harold_gough

<h2> </h2> <p>I have the 7-14 and 14-45mm models. I understand that the sensors in Olympus Pens may not fully correct aberrations from these lenses. I use mainly an EM-1 but also have an EP-2.<br> If necessary, for landscapes (mostly) might it be better to obtain a Panasonic body? The number of modes and features could be minimal. Neither need it be a recent model, if an earlier one would meet my needs. I shoot RAW. (I have no idea as to how Panasonic RAW files are processed. I convert Olympus ORFs to TIFFs for processing).<br> Any suggestions?</p> <h2>?</h2>

<p>Yes, it must be rare. I can find nothing about it. Any reference to Lester Dine or Kiron on it?<br> It is clearly a bellows lens rather than a macro lens.</p> <p> </p>

<p>An extra point, not often mentioned:<br> I shoot RAW files and convert to large TIFF files for processing. I then convert to high quality JPEGs at the size acceptable for posting in photography blogs.<br> Images which contain a lot of detail often have such large files that I have to re-save at lower quality to be able to upload. The message is that you don't need any more pixels.</p>

<p>I developed the habit of switching off when subjects were not immediately available when I used OM film cameras. I never found it an inconvenience.<br> I continued this practice with my EP-2, and more strictly when I realised how leaving the camera switch on drained the battery. I now do the same with my EM-1. With both of them I find that having to change batteries is a pain and to be avoided, especially when:<br> a) I am stalking insect macro subjects.<br> b) I have a flash bracket which I have to loosen and swing to be able to access the battery compartment.<br> c) As for b) when using a tripod.<br> The above applies when I mostly use Manual mode and manual focus lenses. It would be all the more so with other modes and/or AF.</p> <p> </p>

<p>I use step-up and step-down rings for filters and other purposes. With m4/3, vignetting due to obstruction of the light path is unknown, in my experience. Specialist lenses, for macro, may have a very small diameter but are used on extensions.</p>

<p><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/26/1071426.jpg" alt="" width="768" height="1024" /><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/77/1077977.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="793" /><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/36/1086436.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="509" /><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/77/1080477.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="615" /><img src="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/ufiles/37/1068137.jpg" alt="" width="1024" height="716" /> <br /> Having tried numerous lenses with my EP-2, now with my EM-1, I find the go-to macro lens of my choice is a Vivitar Series 1 105mm macro. It also serves as an excellent medium telephoto. With Kiron TC behind it and/ or an achromat supplementary in front of it, you can get down to a field of view as narrow as 3mm.<br /> The first is more of close-up.<br /> The next 3 are, of subjects about 2cm wide, from various distances.<br /> In the last image the slime mould bodies are about 1mm across. This time I had a Raynon MSN-202 on the front. <br /> All by TTL flash, typically at f11.</p> <p> </p>

<p>As a user of Olympus m4/3 bodies, and some system lenses, I find the following galleries reassuring:<br /><br /> Stacks:<br /><a href="http://pen3.de/Stacken_wie_____/stacken_wie_____.html" target="_blank">http://pen3.de/Stacken_wie_____/stacken_wie_____.html</a><br /><br /> For the following, treat each as a manual slide show, scrolling left to right:<br /><br /> Flies:<br /><a href="http://pen3.de/Fliegen/fliegen.html" target="_blank">http://pen3.de/Fliegen/fliegen.html</a><br /> Butterflies:<br /><a href="http://pen3.de/Falter/falter.html" target="_blank">http://pen3.de/Falter/falter.html</a><br /> Fungi:<br /><a href="http://pen3.de/Pilze/pilze.html" target="_blank">http://pen3.de/Pilze/pilze.html</a><br /> New Photos:<br /><a href="http://pen3.de/Neue_Fotos/neue_fotos.html" target="_blank">http://pen3.de/Neue_Fotos/neue_fotos.html</a><br /> Eagles:<br /><a href="http://pen3.de/Vogel/vogel.html" target="_blank">http://pen3.de/Vogel/vogel.html</a><br /><br /> I couldn't find an English version but who needs words?<br /><br /></p>

<p>Take a look here:</p> <a title="http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17069" href="wlmailhtml:{90FAD406-C679-4201-8C41-F5A85EDCACC7}mid://00000002/!x-usc:http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17069">http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17069</a> <a title="http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17847" href="wlmailhtml:{90FAD406-C679-4201-8C41-F5A85EDCACC7}mid://00000002/!x-usc:http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17847">http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17847</a> http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4569 <p></p> <p> </p>

