garypeck

<p>One of the things newbies fail to comprehend and plan for is space. You can do a lot in a 10x10' spece provided you have room for lights - which I'll bet, you don't. Cameras and lenses don't mean squat if you can't use light modifiers comfortably in the space provided.<br>

If the gabled roof is low you might want to consider an alternative ie: temporary space that is more usable. Can you place a 6' reflector or panel in the current space, how about a 3x4' softbox? Afterall. that's where your ultimately headed. </p>

<p>I wonder, if you introduced a translucent light panel (bed sheet) tween subject and main light you could accomplish two important things. One - open up two or even three stops as discussed earlier and second - soften the light quality to wrap around and embrace your subject. I recommend LOOKing at examples that appeal to your asthethic and emulating those qualities in your effort. If you were to double the diffusion you could effectively reach f4 or 5.6 pretty easily while stepping closer to emphasize your vision. </p>

<p>Pro's rely heavily on speedlites and studio strobe - and all the technology that goes with it.<br>

Your presentation should demonstrate a basic understanding of this side of the craft.<br>

This can be done inexpensively with small manual flash units and some rip stop nylon.<br>

Yea, it's a pain but if you want to play with the big boys. . .<br>

Gary</p>

<p>Just wait, the more you read the more excited you will become - enjoy.<br>

gary</p>

<p>Run don't walk to the nearest bookstore and get a copy of Joe McNally's "Hot Shoe Diaries"!<br>

This guy can get more out of two Nikon CLS speedlites than you ever imagined.<br>

I have nothing to do with the book, and as I just finished it I know it will solve any problems and provide examples that will inspire you to do a great shoot.<br>

Go check it out.<br>

Gary </p>

<p>You'll have to isolate the green areas in photoshop - convert or desaturate to allow you to plug in a skin tone. Then adjust density to match - might be easier with a rubber stamp tool.<br>

gary</p>

<p>Softbox, softbox w/ grid, very simple and understated lighting sceme with superb taste and execution.<br>

Some of it is done with umbrella and panels with soft box. Excellent contrast control and top drawer retouching. <br>

Gary</p>

<p>Here's another look.</p><div></div>

<p>I would check the camera - or camera settings. Without knowing more info, something "stupid" happened and shot you in the foot! As the processing stats are aggressive yet considered normal for 1,600 asa - I'd look to the camera setup because even if your shutter was slow as your heard it, perhaps the diaphram was closing down and creating the problem.<br>

g</p>

Not as tough as you think, this is a light control shoot. You must grid or spot your lights high so they are out of frame. By doing so you will not light the floor, shelves or anything "reflective". Use strobes with a shutter speed at the top of your range and the smallest practical f-stop to eliminate any ambient light and subsequect reflections.

Put your softbox at the rear of the case if you can to shine forward and fill out the look.

Spotlights will save your bacon.

gary