![](http://content.invisioncic.com/l323473/set_resources_2/84c1e40ea0e759e3f1505eb1788ddf3c_pattern.png)
harold_gough
-
Posts
624 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by harold_gough
-
-
<p>As a user of Olympus m4/3 bodies, and some system lenses, I find the following galleries reassuring:<br /><br /> Stacks:<br /><a href="http://pen3.de/Stacken_wie_____/stacken_wie_____.html" target="_blank">http://pen3.de/Stacken_wie_____/stacken_wie_____.html</a><br /><br /> For the following, treat each as a manual slide show, scrolling left to right:<br /><br /> Flies:<br /><a href="http://pen3.de/Fliegen/fliegen.html" target="_blank">http://pen3.de/Fliegen/fliegen.html</a><br /> Butterflies:<br /><a href="http://pen3.de/Falter/falter.html" target="_blank">http://pen3.de/Falter/falter.html</a><br /> Fungi:<br /><a href="http://pen3.de/Pilze/pilze.html" target="_blank">http://pen3.de/Pilze/pilze.html</a><br /> New Photos:<br /><a href="http://pen3.de/Neue_Fotos/neue_fotos.html" target="_blank">http://pen3.de/Neue_Fotos/neue_fotos.html</a><br /> Eagles:<br /><a href="http://pen3.de/Vogel/vogel.html" target="_blank">http://pen3.de/Vogel/vogel.html</a><br /><br /> I couldn't find an English version but who needs words?<br /><br /></p>
-
<p>Take a look here:</p>
<a title="http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17069" href="wlmailhtml:{90FAD406-C679-4201-8C41-F5A85EDCACC7}mid://00000002/!x-usc:http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17069">http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17069</a>
<a title="http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17847" href="wlmailhtml:{90FAD406-C679-4201-8C41-F5A85EDCACC7}mid://00000002/!x-usc:http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17847">http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17847</a>
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4569
<p></p>
<p> </p>
-
<p>You will need at least +5 at 80mm to see much magnification. Have you tried stacking the +2 and the +4?</p>
-
<p>I have used both via buttons with legacy, manual focus lenses on adapters.<br>
I'm not sure what the aperture question is about. I use stopped-down legacy lenses in A mode with no metering problems, provided I have selected the metered part of the frame appropriately i.e. as for any system lens.</p>
-
<p>I don't see why Sony should be any different from any other image file. Using a card reader, or by USB cord direct to the camera, I view the card contents (closed files) from my PC via the Computer route and open the drive then folder and use Send To or Copy To. You can use My Documents (or equivalent) as the destination or set up a Send To for your preferred folder.</p>
-
<p>On page 263 it says:<br>
"Page 142 of the English language instruction manual (PDF version) has a nice multi-page table showing what gets reset in each mode, and what can be saved in the Mysets. In the interest of brevity, I’m not going to repeat that information here because the summary above should suffice and be easier to remember."<br>
Not in my copy (PDFv2)</p>
-
<p>The OM 80mm bellows lens was intended primarily as a copying lens for 35mm transparencies. It is good from half to twice life size.<br>
A reversed prime lens should do the job anyway. Kiron lenses are very good, generally better than OM ones.</p>
-
<p>Here is the setup I was using, to be updated by use of EM-1 and TTL flash:<br>
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=113545#113545<br>
Here are some results:<br>
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16977<br>
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16966<br>
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16967</p>
<p> </p>
-
<p>Alan,<br>
Thanks for the clarification.<br>
The FL-LM2 flash gun, which also acts as master for RC flash with the EM-1, has a similar issue. There is a sprung grip, released by pressing a button on the side.<br>
I have found that<br>
a) Of a new and second-hand unit the latter had the better grip. <br>
b) The newer one tends to slowly drift backwards, losing contact.<br>
So Olympus have not really solved this problem</p>
-
<p>I don't think that is right about later versions of the VF-2 not using the hot shoe. In fact, so far as I can tell, all the VF series do.</p>
-
<p>A Vivitar Series I 105mm 1:1 macro made by Kiron has displaced my Leica Elmarit 60mm macro as my go-to macro lens. Check my images via a Google Image search "e6filmuser macro".</p>
<p> </p>
-
<p>DOF depends on aperture and magnification, irrespective of focal length. Working distance does vary with designs of lenses and a long WD is advantageous in close-ups and macro. On m4/3, I find a 35mm macro lens has to get too close to the subject and disturbs e.g. insects. I use a 105mm as my standard macro but have found a 65mm quite useful.</p>
-
<p>Whatever you use, you will need about 17mm between the camera flange and the OM lens flange for infinity focus.</p>
-
<p>If you can adapt OM onto M42, M42 to M39 should be achievable (try Pentax, etc. forums), although I have only adapted M39 lenses to M42.</p>
-
<p>Here is my setup for Olympus m4/3:<br>
<a href="http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=113545#113545" target="_blank">http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=113545#113545</a><br>
and some results:<br>
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=108313#108313<br>
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16966</p>
<p> </p>
-
<p>I have a set which I use almost entirely for macro but would use for other applications.<br>
I have the FL-50R, the FL-300R and the FL-LM2. My normal configuration is the LM2 on the hot shoe, plugged into the rear USB-type slot , with the others off-camera on various brackets or even free-standing. Alternatively, I place the 50R on the hot shoe, where it also control the 300R. The 300R cannot be used to control other R series, so I cannot reverse this arrangement. All of this is TTL.<br>
I am not as adept at using this as I would like to be, as there was an internal camera fault which made the function of the LM-2 intermittent. This, together with the rear dial, has now be fixed under warranty.<br>
The zoom function of the 50R and the wide-angle option on the 300R add to versatility. I suspect that there are further options with the 50R.<br>
The kit diffuser with the 50R does a useful job but I use additional diffusion for optimum results.<br>
The 50R will continue flashing when the batteries are low but will cease RC control of other units.<br>
The selection/deselection of RC mode on the 50R is a pain!</p>
-
I use almost entirely legacy manual focus lenses, my main lens being a Vivitar Series 1 (Kiron) 105mm macro. Other Kiron lenses have excellent performance, as do their TCs, and are available cheaply. I use OM and FD mounts.