<p>You will need at least +5 at 80mm to see much magnification. Have you tried stacking the +2 and the +4?</p>

<p>I have used both via buttons with legacy, manual focus lenses on adapters.<br> I'm not sure what the aperture question is about. I use stopped-down legacy lenses in A mode with no metering problems, provided I have selected the metered part of the frame appropriately i.e. as for any system lens.</p>

<p>I don't see why Sony should be any different from any other image file. Using a card reader, or by USB cord direct to the camera, I view the card contents (closed files) from my PC via the Computer route and open the drive then folder and use Send To or Copy To. You can use My Documents (or equivalent) as the destination or set up a Send To for your preferred folder.</p>

<p>On page 263 it says:<br> "Page 142 of the English language instruction manual (PDF version) has a nice multi-page table showing what gets reset in each mode, and what can be saved in the Mysets. In the interest of brevity, I’m not going to repeat that information here because the summary above should suffice and be easier to remember."<br> Not in my copy (PDFv2)</p>

<p>The OM 80mm bellows lens was intended primarily as a copying lens for 35mm transparencies. It is good from half to twice life size.<br> A reversed prime lens should do the job anyway. Kiron lenses are very good, generally better than OM ones.</p>

<p>Here is the setup I was using, to be updated by use of EM-1 and TTL flash:<br> http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=113545#113545<br> Here are some results:<br> http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16977<br> http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16966<br> http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16967</p> <p> </p>

<p>Alan,<br> Thanks for the clarification.<br> The FL-LM2 flash gun, which also acts as master for RC flash with the EM-1, has a similar issue. There is a sprung grip, released by pressing a button on the side.<br> I have found that<br> a) Of a new and second-hand unit the latter had the better grip. <br> b) The newer one tends to slowly drift backwards, losing contact.<br> So Olympus have not really solved this problem</p>

<p>I don't think that is right about later versions of the VF-2 not using the hot shoe. In fact, so far as I can tell, all the VF series do.</p>

<p>A Vivitar Series I 105mm 1:1 macro made by Kiron has displaced my Leica Elmarit 60mm macro as my go-to macro lens. Check my images via a Google Image search "e6filmuser macro".</p> <p> </p>

<p>DOF depends on aperture and magnification, irrespective of focal length. Working distance does vary with designs of lenses and a long WD is advantageous in close-ups and macro. On m4/3, I find a 35mm macro lens has to get too close to the subject and disturbs e.g. insects. I use a 105mm as my standard macro but have found a 65mm quite useful.</p>

<p>Whatever you use, you will need about 17mm between the camera flange and the OM lens flange for infinity focus.</p>

<p>If you can adapt OM onto M42, M42 to M39 should be achievable (try Pentax, etc. forums), although I have only adapted M39 lenses to M42.</p>

<p>Here is my setup for Olympus m4/3:<br> <a href="http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=113545#113545" target="_blank">http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=113545#113545</a><br> and some results:<br> http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=108313#108313<br> http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16966</p> <p> </p>

<p>I have a set which I use almost entirely for macro but would use for other applications.<br> I have the FL-50R, the FL-300R and the FL-LM2. My normal configuration is the LM2 on the hot shoe, plugged into the rear USB-type slot , with the others off-camera on various brackets or even free-standing. Alternatively, I place the 50R on the hot shoe, where it also control the 300R. The 300R cannot be used to control other R series, so I cannot reverse this arrangement. All of this is TTL.<br> I am not as adept at using this as I would like to be, as there was an internal camera fault which made the function of the LM-2 intermittent. This, together with the rear dial, has now be fixed under warranty.<br> The zoom function of the 50R and the wide-angle option on the 300R add to versatility. I suspect that there are further options with the 50R.<br> The kit diffuser with the 50R does a useful job but I use additional diffusion for optimum results.<br> The 50R will continue flashing when the batteries are low but will cease RC control of other units.<br> The selection/deselection of RC mode on the 50R is a pain!</p>

I use almost entirely legacy manual focus lenses, my main lens being a Vivitar Series 1 (Kiron) 105mm macro. Other Kiron lenses have excellent performance, as do their TCs, and are available cheaply. I use OM and FD mounts.

I always get Olympus Viewer 3 to convert ORFs to TIFFs for processing and resizing. I then get it to convert to JPEGS e.g. for uploading. My Photoshop 7 doesn't "see" ORFs so it can open a series of TIFFS as though the ORFs were not in the folder.

I strongly recommend setting up at least one "My Reset". Be aware, as I just found out, that a repair engineer will reset the camera to factory settings, including erasing time and date.