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laurent1

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Posts posted by laurent1

  1. As the us$ is very low, sending a rollei there might be interesting as the hourly cost of craftmanship is lower over there. But : take in account the shipping costs and the taxes (depending where you are in europe it might be 20 %).

    I sent my rollei in Switzerland to Otto Baumgartner, (in Wädenswill) which is the former official Rollei repairman in Switzerland. He works very well and knows the rolleis by heart. He does a great job, but won't change the focusing screen. By the way, you can do this last operation yourself as no adjustment is needed.

    Laurent

  2. THank you for your response.

    The FA is the cheapest alternative to have a matrix metering with AIS lenses. Beside this camera, only the F4, F5 et F6 are doing this job. I am very impressed by the good results I get with the FA, desipte its age. In high contrast situation, it gaves me excellent results.

     

    THanks and keep on shooting.

     

    Laurent

  3. Hello,

    How precise does the Nikon FA P metering work, in particular in the way it sets the aperture of the lens ?

    The speed is fixed (125, 250,...), resp. set by the computer, but what about the aperture ? Is it set continuesly

    or by 1/3 step or 1/2 or unit by unit ?

     

    Thanks for your response.

    Laurent

  4. It depens how you like wide angle lenses. I had a 50 mm on my rolleiflex and got a 40 mm afterwards. It's the same lens as the Hasselblad 40 mm with the b104 filter. There is indeed a big deference between thoses lenses : the 40 mm is bigger and heavier and the filters are huge (the size of a pencake). They are hard to find but you can find some on the net (I got a yellow and a red one) and not as expensive that I thought. But it uses a lot of space. So if you travel a lot or hike in the mountain, better take the 50 mm.
  5. With the fe2, you can change the focusing screen by putting a "K3" screen with is very very clear. I also have a

    50mm 1,2 and it's a real pleasure with it. The fe2 can measure low light quite easily (much better for example than

    the FA). I don't know if this better or not that the F3, as I don't have one. But the fe2 is great for action pictures (as

    the shutter goes up to 1/4000).

    L.

  6. Like the FE2, the FA is set on 250 until the frame counter reaches 1. So as you said, the camera is smart ! ;o)

    The best way to see if you are in matrix or center weighted mode is to mesure the light of a bright source in a dark environnement. With the center weighted mode, you will see a great diffrence if the bright source is in the center field of outside. The difference is not so big with the matriy metering. Try to make comparaison with the FE. If it works the same, than you are in the center wighted mode. By the way, matrix metering will not work with all programs and lenses. For more info check there :

    http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonfa/operation/basic1.htm

     

    The FA is a great camera in my opinion.

    Laurent

  7. Did you try the 350 on the 6003. It should work when you push the preview button. If it does, than it's the longar that has the problem. As far as I know, if it's an old hft lens (not PQ), it is normal that you get no information on the camera, but it shoud work when using the preview button.

    Laurent

  8. If you want to have an exemple of the use of a mutar 0,7x, check my portfolio where there are two pictures taken from the same point of view with my rolleiflex 3.5f with and without the mutar.

    The 0.7x mutar gives you a 52 mm lens. The only problem is the use of a pol filter, as you don't see the effect of rotating the filter. (in fact, you see a small part of it as the filter comes partly in the field of view of the viewing lens). There is a little vigneting with the mutar as you can see.

    Mutars were made for the 3,5 planar lens but they can be adapted to the 2.8 lens with a special set of rings (bay III) and to the bay I also, but there is much more vigneting.

    The mutar 0.7 is a very nice, interesting and worth the investment. The 1.5 is less interesting as it gives you a 110 mm lens which is not a great telephoto. It vignets also more that the 0.7.

    Hope this help you choice.

    From my opinion, a rolleiflex is an excellent choice when starting in MF : you have a complete MF camera for only 1.2 kg and it's very small and reliable.

    Laurent

  9. Thanks for your answer. I don't think that this might come from air bubbles as I return my tank and I always hit it on a hard surface after. I will try not to use a stop bath. Ronald, you don't even use water between the dev and the fix ?

    I use hypam as fix, do you know if it's alkaline ?

    Is it special with the hie ? I haven't experience this problem with other films.

    Thanks

    Laurent

  10. I recently bought a Nikon FA, with which I am very happy. I came accoss a

    cheap CF-30 vynil pouch on ebay and got it in order to protect the camera and

    the lens. Well, vynil is not known for standing time really well, indeed. On

    my pouch, parts of the vynil are begining to break and I guess it won't

    survive very long.

    But now that I've got a model, I though of having a replica made in real

    leather at a local craftman's shop. I was wondering if other people were

    interested in having a real leather pouch for their FA or their FM/FE (...)

    Nikon (I also have a vynil pouch for those cameras). I guess if I order more

    of those I could bargain the prise.

    Anybody's interested ?

    Laurent

  11. Hello,

    Has anybody tested doubling two focal doublers ? I was looking for a very long

    focal lens (more than 300) in order to take airplane pictures. I already have an

    ang鮩eux 70x210 which is excellent and a tc-200. As I just got a nikon FA, I

    wanted to upgrade to a tc-201 and I succeded in finding a very cheap TC-201. So

    now I could use the TC-200 and the TC-201 plus my ang鮩eux and that would give

    me a lens that would go up to 840 mm.

    But what about the quality ?

    Did anybody try this kind of combinaison ?

    Thanks

    Laurent

  12. The only IR film that has to be loaded in total darkness is the Kodak HIE, which is not available in 120. Rollei IR, Ilford Sfx and maco 820 IR can be loaded in a dim light environment.

    And if you are using an rolleiflex f you don't have any problem: the camera know when the film begins.

    Laurent

  13. Having those lens fixed is quite expensive. I had a problem with a distagon HFT 50 that got stuck on f32 on automatic setting. All the electronic had to be changed. I sent it to :

    http://www.paepke-fototechnik.de/

    And he made a quote of 400 euros, so I gave up and bought another lens. But for the quote itself, he asks 18 euros. Which is very low. I was told he only speaks german, but his reputation is excellent. Check other posts on the forum they will tell you the same.

    Good luck

    Laurent

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