cadillacmike

<p>That's all I use in my A-series. Alkaline batteries are just no good for cameras. Silver was ok, but the lithiums last longer when not in use.</p>

<p>For a good battery solution, I recommend the MR9 adapter available at criscam.com (and possibly other sites). It is the size of the original battery with an opening for a smaller size 386 1.5v Silver battery and works fine in the old FX, FT, FTb, FTbn, Pellix, F-1 and EF (although the EF is supposed to not need it). Just remember to get Silver not alkaline batteries. Once you have the MR9 adapter the little 386s are readily available and inexpensive. And they last.<br>

Generally you do not want to use a shutter speed slower than 1/60 sec or 1/the focal length of the lens, unless you are using a tripod. when you get better you can stretch that to 1/30 sec or even 1/15 if you use a monopod, but it takes practice. <br /><br /></p>

<p>F-1 seals go bad too, maybe not as often as A-series, or older F-series, but they still go bad.<br>

On the meter and batteries: I have some wein cells, but as mentioned they do not last. I prefer the little criscam sold MR9 adapters that take a little 386 1.5V silver battery and step it down to 1.35V. they last a lot longer. I think they are still available and should get a couple more ( I lost 2 somehow!).<br>

Remember that on the F-1 (new and old, and the new one had the f-stop #s showing) the aperture lollipop circle is Exactly 1 f-stop tall. When metering you can make pretty precise over or under exposure compensation by just gauging the distance from the floating meter needle to the aperture circle. Never fails to help me especially in strong backlit situations.</p>

<p>Certain FL and R lenses, cannot mount onto several FD era cameras because of physical interference. The camera manuals state this. I believe that both the R 58mm F1.2 and the FL 58mm F1.2 fall into this category. there is an inner barrel protrusion that can hit part of the inside of the camera body. If you have one of these, you'll see what i mean. <br>

You can meter with an AE-1 and an FL or R lens. You must be in stopped down mode, and with an R lens, be using manual aperture, and you have to take your eye off the viewfinder to check the setting on the lens, but it can be done. </p>

<p>I've seen the site, and written a couple of reviews on the motor drives. You should add the AE Motor Drive FN for the New F-1 to the MD list. And those small Bellows only lenses (of which i have both) are indeed Macrophoto lenses. Hard to find, either in real life or when doing a search because folks always have them mislabeled.<br>

If a lens did not have the full aperture signal pin and the full aperture signal lever, as in the 7.5mm fish-eyes and the TS 35mm F2.8? they were not named "FD" lenses, even though they came out during the F-1's reign. The TS 35mm, in particular never got the new FD mount (but the 75.mm fish-eye did).<br>

When you add the FL lenses, don't forget the FLM 100mm f4 (bellows only, and I'm still looking for one) and the FLP 38mm F2.8 (need one of those for my black Pellix too).</p>

<p>OMG, I hope at least the lens is ok. I'd get an FTb or FTbn, or even an AV-1 if you really want aperture preferred AE.</p>

<p>Actually the FD 55mm F1.2 replaced the FL 55mm F1.2, which replaced the FL 58mm F1.2, which replaced the R 58mm f1.2. The two 55mms had identical optical formulas as did the two 58mms.<br>

All are well regarded high speed lenses, but are not as good as the FD 55mm F1.2 AL (or aspherical - same lenses just different designations).<br>

<br />None of the 55mm have Thorium elements.</p>

<p>Detlef, you need to sell me that Speedlite 500A.! <br>

I also have a working, full SL 200 kit with the case all accessories and instructions, but they're all at home. It's old, non-dedicated (no such think back then, and finicky, but it does work.<br>

<br />Truthfully, I'd rather use a 533G, or Detlef's 500A.</p>

<p>I had issues with the slow speeds on one of my EFs, the shutter would open but not close, changing the shutter speed dial to 1/2 sec or faster would close it!<br>

Needless to say it needed a cleaning.<br>

Now the same EF's BC / shutter indicator stays lit constantly - it doesn't blink, but the speeds are correct ?!?!?<br>

I have two EFs, one blinks the other stays lit constantly, both when in BC mode and when a long shutter speed is in use. I wonder if the blinker circuit is bad on the one. I think the one that won't blink is the later split image screen one, the other is the microprism screen version. I don't use either much but it is still weird...</p>

 

<p>Jeff, it is a timing / spring issue. These old mechanical SLRs were mighty complex, especially the F-1. Gordon, thanks for the detailed info on the FLP 38mm F2.8 lens. One could always file the flange notch on an FT to use the FLP - but then why mess with a nice camera.<br>

I'm still holding out for a Black Pellix QL - I'm just not holding my breath.</p>

<p>You can probably find a New F-1 World book on the 'bay. I bought mine back in 86. I don't think there were multiple versions, like the original "Introduction to the Canon F-1" book, which had at least 4 editions.<br>

Good luck finding a decently priced SK screen - they are few and far between.</p>

