kl122007

<p>I am very sorry for the confusion topic, it should be red wlmar5cm f/3.5. Not 95 cm. <br>

I double checked with another red elmar, everything is correct and I successfully traced the source. My red elmar has a loosen focusing. The lens body is slight loosen from the focus ring, that it drops a little bit down from the red scaled disk, making me impossible to have correct focus at short distance.<br />IS there any have such problem before, i.e., the helical threads is loosening?</p>

 

<p>Hi,<br>

I bought a red elmar (5cm f/3.5, s/n 101xxxx) from German. After putting on my IIf body, I can not focus distant object at infinity sign from the view finder. Each marking has around 10cm less from the ruler i placed. What should i do if I want to correct it? and is this possible for variation in focus among every LTM lens? <br>

Thank you,<br />Calvin</p>

<p>Hi, <br>

I got a Leica Winder M4-2 from an old stock. I put batteries and after I switched to on position, its winding wheel keeps turning without a pause/stop. Is this normal for Winder M4-2? I don't dare to put it on my M4-2 and afraid it would damage my M body.</p>

<p>Thank you for helping,<br>

Kevin</p>

 

<p>Here is my Kodak Exposure Calculator:<br>

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/kl122002/DSC00066.jpg<br>

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/kl122002/DSC00065.jpg<br>

And the BSI behind:<br>

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/kl122002/DSC00068.jpg<br>

How to use it:<br>

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y35/kl122002/DSC00067.jpg</p>

<p>=====================================<br>

Thank you for helping. I think the calculator is based on black and white film mainly. I tested it with colour film, override my Canon A-1 with manual settings, still producing a very good result. <br>

I believe I also need to compensate for the location. The dial is in Latitude 50degree N, where should be central England (I guess). But my place in in 20 degree N, so I guess some index may need changes.</p>

<p>I have received an exposure calculator made by Kodak London. It is a circular disk with a dial. I played with it a while but noticing the film speed scare is in B.S. Exposure Index, rather than our ASA/DIN. And the value ranged from 16 to 36. <br>

IS there anyone knows how to convert B.S. into the ASA that we used in today? I also compared with my Gossen, noticing for ASA 200 is very close to BS 27, is my estimation correct?</p>

<p>Thank you<br>

Kevin</p>

<p>Not deGASsed, but GAS still. The lensens you used are the best lens that the Japanese have made in the past. It is already known if you have paly with the camera gears for years. So, still, it is considered as GAS from my experience. <br>

If one know how to shot, then there is no need of excellecent equipment. But in actual, technically, the difference could be there.</p>

 

<p>Hi,<br>

I found an old Tessar with Exakta mount but the lens surafce has little cleaning marks and a small area (not larger than a niddle point) is cleaved.<br>

Is there any effect on image formation?</p>

<p>Kevin</p>

<p>I believe only experts would know.</p>

<p>Just wondering whether it has thorium glass. My Meyer Orestor 100mm f/2.8 (exaka mount) has a rather yellow element inside and I don't have a meter to check. <br />Is there any ower in this place and having yellowed Orestor? Please let me know if it is normal.</p>

<p>Thank you. I just checked the website. The boken effect is much more in Trioplan which I really don't enjoy it. <br />I notice there is many overlapping in lens production, as <a href="../photodb/user?user_id=3667779">Subbarayan </a> mentioned, quite a number of lens changed their name and lossing the original informal. So how could I tell which Pentacon is Meyer originally?</p>

<p>A same post was post in another forum, but I wish someone help me to make a decision.<br>

There were two semi-telephoto lens I met in this morning. One is Trioplan and one ith Orestor. Both of them having 100mm and f/2.8 and in exakta mount. Because of their mount, they are rather cheaper than that of m42. <br />I have seen plenty of user support Trioplan but very little on Orestor. <br>

Is Orestor performs badly? And what are their differences in construction ?</p>

<p>Great Exaktas, JDM. <br />I think I will try harder to get a VXIIa. VXIIa has a more vintage looking than that of VX1000.</p>

<p>Agree with Pavel, the West-Tessar performs differently from the East site. In a general term, west Tessar/ morden Tessar performers similary without any significant differences. They are sharp, full of colour and high contrast, but there is no character's soul inside.</p>

<p>Agree, JDM, the wide angle lens might hit the mirror. I don't have a lens now and <br />I believe I need to lock up the mirror when I use it. <br />Your Exakta is hot! And I just ordered a Biotar 50/2 from the bay. THe diapharm auto release feature is inculded in my version. I hope it will fit on the adapter (If no, then I add a close up ring for close up use). And I also got a Meyer Orestor 100/2.8 with a rather high price, but not asmuch as Biotar 75/1.5.<br>

I checked several Exakta bodies but I don't "dare" to get one since I have spent a lot to get a nice condition. Can the Exakta users suggest a mordern (with X-sync flaxh socket) and reliable exakta model? </p>

