cadillacmike

<p>Some TLs had QL. From the Canon museum site:<br>

"A simplified and cheaper version of the FT QL, this camera was for the overseas mass market. The maximum shutter speed was only 1/500 sec. The camera was without a self-timer and QL feature, but it retained stop-down TTL metering. Although most TL cameras did not have QL, some cameras did as shown in the photo."<br>

I'll try to attach the photo.<br>

No mention of it in the TLb write up or TX.</p><div></div>

<p>Bill, some TLbs did have QL, The Canon Museum even had a picture of one once. Not sure about the TX. As Mark stated, a lot of small finely machined parts, not to mention a bear to remove a QL back for service or repair!<br>

I had an old Practika LTL and the take up springs were cool.<br>

FWIW I only flubbed up loading once. on an A-series. I always wind once with the back open (as per the F-1's instructions) to see the film being wound. Otherwise the exposed frames start at 0 not 1!</p>

<p>There's one every year in Tampa FL, I'll be sure to take an F-1 or an A-1 next year, with a motor drive on it of course.</p>

<p>Dave, None of my F-1s have ever broken down!</p>

<p>There are only two Canon FD mount cameras that I can think of that will auto meter with a nikon or (any other compatible mount) lens. A-1 and T90. Both have stopped down AE.<br>

Many old F-series inclusing both F-1s will stop down manually meter, but you neeto get the lends stopped down.<br>

That's not an original Canon Lens Mount Converter N, those are hard to find, harder than the Exakta Lens Mount Converter.</p>

<p>I'd love to post some images, but since i can't even GET film in afghanistan, that'll have to wait until at least Nov, probably Jan when I get home.</p>

<p>OK My turn These are also on wikis F-1 page. They are mine and i have 5 other olympic F-1s , I'm more of a F-1 shortage instigator than Lindy!</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>You'll find that I know more about the F-1 than just about anyone who wasn't part of rhe design team.</p>

<p>Interestingly enough no such change is needed to put the original Motrir Drive Unit on any F-1. Most likely the increased FPS rate of 3.5 FPS (MD MF) vs 3.0 FPS (MDU) brought the jamming possibility to light!</p>

<p>First, it is stated in the Motor Dtive MF Manual, F-1s with Serial Numbers prior to 200001 required a slight adjustment service.<br>

I have some original 1975 Camera Craftsman magazines that go into great detail on the Motor Drive MF and the changes needed to the F-1's prior to # 200001. One was the installation of a larger bushing to prevent chattering (a minor nuisance if it ever happenned). The other - and I'm not very clear on this because i haven't read the articles for years was the replacement of some wierd spring held latch to keep the auto aperture mechanism from getting hung up. If i remember right if you ran the MF at continous WITHOUT a lens on the camera, there was a possibility of jamming the auto aperture mechanism (hence jamming the camera!). But i'm not quite sure because it was while ago that I read it. Good luck finding the parts. But technically not needed IF you remember to ALWAYS have a lens on it before testing the drive.<br>

Or only buy F-1s numbered 200001 or higher!</p>

 

<p>Steve, never heard that one. It if was true the F-1 would have used it. The possibility of cracking the emulsion (even though very low) outweighed other considerations, and the F-1's very large oversized pressue plate negated any possibly advantage of reverse winding.</p>

 

<p>It's called the "take-up spool". The Canon A-series and many other cameras wind the film onto the take-up spool emulsion side out, "against the curve" so to speak. Why - I don't know. F-1s and all older Canon F-series wound the film with the curve. So it will look inside out to you, but that's how these cameras were designed to wind the film.<br>

In VERY COLD weather there is a possibility of cracking the emulsion when winding against the curve, hence the F-1's winding "with the curve".<br>

To see if you have wound it correctly, lightly wind the rewind crank. It should eventually stiffen. Stop at that point, because if you keep on tightening, you could then either scratch the film or tear the perforations from the film. If it just keeps on rewinding and you hear the film come off the take-up spool, then it was not wound right, but your photo looks like it's wound correct.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>In general, MCs are better built (and heavier) but some MDs have newer optical formulae with better sharpness, etc.</p>

 

<p>The XK was an expensive flop in the market. Biggest problem was one body COULD NOT take a motor drive, while the other one had it PERMANENTLY attached ????? Canon and Nikon ate their lunch. <br>

The Minolta SR mount endured for 27 years, but the Canon bereech lock mount endured for 36 years. You could mount a 1959 Super Canomatic lens on a 1995 built F-1. and if you get the FD-EOS converter (the real Canon 1.26X one, you can mount some lenses on the newest bodies! Nikon F for all its supposed longevity, has large scale incompatibility ranges, especially when trying to mount older lenses on new AF / Digital bodies. <br>

all said, I really like the SRT series, and if i ever branch out from collecting Canon, I'm getting an SRT 102 and SRT 202, and maybe a non-motorized XK.</p>