<p>Well then you need to buy a 5 FPS motor drive with built in rewind - problem solved!</p>

<p>Well, I want to use what i have more and sell some of the way too many Canon F-1s that i have acquired. But first i have to get home.<br>

Not having an F-1 on leave really pi$$ed me off - I could not get that digital P&S to properly get the sun backlighting my wife to save my life, and i'm not about to get a DSLR. But, Aruba was still great though no rain at all for a change!</p>

<p>The 500A exists - please refer to earlier threads - i have an original manual, and KEH at one time sold one of its dedicated cords.. 120A - not sure. 1000 - never heard of it. Have you tried a search on google or yahoo?</p>

<p>Nice. now that i'm back in the US i'll check it out. I'm afraid however that if i tried to add my entire collection into your site i'd crash it!</p>

<p>It's an interesting lens, but i have not embraced it (translation - i have not bought one) - yet... I have the FL 19mm f3.5R and both the new FD 17/4 and 20/2.8 so i have this wide range pretty much covered.<br>

I can take the silly huge puppy nose pictures with ease!<br>

Another interesting FL lens is the FLP 38mm F2.8 it can ONLY be used on the Pellix (or one of the very rare F-1 high speeds - either old or new).<br>

Since i still don't have a Pellix - i'm holding out for a black QL one, i don't have this lens yet either.</p>

<p>For inside use, either the 35mm F2 or the 28-85mm F4 are my preferred lenses. The 50 or 55mm F1.4 or 1.2 are also fine if it's dark outside. The 35-105 F3.5's hood is not as deep as the one for the 28-85mm. If it's real tight, the 20-35mm F3.5L is very handy.<br>

Outdoors, i like the 80-200mm F4 twin ring with the built in hood. It will focus to 1 meter with no silly macro buttons and it's very sharp. Plus the front of the lens never rotates, making a polarizer easier to use.</p>

<p>Nice shots. I love traveling with an F-1, but i sold all my beaters, so it's only Nice F-1s for me thank you.</p>

<p>Nikon lenses faster than Canon - what were you smoking??? When Canon introduced a fast lens it was usually the fastest lens of that focal length in the world: 300mm F2.8, 400mm F2.8, 85mm F1.2, 55mm F1.2, 24mm F1.4, 135mm F2, the list goes on, many are still the fastest of their focal length in the world! These were all FD lenses (or even FL!) And their image quality with Canons use of calcium flourite lens elements and ground aspherical glass was (and is) unmatched!</p>

<p>and we won't even start on the 50mm F0.95 rangefinder lens or the early EOS 50mm F1.0.</p>

<p>Personally, while i have a Canon digicam (Powershot SD990) i couldn't stand it on my past vacation in Aruba. I couldn't get any sunset images to come out right when in the past with an F-1 i have obtained perfect results. I couldn't take any of my F-1s this year because they were at home and i went there straight from the mountains of afghan. Next year I will take an F-1 and leave the digicam at home.</p>

<p>And most before the nikon F3!!!</p>

<p>XK - now X-70 vs X-570. Keep the thread going. <br>

AE-S finder was pretty much made for the motor version since it was "faster" and could theoretically keep up with the motor drive on AE.<br>

Sure... I've not had much problems with an F-1 with a Motor Drive MF with match needle metering, so i don't put much credence in that, especially with the F-1's 12% central area metring. You could meter your subject in the 12% area and follow the subject with the motor and everything will turn out fine!<br>

And then i could take the motor drive off later!!!</p>

<p>Actually, bottom trigger wind was pretty popular in the 50s but I must agree that, in retrospect, it is just out of place on an SLR. Before the CanonFlexes Canon offered lever or trigger wind versions of their older rangefinders.<br>

I had my R2000 serviced and it is working fine. The meter cell is dead though - now i have to find someone who can replace the meter cell.</p>

<p>Yeah, I remember reading in modern photography when the west Germans went in and shut down the Pentacon VEB factory after an inspection. Main reason: the cameras that they were selling for about $150 (body only) globally were costing some SIX HUNDRED DOLLARS EACH to produce!!!<br>

If that doesn't say something about comunist economy inneficiencies i don't know what else does!!!<br>

It's really to bad too, because i had a Praktica LTL and other than the visible frensel lines and stopped down metering, it was a very nice camera. They fixed the stopped down with the VLC and added removable finders as well, never handled one to see if the screen was any better...</p>

<p>While most FD lenses are slightly less expensive, the L lenses are NOT, especially the 85mm F1.2 L . that one is still going through the roof! Also try buying a 50mm F1.2 L or 55mm F1.2 Ashperical - you' never know there was a recession going on!!!<br>

If i want maximum versatility, i use the 28-85mm F4 and the 80-200 F4 (non-L) along with a 50mm F1.2 or F1.4. If i'm going to be doing indoor shooting, 24mm F2 or 28mm F2 and 50mm F1.2L and maybe the uber expensive 85mm F1.2L</p>

<p> </p>