felix_mizioznikov
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Posts posted by felix_mizioznikov
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<p>this was strait out of camera with no filter. 1/200 shutter, about f/13. iso about 100.</p>
<p><img src="http://www.felixtm.com/People/People/ggg18249/859343875_gntLa-M.jpg" alt="" width="600" height="400" /></p>
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<p>I had sold my old 100 macro non is to get the is, then I realized the same thing so I returned the is and went back to the cheaper but equally great image quality non-is.</p>
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<p>after getting the 5d2 I realized I needed a mac and I havent looked back.</p>
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<p>if I'm shooting commercial/editorial I can use 1600, generally for stock I'll keep it at 200 so I can retain the highlights with highlight priority mode on.</p>
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<p>I usually dream of hot chicks</p>
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<p>I had the same problem but it's mostly user error and getting used to shooting more precisely. compared to a less mp body that would not yield such large photos the 50 1.8 was a supperb lens but now with a pro body you blowing up big and seeing the difference. I've tried the 50 1.8 and anything shot f/3.5 or wider did not yield such great results and the depts of focus was only a couple of inches at about 10 feet away. you need to consider if you or the subject is swaying back and fourth even if just a slight bit will effect the image quality. Also learn about the microfocus adjustment. a few of my lenses are best at either a few points back or fourth. consider getting the 50 1.4 as I've seen better results with it. if you want to see my site I have full size photos uploaded and exif data so you could see which lenses I used for shich photos and you could see the focus.<br>
www.felixtm.com</p>
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<p>5d2 and 5d2 for backup</p>
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<p>I would say large format as mentioned before. you could get close with canon 85 1.2L but not quite.<br>
could also be a tiltshift 90mm to get the lensbaby effect.</p>
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<p>I did my first wedding with 120 people solo with one 5d2 and a few lenses. the wedding went great and I'm still getting referral work from the guests, several that followed were also solo but with two 5d2's. As much as Vail is advising to go with an assistant, I've been doing it solo and have always been praised on my work, from my experience I've found that it's much easier with two camera bodies than one. sometimes an an amateur second shooter will cause greater harm than good because if your friend the "second shooter" if off taking shots out of your control and guests want those shots (guests remember hat shots were taken of them) and the shots came out unacceptable then you have unhappy guests that did not get the shots they were anticipating and will never think twice to call you again.<br>
prior to my first I never had wedding training. I primarily work with models, fashion, interiors and stock. <br>
starting of as a second shooter would be helpful if you may lack confidence in your abilities. </p>
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<p>I have the same issue. I lug around a alienbees vegabond, light and stand. I only take a few shots in each location and walk to another spot so I'm lifting, carrying, positioning, about 100 times per shoot. I guess it's my workout of the day. I do everything with one light.<br>
felixtm.com</p>
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<p>the 18-135 is by no means a good lens. I'd go with L lenses and primes and here are a few which I believe were already mentioned<br>
16-35 2.8, 24-70 2.8, 70-200 2.8 or 4.0 with IS, 50mm 1.4 or if you can afford the 1.2,<br>
the money lens is the 85 1.2L<br>
maybe a few non L primes around 20, 35, 1.4-1.8 or so.<br>
I'd recommend eventually getting in to full frame bodies. 5d or 1ds.</p>
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<p>www.alienbees.com</p>
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<p>I usually have 1 5d2 with wither a 17-40 4.0 or 50mm 1.4 and the other with a 70-200 4.0 Is.</p>
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<p>I've been using smugmug for about 1.5 years. i love it, totally customizable with site appearance, prices and mark-ups, and galleries. <br>
my site is www.felixtm.com. I have a few public galleries and several hundred private galleries. You never run out of space and if you ever have problems with the site, the tech people usually get back to you fast and with usable solutions. </p>
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<p>many of the sellers copy each otehrs photos. read the sellers reviews and try to find on for the product you are looking for and see what others have written.</p>
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<p>how do you have a 5d mark III ????</p>
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<p>this is also why I sometimes prefer dealing with used lenses. for example if you ever decide to sell your 50 1.4 after it gets repaired or replaced, I know that I'm buying a used lens and the glass defect problem was already resolved so you "broke the lens in" and I reap the regards of a cheaper used lens maintained by a meticulous photographer that noticed the tiny details/defects and took the proper steps to fix.</p>
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<p>www.felixtm.com<br>
event gallery, sports (soccer shots) it's with the 5d2 and 300mm non is (sorry I was to cheap), they are in full res. </p>
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<p>I have both the 1.8 and 1.4. I'm quite happy with the 1.4 and would only consider getting rid of it when I get the 85 1.2, I wont really need the 50mm 1.4 and I could sell it toward the better purchase. <br>
ultimately though, the 50 1.8 is the best IQ you can get per dollar spent especially if used. </p>
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<p>bc-900 works great and has revived many of my old broken batteries. </p>
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<p>I have a few samples of under exposing ambient...<br>
www.felixtm.com<br>
people gallery. </p>
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<p>canon lens prices dont go down, unless a newer better version of a current lens comes out. So this price would go down if they made a III. wait a few months for a used one to pop up, although that would make me wonder why someone would want to sell such a lens. </p>
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<p>Anthony, I think Jessica is inquiring about isolating on white.</p>
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<p>+1 smugmug. I have about 500 private galleries for clients I shot. I never run out of space and the photos are online for life. I still get orders from a long time ago.</p>
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