paul_miller10

<p>I bought some ATP because I had some Technidol packets left over. It was a tad contrasty so I cut 30 seconds off the developing time and now it looks great.</p>

<p>I have purchased 20+ items from KEH and have always been satisfied. As others have noted the BGN ratings are very conservative. I've bought BGN items that looked like they just came out of the box. I had one return with no hassle. I once informed them that an item as mis-identified in their online store and they corrected it immediately. KEH is first class.</p>

<p>Bill Jay was one of my photography professors at Arizona State University. He was a wonderful mentor full of enthusiasm about photography which he passed on to his students. He once told me he enjoyed my presence in his seminars because we frequently disagreed. He found that more stimulating than the students who accepted everything he said instead of creating a dialogue. He was also very funny. His death is a great loss to the world of photography.</p>

<p>I agree with Franklin. Leave it in the trunk of your car for a month and you will definitely get a color shift and somer fogging to boot.</p>

<p>Shoot either one at ISO 200 and underdevelop 30%. It will look marvelous.</p>

<p>Hardener keeps the gelatin from swelling. If the gelatin swells and contracts when it dries it can result in grain clumping which will reduce resolution and increase grainess.<br>

Some contend that not using hardener with paper makes for more efficient washing.</p>

<p>My wife recently found a disk while going through her stuff. I copied the frames through my stereo microscope setup and converted them in Photoshop. If you have a macro lens you could probably do the same thing. The quality of disk negatives are pretty lousy, so if you can digitize rather than pay to get them printed you are better off.</p>

<p>Shoot your first plate as if you were making a test strip for film. Make several exposures on one plate by pulling the dark slide out of the holder a half-inch or so and noting your exposures.</p>

<p>You want "simple" in a DSLR?<br>

Simple.<br>

Set the White Balance to AUTO. Set the Mode Dial to AUTO. Set the autofocus to S-AF. Set the flash to AUTO. Press the shutter button.</p>

 

<p>I've has very good results soaking view camera lens shutters in naptha and not lubricating. They perform very well with no lubricants.</p>

<p>Before using any questionable developer test it in room light with the film's tounge section to see it develops it to black.</p>

<p>No mirror flip blackout, particularly when shooting with flash. Lightweight, more discrete.</p>

<p>Don't use the clip--just tuck the end into an open space in the center and the film will align itself.</p>

<p>Ansco films were produced by GAF (General Analine and Film). Before WWII I.G. Farben, a major German chemical company, has many business units in the United States. When the U.S. declared war against Germany, the U.S. nationalized all German assets in the U.S. including I.G. Farben--which became GAF. In addition to producing really crappy film, GAF also produced linoleum and roofing shingles.</p>

<p>Since it's been years since Kodabromide was made, I believe you could use a red safelight with graded papers but not with polycontrast papers. The down side was your were working in a pretty monochromatic environment that could wear you out after awhile, whereas with an amber safelight you at least has SOME color in the room.</p>

<p>What you are showing us is that the Pentax has lousy color right out of the camera.</p>

<p>I lived in Carmel, NY for a few years, which is the northernmost area of the NYC watershed. NYC had a huge impact on the area. You couldn't build golf courses because fertilizer would leach into the reservoirs. Home construction had to be well away from a reservoir because of septic tanks. You could only put a boat in a reservoir if you had a fishing licesnse and no motors or even battery-operated trolling motors. No sailing or kayaking. Ice fishermen coiuld only use hand augers to cut a hole in the ice--no gas augers. The water spills over a series of masonry dams so it is aerated and goes straight from the watershed to the taps in NYC.<br>

On the other hand, Jersey City's water supply comes from a rancid lake in Parsippany, NJ. I ran a one-hour lab in Jersey City. You wouldn't believe what our water filters looked like.</p>

<p>The filter is an 85C, but the color will not look as good as using daylight film in daylight. When I was shooting architectural inertiors on tungsten film using a view camera I would make an intitial exposure for the windows at dusk using an 85C so the exteriors didn't look blue. Then I would light the room with tungsten light, remove the filter, and make a second exposure on the same sheet of film when the windows were dark. That's about the only practical application I can think of for using an 85C with tungsten film and daylight.</p>

<p>I have been carrying around a camera with a test roll of ATP 1.1 for about a month and finally processed and printed it. I processed in Technidol ( I still have some mixes sitting around) for 9 min at 68 degrees F. Rated ISO at 30. A few comments:<br>

1. With this combination it is VERY contrasty. I ended up printing most of my shots with a 1/2 or 1 Ilford Vari-contrast filter. I think for my next test I will rate the film at ISO 15 and cut the development time by 30%. This will also open up the shadow detail.<br>

2. Not surprisingly, the blue rendition was rather thin (skies). I think using a yellow contrast filter is necessary for landscape photography.<br>

3. The base appears to load up with static electricity when handled. I recommend using an anti-static film cleaner before printing and/or an anti-static cloth.</p>

<p>I shoot 8x10 and quite honestly scanning doesn't cut. You'll get the ultimate tonality and sharpness making contact silver prints. I show people my contact prints and they just marvel at the quality--they say they have never seen prints anything like them.</p>

<p>If you're holding down the lens release button when mounting the lens it is possible to rotate the lens past the locking point and the lens and the body won't talk to each other, hence--no AF or exposure data.</p>

<p>I'm seeing a lot of dust shadows on your negative in the sky. With the camera back and the lens removed extend the bellows and vacuum or blow out the inside of the camera. Also, when you remove the dark slide do it very slowly to avoid creating static electricity which attracts dust to the film. You'll typically get a lot of static on a cold dry winter day.</p>

<p>Lex,<br>

I'm one of those eccentrics myself. I'll tinker with an ancient process just to see how it works, but then I move on. I have some silver nitrate sitting around and last summer I worked out salted paper for a week.</p>

<p>I have seen posts on this forum refering to "albumen" printing. I think the proper term is silver halide printing. The albumen process involved using silver chloride/nitrate as a sensitizing agent in egg white instead of a gelatin emulsion and hasn't been used since the 1800's.</p>

<p>Where do you even get albumen paper today?</p>