brooks_lester

Guess I'll stick with Tri-X ,negative film, or DSLR for indoors. I'm new to slides and really

enjoying them. But not in this application.

I am familiar with the issue of shooting conventional daylight-balanced slides indoors under tungsten

lighting - unless corrective filtration is used a yellow cast will result from the tungsten illumination

reading a lower color temperature than that of the slide's.

 

If I'm going to be scanning my slides for PP on a computer, would I not be able to color correct effectively

during my workflow?

 

Or, is it not possible to get pleasing colors from color correcting slides shot indoors under tungsten?

 

Isn't this essentially what print film processors do with negative film shot indoors under tungsten, since

conventional negative film is also daylight color balanced?

 

Thanks for whatever insights you may have.

I scanned some in last week, at default settings. The film had been pushed one

stop, and resulting scans had a green cast. I compensated at the Analog Gain

stage, reduced Green by .30. I was fairly satisfied with the results and did

further correction of the scanned file in PSE 3.0.

 

Today I am scanning some more Fuji Pro400H shot at box rating of 400 and got an

unexpected result: The first two negatives required no color correction - whites

and skin tones were spot on and pleasing. But, the next two negatives I've

scanned have the green cast I encountered on the previous roll.

 

Why would I get good, correct colors and green cast negatives on the same roll,

images shot with the same light, and in the same location (interior living room)?

 

I'd love to arrive at a Saveable Setting for Pro400H but I'm not getting

consistent colors on the scans.

 

Can anyone offer suggestions?

You'll be able to control the large contrast range between land and water to sky. Your sunrise and sunsets will be better. This in addition to a circular polarizer.

I have a Nikon D50 that does a great job as long as its dynamic range is not exceeded. But, its images look "electronic" to me, like a video camera still frame of exceptional quality and resolution.

 

Fundamentally, film and digital photography are different technologies. Film uses a photochemical emulsion - it's a chemical process.

 

Digital uses light sensitive sensors to generate 1's and 0's. Then a chip interpolates that into an image. This is a photoelectric process.

 

Another by product of the film emulsion process is that it creates a more pleasing look as the dynamic range of the film is approached and exceeded. Highlights are pleasing to look at.

 

When a digital sensor reaches its limit of dynamic range the image just doesn't look at pretty as film.

 

Additionally, negative print film has a significantly greater dynamic range than digital. If you want to shoot landscapes, you'll "hold" your skies more readily with negative print film than digital.

 

Film is like a tube guitar amplifier - as you start to overdrive the circuit you get a warm, smooth sound. Try to overdrive a digital amplifier and you'll get a horrible sound.

 

Remember analog tape? It would gently compress as it approached its limits. If you overdrive a digital recording device by 1 bit you get a nasty unusable sound.

 

Spend some time looking carefully at both film and digital images. I think you see that film as a medium contributes it own character to an image where digital is simply a lifeless reproduction of what was there.

Unless yours is defective. I just shot some Fuji Sensia 400 with my T3 and the entire roll is well exposed. With slide film you'll have to think more about what to expose for in the frame since you don't have the latitude of negative film, but the camera is exposing with the same algorithm regardless of the type of film you're using.

You might want to think about the Contax T3. Similar camera, even better lens, more control. Sure, you have to navigate the Mode button to access certain functions like EV Comp, MF, and Self Timer, but this can be done fairly quickly. Aperture Priority has its own dial. It focusses quickly for a 35mm Point and Shoot, and is even smaller than the T2. They are available on the auction site, usually 2-3 at any given time if not more.

 

I just got one a few weeks ago and I really like it. The lens is exceptional; it rivals if not surpasses my Nikon 50mm f/1.8 AF for sharpness and contrast. It operates quickly for such a small camera.

 

You can set a custom function to have the camera fully position the lens with a half press of the focus button - this makes focussing very fast. It is considered to be one of the fastest focussing P and S cameras.

 

For detailed composing use the AF lock button to set focus. You can then walk up to your subject and set a precise exposure.

 

Also, the AF Lock button puts you in Spot AF mode (center mark in VF)while the regular focus mode is a wider zone focus.

 

It's a great camera.