vincent_sebastiano

Jeff, I purchased my first SLR in 1972 at the parent Camera Barn at 1272 Broadway. I went with a professional photographer who dissuaded me not to buy the Minolta SRT 102 they recommended. Rick, Jeff’s info is correct as to Albinar and Star D lens. When I first shopped there I bought a Vivitar zoom, there were no Albinar lenses. In the late 70’s and early 80’s I saw Albinar and there was quite a lot of Star D lens and Photo accessories . Loved to browse through the many camera shops in lower Manhattan in the 70’s and 80’s

Just received a box of 3 Fuji 200 color. Corner of box says made in USA, not Japan. I have been reading Fuji is selling rebranded Kodak color 200 . If so this is definitely more economical. Three rolls of 36 for $25 versus 3 rolls of Kodak Color 24 exposures for $30 I purchased in February.

I purchased the T2 as it was my first SLR camera in 1971 and stolen 6 years later. I did buy a Nikon 8008s body on Sunday and received it yesterday. Camera is in beautiful condition with new batteries. Also came with the original manual and a NIKKOR 35-105 f3.5 -4.5 AIS zoom plus small camera bag. Not bad for $49 plus $7 shipping!

I purchased the T2 as it was my first SLR camera in 1971 and stolen 6 years later

After repeatedly removing bottom the plate to release stuck pawl on the FE I am in no mood to begin again. Buying the 8008s before price starts to rise is good advice! I think I got lucky with the FTBN because it was professionally refurbished. If I had used the FT3 more often I probably wouldn’t have had an index problem . I have loaded the Nikkormat with a new roll of film and even if the prints are fine I will spend $50/60 for a good backup and $15 for a light seal kit for a beautiful Konica T2 I bought a few years ago !

The camera was CLA by John Titterington in 2008 and and I purchased from him that year along with Canon FTBN recalibrated for alkaline battery. I tend to use that a lot which is why I didn’t use the FT3. I am going to shoot a roll of Kodak Gold , it expired 12/22 and kept in a dark and dry closet so it should be fine. I also have a Nikon N 80 and would like a backup came that will let me meter with my pre autofocus lens ( AIS). Though not mechanical, I believe the 8008s with let me center weight meter in aperture priority and manual and there are many bodies available in the $50 range with the K2 Briteview focusing screen. Would you recommend this or should I cross my fingers and go for another FE after my first two had the shutter advance lock up?

The camera was CLA by John Titterington in 2008 and and I purchased from him that year along with Canon FTBN recalibrated for alkaline battery. I tend to use that a lot which is why I didn’t use the FT3. I am going to shoot a roll of Kodak Gold , it expired 12/22 and kept in a dark and dry closet so it should be fine. I also have a Nikon N 80 and would like a backup came that will let me meter with my pre autofocus lens ( AIS). Though not mechanical, I believe the 8008s with let me center weight meter in aperture priority and manual and there are many bodies available in the $50 range with the K2 Briteview focusing screen. Would you recommend this or should I cross my fingers and go for another FE after my first two had the shutter advance lock up?

Well I have compared meter readings for the Ft3 versus a manual Ricoh XR1s and aperture priority Ricoh XR2s and the FTE appears to be off by about a stop. Don’t know if having a new alkaline battery in the FT3 versus new silver oxides in the Ricohs may have created a slight difference. I will be shooting Kodak gold 200 ISO so this may not matter much.

Not just 2 bodiesI also purchased 2 FE’s and both had shutters lock up after one shot! They were in beautiful condition and I reached out on Photo. Net and JDMvW kindly sent me a photo of under the camera plate where I could release the shutter . Eventually got tired of this, bought second FE and the same problem occurred so I sent it back. Your suggestion to compare metering with a second camera up to F16 is a good one and I will try that today. BTW, the N2000 has the Nikon K 2 Briteview screen which is excellent

I had the same auto indexing problem 12 years ago with the el2! The auto index tab would move very slowly when I changed f stops. It had a bad battery drain even though I would carefully turn it off so I gave it away. I am also considering a FM but of course more expensive. Though I would rather get a mechanical Nikon I may consider a Nikon n2000 so my non autofocus lenses have a body. At 72 a bright viewfinder is helpful.

The FT 3 was the first automatic indexing Nikkormat. My problem is regardless of the lens I mount the automatic indexing on camera mount won’t go past F 16 though the lens goes to F22. Will this affect the metering on the camera? I have to assume it will a stop off . I can buy a Nikon FG20 in good condition with new seals or spend over 30 dollars to shoot and print 24 exposures. I have other film cameras, Canon FTBN, Ricoh xr 1&2s and a Nikon N80 so don’t want to send out for a pricy repair. Hope someone may have a suggestion, any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks Mike, I had all back issues for both from 77-87 including the buying guide and all are lost. Really miss Modern Photography and Herb Keppler. I found a few reviews out there and the Tokina seems well regarded. For $41 including shipping and a Hoya Sky filter attached it seems hard to pass up, just wanted to know if anyone else had experience with it. This forum is a lifesaver and the effort everyone puts in and their photographs is truly impressive!

The first was a Konica T-2 I purchased from the NYC Camera Barn in 1971. it was owned by Fred Alba and he later sold third party lens called Albinar. I was 19 and my co-worker was Sid Desfor, formerly head of NBC photography until he retired in 1968. Sid got bored and returned to work in a Wall Street operations back office and trained me in the summer of 69. His brother Max won a Pulitzer Prize for photography during the Korean War. I learned quite a lot from him and loved the camera until it was stolen on 1977 and I bought a Pentax MX to replace it. Just bought a used Konica T2 and it looks like new! Never forgot Sid's first lesson, you don't want blurred photo's so he pointed me at a shutter priority when the store suggested a Pentax Spotmatic.

Hello all, I just purchased a beautiful Konica T-2 and have been looking for a Vivitar 28-90 F2.8-3.5Series 1 for a month without any luck. Would a Tokina 28-85 3.5-4.5 ATX be very comparable despite the one stop difference? I have the Vivitar in Pentax and Canon FD mounts and have always been happy with the results( stopped down) but they seem very rate in Konica AR. The Tokina appears on the E auction site on a regular basis and I don't know if the wait for the Series 1 is worth it. Thought of looking for the Kiron 28-85 version but I already have one Kiron with the aperture locked up and don't have confidence in another!

Thanks JDMvW, Seems like all OM2s models have same basic circuit so either take out batteries if not going to use( always) a good idea or carry extra's just in case.

hello all, I have an opportunity to buy an OM2S in very good condition. Would anyone know the approximate production date for serial number 1002933? I ask as I have read the electronics relating to battery drain were greatly improved over the life of the camera and would like to avoid an earlier one. Thanks to all, vince