-
-
I strongly recommend setting up at least one "My Reset". Be aware, as I just found out, that a repair engineer will reset the camera to factory settings, including erasing time and date.
-
<p>My second FL-LM2 arrived today. The RC performance is slightly better than the kit one but I am getting a lot of flash failures and over- or severerly underexposures, all depending on to slight horizontal rotation. It is clearly a wiring problem behind the USB-type female socket.<br>
This will have to be repaired when I have the faulty rear dial (now solid) replaced.<br>
I wonder how many more faults will be identified by the time I send the camera for repair!</p>
-
<p>I am now having trouble with the FL-LM2 pop-up flash, which I use only as RC trigger/control.<br>
I had been getting an increasing number of flash failures. Also, there were number of severe over-exposures.<br>
I have identied the cause of this to be related to a poor fit in the port under the hot shoe. Some lateral rotation makes or breaks the contact. There is no such movement in the identical port on my E-P2 (where the electronics are not compatable). Also, my VF-2 fits and works well on my E-M1.<br>
I am currently getting no response to e-mails to the seller but I have a slightly-used (my words) FL-LM2 on the way to me. Either this will work, indicating the flash male connector to be faulty, or it will not, showing the camera electonics to be at fault. I will report back.</p>
-
<p>Thanks, Janet. For some reason, I don't seem to have received an e-mail notification of your reply.<br>
The problem seems progressive and the dial takes a lot of pressure and persistence to get any responses. Anyway, transfering functions to the front dial will get me through my trip later this month.<br>
On features of the model, I also have an issue with its RC flash mode. I use mostly off-camera flash TTL for macro. This requires an RC flash on the hot shoe to control it. The pop-up flash supplied with the camera is ideal, except that, in the manipulations and brushing against foliage, etc which are the very nature of outdoor macro, it frequently and easily flips down again, stopping any flash function.<br>
This needs to be moderated. I am loathe to put anything underneath it so I am trying a flimsy rubber band, crossed over at the top of the unit and looped uner the viewfinder eyecup. It seems to offer just enough resistance.</p>
<p> </p>
-
<p>I have arranged a warrantee repair after my peak use..</p>
-
<p>I wondered if I have been unlucky or if this is a known fault of the camera.<br>
I have been utterly frustrated by the menu system and the intermittent lack of adjustment of settings, the latest being no aperture control in aperture priority mode. I have been increasingly suspicious about the function of the rear dial, having to press quite hard and somewhat upwards (making my thumb sore) to get any change of settings. Fortunately, with the front dial as an option, I have at last diagnosed the problem and transferred all functions to that. The rear dial did work a bit better when I first got the camera but it has never been very responsive. This seems to be an internal, electrical contact problem.<br>
It might seem that I have been rather slow to realise what was going on but I use the camera mostlyin manual mode, with legacy manual focus lenses, for macro, such that the aperture setting via the dial is rarely used and, using fill flash, the shutter speed is mostly constant.<br>
I have contacted the seller and indcated that I shall want a repair under warrantee after my peak summer usage.</p>
<p> </p>
do I need a macro lens for E-PL5?
in Olympus
Posted
<p><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/26/1071426.jpg" alt="" width="768" height="1024" /><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/77/1077977.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="793" /><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/36/1086436.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="509" /><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/77/1080477.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="615" /><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/37/1068137.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="716" /> <br /> Having tried numerous lenses with my EP-2, now with my EM-1, I find the go-to macro lens of my choice is a Vivitar Series 1 105mm macro. It also serves as an excellent medium telephoto. With Kiron TC behind it and/ or an achromat supplementary in front of it, you can get down to a field of view as narrow as 3mm.<br /> The first is more of close-up.<br /> The next 3 are, of subjects about 2cm wide, from various distances.<br /> In the last image the slime mould bodies are about 1mm across. This time I had a Raynon MSN-202 on the front. <br /> All by TTL flash, typically at f11.</p>
<p> </p>