harold_gough

<p>Be very careful about photographing bird's nests. In the UK, for example, you need a licence for some species.</p>

<p>Very nice photo and flower.</p>

<p>It looks like it needs a good clean!</p>

<p>The following is a new lens, with amazing characteristics, which need an adapter for Sony E, m4/3,etc<br>

It is the Laowa 15mm shift macro. My initial shots, with background to show the effects rather than to be pretty. At f22, with twin TTL (Nissin Air) flash. The lighting is problematic due to the greatly reduced WD at higher magnifications.<br>

Sony Alpha A7R, Manual Mode, ISO 400 with twin TTL Nissin Air flash (RC) Laowa 15mm macro at f22, (The aperture ring setting is easily moved accidentally).</p>

<p><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/99/1290599.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="749" /></p>

<p><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/00/1290600.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="711" /><br>

<img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/01/1290601.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="683" /></p>

<p><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/25/1274525.jpg" alt="" width="534" height="800" /><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/07/1274107.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="1256" /><br /> <br>

Above are shots with a reversed Schneider HM 40mm lens on an A7R body, with and without a x2 TC behind it:</p>

<p>That reminds me of how tricky my (infrequent) use of 17mm on 35mm SLR was.</p>

<p>Before I go anywhere with my 15mm I need to supply it with a cap, the front element being very vulnerable. In progress.</p>

<p>Thanks, Peter, I had seen Parts 1 & 2.</p>

<p>John,<br>

Did you really think I would miss an opportunity to brag, having purchased the rights? Don't hold your breath, as there are not too many subjects I would use it for, even in warmer months. That said, I did get some use out of my Tamron SP 17mm with film and still have it. The idea of a 15mm has been in the back of my mind for many years, the one classic (can't remember details) being well beyond my bank balance.</p>

<p>Good idea or not,</p>

<p >I have just purchased this full frame film lens on Ebay.</p>

<p >I intend to use it as a 15mm on my Sony Alpha A7R and as 30mm (effectively) wide angle/wide angle shift lens on my EM-1.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Pentax SMC 15mm f 1:3.5 3.5/15mm K Mount Ultra Wide Angle Manual</p>

<p > </p>

<p > </p>

<p>Just curious, as someone who used a lot of filters with film, and has only used a polariser with digital, which filters do you use?</p>

<p>To state "a glass element that compensates (and degrades image quality" is a typical, prejudiced remark found across forums. So, are all your lenses single element?</p>

<p><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/04/1268604.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="759" />They just do. A7R with Printing Nikkor 150mm f11, Nissin Flash.</p>

<p> </p>

<p><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/04/1268604.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="759" />Combine it with an excellent legacy lens, the Printing-Nikkor 150mm and you can make music together. This was at f11 with Nissin Air Flash.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>There seems to be a lot here which over-complicates things. I use an FD-mount lens on my m4/3 via an FD to m4/3 adapter. I use it on my Sony Alpha A7R via an FD to Sony E adapter.<br>

Likewise, for Olympus OM (legacy) I use an OM to m4/3 to OM to Sony E.<br>

Why make it more complicated?</p>

<p>Essentially, yes. I use almost entirely legacy manual focus lenses and occasionally lock AF lenses in MF for better control. The camera need to be in Manual or Aperture priority. Any adapter for a legacy manual mount need to give you stop-down control of the aperture and forget about full aperture focusing or metering. You can open up to full aperture to see what is going on in poor light but have to stop down for metering and exposure.</p>

<p>I use an EM-1, mostly with legacy lenses. I recently bought used A7R. In a straight comparison, with the lens on the two bodies, aimed at the same target, I could not get a sharp image with the A7R, and this was at 1/400 or 1/1000 sec. I tried a tripod, a bean bag and Sorbothane on the bottom plate.<br>

The lens was 180mm, set at f8 (its best aperture for resolution) and I understand that around 200mm FL in the worst case.<br>

The shutter on the A7R sounds like a worn out cat flap. To market a camera with such vibration is a disgrace. I will be using it with flash, where I expect no problem.</p>

<p>I started with an OM2n but moved to the OM4, which I liked so much I bought a second one. The spot-meter is the winning feature.<br>

The best lens will vary between photographers and applications. I still have the 50mm 1.8 (came with the 2n) in its box. I used (film) mostly Tamron SP Adaptall-2 series lenses, except for the OM specialist lenses such as the macro ones and the shift ones.<br>

The particular OM system feature I liked most was the dedicated TTL flash system, of which I have from the ring flashes, through T32 and T20 (several of each) to the T45.</p>

 

<p>DOF is determined entirely and only by the effective aperture and the magnification. It has nothing to do with focal length or the design of the lens, assuming it to be of acceptable quality, working distance or anything else</p>

<p>Charles,<br>

That is one of the very best tiger images I have seen.<br>

Harold</p>

<p>Heliconius hecalae melicerta on Flower<br /> <img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/63/1253563.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="865" /></p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have a favourite test shot for lenses. I go to the end of our drive and take a shot with a house, hedges and a school sign (fine, contrasty detail) in the frame. I then record the technical details in the file name. If you have a suitable view you could takes shots before parting with the A7 and then take similar ones with the replacement camera. Not ideal but quite useful. It is worth doing some blue sky and some overcast shots.<br>

If you wish to check for flare, some subject with a strong light behind it is needed.</p>

<p>I should have added that very high quality teleconverters (x 1.5 and x2) are made for the Kirons. I have tried the x 1.5 behind my 150mm Printing Nikkor, on a test chart, and found no lost of fine detail when the lens is at its optimum 1:1 but at f11. I use these TCs behind various lenses.<br>

I should also have said that the Kiron 105mm is often available as the Vivitar Series 1.</p>

 

<p>I bought a slightly-used A7R last week. The first thing I did was to put my OM 24mm shift on it. The two were made for each other. No problem with the lens working with the viewer.</p>

<p>You would do well to read up on "nodal point" for panoramas.</p>