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markminard

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Posts posted by markminard

  1. <p>Hello, I would like to use my 200mm Canon FD prime on my Lumix GH-1 and am wondering how this will ultimately affect, if it will affect, DPI for any prints I wanted to make. Do I still have an effective 12.1MP's? I'm primarily a film photographer and am wondering if I need to upgrade to a FF sensor in order to best utilize my old FD lens arsenal. Probably won't be looking to enlarge much past 8x12".. Thanks everyone, Mark</p>
  2. <blockquote>

    <p>Seriously, can we just delete what is yet another easily Google searchable thread about a problem that does not exist and is a podium for the same old bitching?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Yes please delete it. I don't want the rest of the world to know about this incredible business opportunity - namely, the dearth of retail locations in the eastern PA area selling traditional photographic chemistry. I'm on the phone tomorrow, getting the ball rolling on my small business loan.</p>

  3. <p>Looks like rock and roll to me. Personally I would never use a film wiper; even the smallest bit of debris on that thing will leave a nasty scratch the length of your film. You'll think it's clean but it isn't. Just dunk your reel in and out of the flo several times and hang it with the taped edge at the bottom and a film clip weighing it down.</p>
  4. <p>p.s. Try to have more than one graduate - I use three: a 128 oz, 64 oz, and 32 oz. It's easier and faster to prepare ahead of time your working solution of hypo-clear and one-shot of flo in seperate graduates while your film is fixing, instead of having to constantly re-wash only one.</p>
  5. <p>You'll need storage bottles for your chemistry; I also use Hypo-clearing agent to shorten the wash time + Photo-Flo to prevent spotting but these aren't mandatory.. Don't forget clothes pins to hang the film and have a relatively dust-free place to hang it. And of course scissors, archival negative pages, and a 3-ring binder for the pages. 68 degree F running water and I think you're all set. Have fun...</p>
  6. <p>Thanks again for the input everyone. I did speak with the owner of the shop that did the CLA and he insisted I send it back for repair gratis; he also said he sees this shutter curtain issue often on the FT-b, but was surprised it went out of whack so soon after the initial CLA. Hopefully another trip to the shop will take care of it.</p>
  7. <p>Thank you everyone for your advice!<br>

    Just over a year ago I sent this camera for a CLA + foam seal replacement; it seemed like they went through it thoroughly as they sent me a CD with 10 pics of it disassembled.. I'm wondering if this is something they should've caught at that time? I'd hate to spend another $150.00 and have it go bad again. Basically I need a working body for my Tokina AT-X 90mm 2.5. I'll get back in touch with ACR; they're the one's who did the CLA last year. Thanks again, Mark</p>

     

  8. <p>Hi All,<br>

    My introduction to "bokeh" came from an article by John Kennerdell in the May/June 1997 issue of Photo Techniques. Mike Johnson finished up the subject with a nice piece at the end of the magazine, and the photographs used to illustrate the article are really stunning.<br>

    Here's a photo I took back in 1996. This is my AE-1 with the Tokina AT-X 90 2.5 Macro. I've seen this lens referred to as "The Bokina" and here's why. That's a chain-link fence in the background! This was hand-held at f4 on Plus-X, probably developed in Rodinal.. Thanks, Mark</p>

    <p> </p><div>00S7em-105303684.jpg.9eaf1b88698abf428fd8e2dde2b097a3.jpg</div>

  9. <p>Hi all,<br>

    I was wondering if anyone had any ideas why this is showing up. It happened on several frames exactly like this

    so I don't think it's a processing/agitation issue. I was using the mirror lock-up mechanism, I'm wondering if that

    might be the cause? This camera (Canon FT-b) was serviced just over a year ago, new foam seals, CLA, etc..

    Thanks for any ideas, Mark</p>

    <div>00S7UI-105267584.jpg.b5e7c421bcda36a80bca63ef09aaab45.jpg</div>

  10. "Looking at his landscape images now I don't about how beautiful they are, but how much each is manipulated. It strikes me he should put a notice on all his landscape images, "The image you see is a representation and does not reflect reality." Just my impression and thoughts".

     

     

    Scott,

     

    In playing Devil's Advocate here, I could say that Ansel should've put the same notice on his late prints of "Moonrise," as they are by no means reflections of the reality he saw before him on October 31, 1941.

     

    I agree with you. I believe that manipulation of the Photoshop variety is fundamentally different than the dodging, burning, and unsharp masking of the so-called "traditional" darkroom. I personally can't equate a traditional silver photograph with a digital manipulation. They are two entirely different forms of expression. And yes, I do believe that a silver print is more artistically valid than a Photoshop print labeled as a photograph. I also understand that those who use Photoshop to produce these images care not one bit what I think :)

     

    I've heard one large-format photographer claim that cropping is an admission of failure; if you can't get it right on the ground glass then you're not seeing "photographically." I'm not that extreme. You'll have to figure out for yourself where you're going to stand on the continuum between those non-cropping large-format contact printers and the Photoshop "painters..."

     

    Mark

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