<p>I don't think the FD stuff is cheap anymore after the summer has gone. Price rised slightly eventhough it seems it is ok. And since Canon did make these adapters for these lenses so it has no conflict to use them. I don't think I have aganist the rule of FD system. <br />Besides the m42 version is much enxpensive than that of the exakta, that's why I won't go for m42.</p>

<p>Thank you Stephen, I have checked that out. BUt I wish to knwo more from the commemts here. <br />Agree with Jeff, I found the exakta is dim when the lens has small aperature. Hard to use when light is limited. And it is one of the reasons I avoid the original bodies. Meanwhile, most exakta bodies I found has problem of light leakage. Most shutter curtain has tiny holes and that's why I avoid them. <br />I had the Topcon 58/1.4 but sold in a many years before. I won't get it again now since it gets more expensive than the past. <br />Jeff, I use old Canon F-1 as main body even though I have a Nikon F. I don't have any shift lens but I have a FD 35/2. It has been enough for me. Besides I have a FL 55/1.2 and it works great. <br /> Full aperature metering started to brother me since I get used to stop down. I enjoy it because I can meter and check the DOF at the same time. </p>

<p>I don't know much about the exakta mounts but all I know is that I did bought a thing called "Canon lens mount converter E" , made by Canon and here is the information from here:<br>

<a href="http://canonfd.farah.cl/">http://canonfd.farah.cl/</a><br>

And I've seen some one can put their exakata lens on FD body with that adapter,<br>

<a href="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55279">http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55279</a><br>

All I know is that most exakta lenses have an inner bayonet for mounting. I don't know there is a mount differences in large exakta lens ( which similar to Canon 50/0.95 LTM that has a special exterior mount made for it) . I searched some of your old posts and discover that interesting findings.<br>

I don'think it would brother me much. I am a film user. I have a used EOS 450D but seldom use it. Digital to me is just an extra support but not in major.<br>

And I believe the reson people won't make exteral exakta mount for EOS might because it has been enought telephoto lens options. If I do need these large lens, I would get an Exakta body.</p>

<p>I just bought a exakta/FD adapter and can't wait to get more lens before it comes. But there are so many great exakta lenses were made and I don't know which should I use. Besides the price in the bay varies frequently so I really hope to knwo the exact price range of it.<br>

Can someone give any recommendation?</p>

 

<p>What I want to ask is Gordon's meaning. I have tried to put a Xenon 50/1.9 on a EOS body with adapter but the diaphragm can not close due to lacking of space for the external button to be pressed. THe lens is just like the one JDM 's photo (1). <br />And hence, I wish to know if there would have the same problem in my F-1. I am worried about that becaus eI ordered a Flektogon with this feature.</p>

<p>That sounds interesting. I have seen an ausJena before, I thought that was a fake so I avoided it. And I notice some of them have the red T on the lens while some are not, but both of them are coated. What does it mean?</p>

<p>I bought a Canon lens mount converter E to use exakta lens. But I wondered whether I coud mount an Exakta lens with auto diaphragm release, ie., with an additional shutter release button bsides the lens. <br />I have heard that some may found problem with their EOS system, but how about the FD system? Will that be the same?</p>

<p>Hi, <br />Just came across the fleak market and I notice there are 2 flektogons 35/2.8 makered with C.Z. Jena and Carl Zeiss Jena respectively with exakta mount. THe price for short form is much cheaper than that of the original one. <br />So is that mean C.Z. Jena is a fake lens?</p>

 

<p>I am intoxicated when I read your replies. The super ikontas are great ! <br /> Thank you for the remindings about Motormatic 35. I will check that when I find one. Mercury is fine but I prefer an Olympus Pen which looks smarter. But because of the limits I won't get the Pen. I have tried Argus C before, and I don't really enjoy the feeling. It is a brick camera.<br>

I think I will get a cheap, handy camera at this this time. SO Vitessa and Ikonta may fall behind the list. Vitomatics are great and their shape is my target. I have a Viotmatic II with skopar already. So the remaining on my list would be Kodak Signet 80. Can anyone comment on this camera?</p>

<p>I have no plan to back to any Japanese camera. There is no reason but just don't want to try them. I wish to back to the German one.<br>

I just checked the price in auction sites. The price is fair but it is still a little higher than last year. I think a folding camera might be good. And I just found some which look like interesting.<br>

1.Voigt. Vitessa;<br /> 2.Super Ikonta B (C or A)<br /> 3.Kodak Motormatic 35 F<br /> 4.Kodak Signet 80<br /> 5.Graflex 35<br>

Which one would you suggest from the list?</p>

 

<p>I just gave up from using classic but now I am going back again. The reason that I gave up because my old Canon F-1 kit helps me a lot, but I am borded just now. I think I won't go for Japanese stuff any longer and wish back to use classic cameras.<br />There are to many and some of them were tried, such as Retina IIIc, Retina reflex, Voig. Prominet, Contax iia, and Leica IIIB. I won't get back and use them again. I wish to have something "new" and not experienced in classic.<br>

And so I am here to seek for "promotion".<br>

Kevin</p>