vincent_sebastiano

<p>Hello,<br>

I have a beautiful Nikkormat FT3 and I would like a similar aperture priority Nikon. I already have the Nikon N2000 so I'm not looking for a FE/FG. I know the Nikkormat EL's have a CDS versus the SBC meter of the EL2 buy they run less for an excellent body. Does anyone have any suggestions or have used both versions. The ELW should be newer as they weren't manufactured until 1975. Any suggestions or experiences with either. I have two AIS zooms with the rabbit ear adaptor so I can use them on either camera. The N2000 is a fine camera but I like the feel of the larger camera's.</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

<p>Vince</p>

Hello,

I have been offered a Konica FS 1 with two Vivitar Series 1 lens, Kiron made. I was also offered a Ricoh XR 2S with a

50 MM and 135MM Ricoh lens. Does anyone have any experience with these cameras? I have a Pentax MX with

several lens I can use on the Ricoh but the Konica kit seems a real bargain. Does anyone know if the first

generation motorized Konica was a reliable camera or if the lens for the FS1 are compatable with the Konica T

series cameras if the FS 1 breaks down. Any suggestions or information would be welcome

Vince

Hi everyone,

is there any real difference between the minolta X 570 and the X 9? The specs appear to be the same, am I missing

anything? Is the newer X 9 of lesser quality than the X 570?

Vince

The advice for Shoe 3 is good but I haven't seen any available. I had bought 2 excellent Shoe 2's for $15. as a backup to the Shoe Fix that's on the camera. That's why I had considered the Quick Flash 310 or the Vivitar 2600 I already have. Would it be a good idea to get the T32 which still works on auto mode and just wait until a shoe 3 is available.?

Vince

Hi Everyone,

I am new to the forum as I just bought my first OM 2. I also have 2 flash shoe

2's in excellent condition. Does anyone have any suggestions as to a suitable

flash? I know the Quick Auto 310 provides TTL but I heard it's a very old

model. Is it still a good choice? Would the T20 or 32 be a good alternative

even if they aren't TTL with the Shoe 2 or would it be better to buy the Shoe

3? I know the OM shoes are prone to ing so having 2 excellent Shoe 2's

makes me lean to keping/using them. If so are there any off market flashes that

work with shoe 2 and provide dedication?

Any advice would be appreciated, I've read so many great reviews about the OM 2

I'd really like to create a decent system to work with.

Thanks everyone,

Vince

Everyone,

thanks for all the great information on the KX. I had a MX 30 years ago and felt it needed the balance of the winder whenever I used a zoom. I'm leaning to the KX but I have been offered a Ricoh XR 1 with a 50MM Ricoh F2 for $45. I know it has CDS metering but does anyone have any experience with this ? It's a toss up between the KX and the Ricoh right now,

Vince

Thanks Tom,

I am aware of the Wiki information but I'm actually interested in opinions from those who used both camera's.

Vince

I am thinking a purchasing a fully manual Pentax to offset my Ricoh XR 10 in

PK mount. What are the advantages versus disadvantages between the KX and MX.

I've heard the KX viewfinder is dim, I have a Minolta SRT 202 which I have no

problem focusing, is there that much of a difference. I like the idea of the

moving needle rather than LCD's. Any opionion or information would be greatly

appreciated.

Thanks,

Vince.

Hi everyone,

I'm back with the same problem and I wonder if it's related to loading the

film. I purchased another FE with new foam seals and mirror bumper. Prior to

loading the film I ran through the shutter speeds and everthing worked fine. I

then loaded the camera, advanced one frame to ensure it was engaged with the

sprocket, took any slack out of the film and closed the back. I then began to

advance the film to reach O on the film counter but on the second advance the

shutter locked, mirror wouldn't come down and the film wouldn't advance. Iv'e

owned many SLR's and never had to advance more than one frame with the camera

door opened but I just read the manual and it suggests three film advances

before the door is closed. Could this be jamming my shutter or is it a

coincidence? I can't believe this has happened on 2 FE's but my FM hasn't

given any problem at all.

By the way, I also tried Eric's suggestion to remove the base plate of my

other FE. However, my son and I could not identify the lever jamming the cog

on the base of the film advance. Eric, if you have a picture or diagram of

what we should be looking for I would appreciate it. Thanks for any help you

guys ( or girls ) can provide. I reaching the point of buying a N2000 to avoid

this problem!

Vince

Hi All,

I think the MD 12 short may have created a jam in the film advance or shutter mechanism. I tried new batteries, setting the shutter speed to B or M90 and manually unlocking the mirror but nothing works. The Nippon Photo Clinic did unjam it for me a few months ago but warned me it would need servicing if it happened again. My main question is, as the camera appears to be in new( mint condition), should I send it in for a $110 standard repair (Essex Camera) plus shipping or just buy another body. Ebay and Keh Photo both offer FE's in the $90-110 range, some claim to be in excellent condition, one states it's in excellent plus condition and recently CLA'ed with foam replaced and priced at $110.

Sorry for the long message but I'd hate to send the FE to Essex and have them say it needs additional repair. Thanks for any advice.

Hi,

I'm Vince. I bought a FE on Ebay in mint condition several months ago and it

worked fine. I then added an old MD 12 but it shorted out, locking the

mirror/film advance. I can manually lower the mirror but when I press the

shutter release the mirror locks and the shutter won't open or film advance. I

took it to the folks at Nippon Photo Clinic and they unjammed the camera ( for

free I might add) and added it if happened again the camera would need

servicing. Well, I just loaded the camera and the same problem occurred.

My question is, servicing the camera wlll cost at least $125. with shipping. Is

it worth repairing? Ebay list's a series of FE bodies in excellent plus

condition feom several reputable sellers from $900-120 and several state the

body has been serviced. Sorry for the long string, the only reason I am hesitant

in buying a new body is that the one I purchased looks brand new and very

lightly used. However I'd to spend $120. and find the problem still exists.

hi,

I just purchased a vivitar 28-85 3.5-4.5 zoom, serial 77443605, would anyone

know who

manufactured the lens? It appears to be in mint condition but I am curious if it

was made by a quality optical company.

thanks,

vince

Hi,

I have a Vivitar 5600 zoom flash that I have long used with my Pentax ME Super.

I just bought a Nikon FE, will this have any trigger voltage problems if I buy

the Nikon module. I could buy a small used Nikon flash but the Vivitar is full

featured. I've been reading so many postings about fried electronics that I'm

getting gunshy

about using the flash. It was a recommended flash for the Pentax, shouldn't it

be fine for the Nikon?

Thanks for any help,

Vince Sebastiano

Hi,

i have an opportunity to purchase a Soligor C/D 28-80 35.-4.5 or a Vivitar 28-85

3.5-4.5 from Keh Camera. I also purchased a Minolta SRT 202 and Minolta X-9 on

E-bay. My questions are, optically speaking, is the Soligor C/D line better than

the Vivitar non Series I lens? The Soligor is rated as a BGN at $21. so it's

tempting, even teh EXis only $39. Also,would these lens be too heavy for a

modern camera such as the X-9 since it's primarily a plastic body compared to

the SRT which is built like a tank. If it is I'd think it's better to look at a

28-70 zoom. T

Thanks for any help you can give.

Vince

Hi,

I would like to try low light photography but don't want to spend too much on

a meter. I've been offered a Gossen super pilot cds or a Vivitar 43 meter for

$20. Which would be the better meter? I have several Wein cells so the mercury

battery problem doesn't apply. I haven't heard much of the Vivirar but heard

the Gossen is prestty good and only takes one Wein cell. Hope someone can help.

Vince Sebastiano