 

<p>Microprisms are had to use in dim light, and my eyes are terrible, that's why i take any A screens out of my F-1s and replace them with E or C (Laser matte of course). It's a lot easier on my eyes. Anyone looking for old F-1 A or B screens???</p>

<p>You left out the Canonflex R & R2000!<br>

Notice how mich bigger the Mikon Fs lens mount / mirror box is compared to the other two, that larger mmount helped keep it current for so long, they could actually make an F1.2 standard lens, while the M42 has a tough time with a 1.4 standard lens.<br>

The Canon R / FL / FD mount was even wider than the Nikon mount, but that film flange distance was so short!!!</p>

<p>Canon 24mm F2, 28mm F2 and 35mm F2, all superb lenses and fast. 24mm F1.4L would be nice, but hard to find and expensive.</p>

<p>Leica and budget do not belong together. The Canon EF was not a budget SLR either. Even today, thay can cost more than a brassed F-1. Here are my takes on budget SLRs that had a great lens line up<br>

Praktica LTL, (I had one)<br>

most any old Pentax M-42,<br>

Canon TL series (and TX),<br>

Minolta SRT 100 or 200<br>

Nikormatt and later re-branded nikons (not the Fs)<br>

The low end olympus SLRs can also qualify<br>

There are others. The later Pentax K mount SLRs , esp K1000 also qualify.<br>

Remember the acronym CMNOP<br>

Canon<br>

Minolta<br>

Nikon<br>

Olympus<br>

Pentax (both mounts)<br>

Any of these you can get cheap, are backed by great lenses and a decent array of accessories (huge in the case of Canon and nikon)</p>

 

<p>"Fortunately nobody has asked me how to repair the winders, the other weakness in the T70. If I'm recalling correctly, the appropriate fix is to convert it into a paperweight or doorstop."<br>

Actually the preferred fix is to attach it to your boat anchor for additional holding power.</p>

<p>Many things that I read in the past state that the construction of the F-1 make it impossible to properly modify it for a higher voltage battery. <br>

I recommend CRISCAM MR-9 adapter (which uses an everready 386 silver battery) , which i found to work well, or the Wein cell (or it's many copycats) which are Zinc-air. The Zinc-air batteries do not last long however even if not used, while the Criscam MR-9 adapter / everready 386 silver battery should last quite a while - especially if not used much. Thee MR-9 madapter can also fit a silver 76 battery, but this is too tall to fit in an F-1, It might fit in an cFT or FTb,(haven't tried) . The benefit is that 76s are bigger than 386s and will last longer - IF you can thread the cover back on!</p>

 

<p>I'll bet it is 1-2mm shorter or longer than a BW-58B and when the TS 35mm changed (there were barrel changes over the years) the new lens config required a slightly longer or shorter hood. In any event I now have all three BW-58 series hoods, but no 35mm T&S, which by the way kicks nikon's shift only lens in thee A$$.!!!!<br>

I can't buy any film out here, and if my wife sends any it will likely get ruined by the dammn x-ray that they put all the mail through..... I'll just have to wait until i get home - Nov for a couple weeks. That's a LONG way off......<br>

We definately know that the BW-58C goes on the one touch 35-205/3.5-4.5 - with the molded glass aspherical element (as opposed to ground glass on the "real" Aspherical - AKA L lenses).<br>

That's why Canon never gave that lens an L designation - new cheaper mfg technique, which compared to todays PLASTIC lens elements michgt actually be considered good - but i digress...</p>

<p>Jeff, I have here in afghanistan with me an FD 200mm F4, made in 1971 (L date code). It doesn't have a chrome front barrel (I'll recheck), because of the built in hood, however it still belongs to the "chrome nose" generation. Again refer to the three generations I listed above. Same with my 135mm F2.5 Built in hood, no chrome front, L date code. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi all; What FD lens takes a BW-58 Lens Hood? Not BW-58B or BW58C but the "original" BW-58. I just bought one but cannot think of a lens that used it except for maybe a 1st generation FD Zoom probably 35-70mm F-whatever, (maybe), but I don't have any lens catalogs out here, and the two reference documents that i pulled off the yahoo site don't have this hood listed (and the files have errors, so i'm not going to try and 2nd guess). Maybe the 1st Gen 35mm T&S??<br>

Anyway, someone out there knows, or else i can just use it on my New FD 35-105mm F3.5-4.5 zoom. Thanks, Mike</p>

 

<p>The Canon A-series and F-1 and New F-1 data backs cannot do the current date. They were mechanical with little wheels that had an upper limit that is way gone by. Of course, you can have it imprint other things like letters, etc and the day and month can still be set.</p>

 

<p>The Back cover on AE-1s comes off for the data back A. You can get one of those if you can't find a plain back cover. AE-1, A-1 and AE-1Program all have removable back covers, AV-1 NO, and AL-1 I don't think so.</p>