paulcooklin

"For film that has been opened, I strongly recommend NOT putting it in the fridge or freezer. Condensation may form and damage the film. "

Is that true for 120 film too, as there's no canisters as with 135 film?

Thanks.

Paul.

I have a V750 and use it for pro work. I think for the money it's excellent. My stock agency recommended the Imacon, but frankly I cant afford one of those, not at the moment anyway, and the v750 does a great job. However, colour profiling with the Eye1 helps and I shot and scanned about 150 rolls with the additional 3mm feet on the scan holders before noticing the scans could be sharper, so I took them off again and all is well.

Im passionate about film too, although I have a 5D and like the speed/workflow of digital, the purist in me still likes film, mainly b&w but Velvia/Astia are also lovely and for huge files the v750 is great for crops if needed. Im now shooting 135 too for times when size doesnt matter but I want proper b&w tonal range, bite and feel. It's all good, just apply the right technology for the job - here's what I use mine for: www.paulcooklin.com

Hope this helps.

Hello - Im new to developing b&w film. So far, Ive managed to develop 4 rolls

of 120 film. Ive been pleased with the results but I have a few questions for

those of you who have been doing this a lot longer. Thanks in advance for your

time.

1) - Im getting consistently 14 frames and not 15. Presumably this is because

Im winding the film initially too far. Ive tried just inserting the leader in

to the reel but Im still getting 14.5 frames. What do you do to ensure you get

the last frame without the sticky tape covering the other half?

2) - The process of getting the roll of film on to the development spool in

either a darkroom or dark bag is no doubt the one thing that has caused the

most frustration with newbies. Is it ok to use a red light in a darkroom to be

able to see what Im doing or this only for printing? Also, have you had any

experience with the "easy loader" http://www.firstcall-

photographic.co.uk/products/nova-easyloader/566/

3) - Ive read mixed reports about developing XP2 with b&w chemistry (eg ID-11

in my case). Whats your view?

4) - Im generally using HP5 and Panf 50 films which I like. I am thinking about

getting some FP4, can anyone tell me the main differences other than the asa,

is there much difference in the "look and feel". Im going to try pulling and

pushing HP5 which Ive read is quite versatile but wondered if FP4 would be a

better stock film to pull to maybe 50 or push to 800?

5) - Is it ok to use the same developer (id-11, 1+1) straight after use and

pour it in to another tank to process right away instead of throwing it away

and using another batch, what's your view?

6) - Can you buy meter rolls of 120 film and how difficult is it to load it on

to spools? Given my experience with just getting the film off the spool Im

guessing it's a difficult skill to learn?? Can it be done under red light?

7) - How difficult is it to develop e6? Ive seen kits but have been told its

not as forgiving as b&w, any advice?

Many thanks.

-Paul.

P.S, if you're interested, these are the results of my first 3 rolls of self

developed film

Hello - Im about to try developing some 120 HP5. This will be the first time

Ive ever developed film and Im excited about the prospect. I have all the

equipment which was handed down from my Dad including a CPE2 Jobo thermal bath

and containers etc needed for the job. My good old Dad has offered to assist me

in this but he's not done this for about 15 years, although he claims it will

be easy once Ive mastered the dark bag technique on a few practice rolls.

What he's asked me to find out is the correct chemicals I need to develop HP5

as he's only ever processed FP4.

Can anyone advise me on the developer, stop and fixer (and anything else) I

will need and also recommend a good UK based online store to buy them from.

Many thanks in advance.

-Paul.

Hello - Im new to medium format photography and wanted to ask a question about

black and white vs desaturising slide film eg Provia for example.

Ive recently shot various black and white film along with some Provia and

Velvia. I have an Epson v750pro scanner and print digitally using an Epson 1280

printer. Id like your opinion on the difference, if any, of shooting slide film

and then desaturising in Photoshop or a similar program versus just shooting

b&w. Are there any difference? Also, is desaturising the same as converting to

grey scale?

My own thoughts are there must be a small difference between pure b&w and

desat' otherwise everyone would simply use colour, however, Id be grateful for

a definitive answer if you have one.

Many thanks in advance.

Paul.

Im also looking in to a good quality neg/slide scanner. My stock agency's lab will only accept scans from Imacon scanners which are very expensive. When I asked them about scanners, this was their reply.

"The only scanners I can recommend for home use are the Imacon scanners, which are still pretty expensive but you can find them used (as long as they aren?t the really old versions they?re good-the thing to watch out for with an Imacon is streaks and noise in the shadows). I occasionally accept files from the less costlly Nikon 8000 or 9000 scanners but just as frequently reject images because of the poor scan quality (not sharp edge to edge, noisy, overall not as sharp)."

If anyone can recommend a good scanner can you please let me know.