw about EUR 90 (about

$120) price difference when comparing offers about two weeks ago.

I wish there would be a split image screen with gridlines. I don't understand why they don't

offer this...

That is a great answer. I will do it right :-)

Thanks much. Too bad nobody sells them in Germany, gotta go through B&H and customs

then...

Darkroom friends,

I finally got a couple of Kindermann SS tanks on Ebay, together with more then a dozen of Hewes reels in

NOS condition, not bent or anything. These should make temeprature control for my home C-41 attempts

a lot better.

Unfortunately, my tanks came with totally used and rotten lids. The plastic has missing pieces and they

leak like crazy -- seems someone tried to put them on something seriously else then Kindermann SS

tanks :-(

B&H does offer replacement lids, varying from $2.50 (Tundra) to $18.95 (Kindermann), along with other

brands like Samigon or Kalt. At the B&H webiste, they all look the same (except the expensive

Kindermann's) -- any hints which lids are the best, last long and don't leak?

Thanks much, Friedemann

Ah, ok -- I should have read more carefully. It is weird though that 3200 ISO and +1/3

correction gives different results then setting the camera to 2500 ISO.

In really dim candlelight situations or parties with flat light etc, I actually do the opposit and

underexpose 1/3 or 2/3 stops at ISO 3200. I think the resulting low key is often reflecting

the perceived ight situation better. Probably a matter of taste though -- and I am getting off

topic...

Dan,

interestingly, the 5D has more noise at 2500 then at 3200. I can't remember where I saw the

curves but the 5D has significantly lower noise on all "native" ISO settings -- the 1/3 stops

"inbetween" are probably software-ish and make quite some avoidable noise.

ISO 320 for example also has more noise the ISO 800. Not a big deal though if you know it.

I think the low noise due to the big pixels of the 5D is the most important argument for it

(beside full frame). At least if you don't like flash. :-)