hans_berkhout

Will looking at many many negatives make you want to stop printing? Imagine the joy of looking at upside down negs!

Fascinating it remains, the present and future digital world.

 

A word of caution though: Jack, step on a scale and record your weight. Keep an eye on it, there's a good cance that you'll be seriously overweight (if you're not so already!) within 5 years. In other words, you'll be spending a good part of your life now sitting at your keyboard, not burning calories. Not good for your health.

 

Enjoy your new cameras!

 

Hans Berkhout MD

I use them, reminds me of my teenage years, long time ago, when I started out shooting (with) Leicas!

The previous answers should get you on the right track. If you are still not happy ( MD's tend to be obsessive/compulsive eh?) keep in mind that certain printing papers have better separation at the higher end than others. And graded vs variable c. can make a difference as well. You can easily get a feel for this by printing stepwedges. Developing time of your paper is another factor.

 

Judge all results when the test prints are dry.

 

I assume that you have lots of time- good luck.

To Jay and other perfectionists. Next time say it correctly: "Ad nauseam".

Sorry for any confusion: "swing" in my above response should read "tilt"!

How do you transport your Sinar? Should be as folows: Detach the bellows from the back and fold (swing) the rear standard forward till it's parallel with the rail. Then swing the frront standard with belllows 90 degr backward till the bellows rest on the groundglass frame(piece of foam in between). Now detach the camera body from the clamp, leave clamp on the tripod. But maybe you were doing this already.

 

Your 2nd play camera should have lensboards that would fit in a Sinar adapter board e.g. Sinar/Linhof (discuss cheaper approach like Horseman to Linhof/Wista/Tachihara) with Jim @ Midwest). Linhof boards will fit Tachihara, Wista DX series. The important consideration is that you want to use your Sinar and Lightweight without having to remove/mount lenses from/on lensboards all the time.

 

Regards,

 

Hans B.

I think I still have a B&W T.V. in my basement- drop me a lne if you are interested!

With the ubiquitous presence/access to computers, lay-out and design is increasingly the domain of amateurs in the field.

Remove the spikes with baskets from ski poles. I mean the old fashioned cane ski poles, from garage sales or your attic.

 

Then epoxy cement these things to the end of your tripod legs.(remove the cap of the leg end, slip the spike/basket unit in with the cement)

 

Or find another way of fixing the baskets to your tripod. It works fine for me.

Ries is quicker to set up; fewer leg sections, ergonomicaly much more friendly locking mechanism. Ries unlocks easily in hot as well extremely cold weather. Gitzo leg section collars can be prety stiff to turn in low temperature.

Ries will handle handle abuse better, it won't suffer from heavy impact-falls e.g when dropped accidentally on rocks. Carbonfiber can crack if hit the wrong way.

 

Gitzo factory service: I have been waiting now for 4 months for a replacement leg section and ball head platform (ran over it with my car). So I bought a J100 agian, having sold one last year to Peter Rip.

I assume you did the usual filmspeed/dev.time testing. If you did, and you are not happy with the tonal range of your print: try a different brand of paper. Your film curve may not match your paper curve anymore. This may lead to lousy separation in the highlights.

Real metric (meters), not feet or "translated" feet. E.G 0.25, 0.50 etc m. instead of 0.33, 0.66, 0.99 etc m. You know what I mean, I hope.

 

Hans B.

To Michael:

 

please check your source. Anti Newton glass should be in contact with the base of your neg, not with the emulsion side. So it should be placed in the upper section of your neg carrier.

 

TMX100 can create Newton rings on both sides. I don't know about other films that would do this as well.

What is a Master Photographer? And a Legendary one?

Kodak has a proven track record of deleting/changing products just when you are used to them. 4x5 only available in 50/box or 100/box if I am not mistaken.

Agfapan 100 used to be my favorite, but I don't like the 25/box only option, too many boxes if you travel with 300 sheets.

Ilford films are excellent, readily available in Calgary, and a choice of 25 or 100 sheets/box.

 

Alkso see Chris Johnson's site with his wife's (Iris) comments.

As mentioned previously, there is a very enjoyable social aspect to slide shows. When my (grown up)kids return home they love a 20-30 year throw-back by means of watching family slides. Lots of hooting/hollering. We do it every few years.

 

When I visit "home" my dad (95) occasionally shows some of his slides, and with my family we sure have fun looking at the shots that bring back countless memories from the 50's and 60's.

Fred, Ken , Grey and others interested; mid febr 2003 Joe Englander will conduct a "Winter in the Canadian Rockies" photo workshop, right in your backyard. Highly recommended, I have attendend several of Joe's w.shops over the years, and learned a lot from him. Also in -30 C weather, with the viewcamera.

 

Best wishes for the season.

With lenses like Telyts I have had friustration in the past with focusing_ very smooth when aiming straight up into the sky, but noticable friction when aiming straight ahead. Cleaning, lubricating etc by Leica made no difference. Same with a 135/2.8 I used to own.

Try a higher temperature, say 25C. TMX100 in Rodinal 1:85 at that temp gives me great mid-tones (in 35 mm).

Frank:

I use 58 quite a bit to darken red/orange rock areas in the scene. Also to lighten young green (deciduous) foliage amidst dark non-deciduous foliage.

A 25 may leave you with shaded areas in the scene very dark. A 23A is almost as effective but has a shorter filter factor. Don`t forget to try a polariser to darken the blue sky.

A 23A or even a 15 can be helpful as well to get more separation between cloud formations during foul weather without bright sun.

 

Most of this info can be found in the books by Ansel Adams (Natural Light, The Negative).

The manufacturer of Sildenafil might be interested: Take it on the run home. Which strength did you take and how long before the shot?

 

With my apologies. The shot shows a bit more than the caption would suggest. It`s a good example though of the excellent principle to always carry a camera.

Whatever the problem is for you (exposuremeters for Michael), deal with by getting more experience with your equipment. The camera is not going to change as you observed. Quit complaining, report back next year after shooting 500 rolls.

One of these companies provides free verbal abuse, I forgot which one.

I enjoyed a show of his work about 1.5 years ago in the Whyte Museum of the Can. Rockies. Very impressive.

I wondered how he managed to achieve his beautiful skies with clouds, assuming that he used non-panchromatic film, any idea?