christopher_dold

If it's the $25 one then, yes it's probably compatible.

I was warned by a local dealer that 'macro' was put on a lot of lenses which didn't really deserve the term. They focus close, but may not magnify as much as you'd like. It depends how macro you want to go.

I use a set of K mount extension tubes, brand unknown. I've used these with a P30T, a zx30 and now with a K1000d. An external meter and some calculation of aperture allows me to use all my current lenses with this set up.

I favour zoom lenses with extensions as it saves moving the camera around.

There seems to be a set for $53 on KEH.

There's also Retrophotographic.

You may even find ID11 on the shelves at Jessops or other dealers.

7dayshop are good for film and paper, no VAT!

Agree with the comment re distilled water. Rinse, shake and dry;no marks.

Buy it by the gallon at a supermarket in the car\diy department.

Ilford RC paper is plentiful and you can still get twenty extra sheets free in some boxes.

If there's a Jessops nearby, it may be worth checking. I just got two 25sheet packs of MGRC4 glossy for about 1\4 price, cheaper than inkjet paper!

As others have said temperature only matters when the liquid is in contact with the film.

Plastic tanks can absorb heat while developing so stick the thermometer in the top during development and use the measured temperature to determine the time. Ilford give a chart for tempeature coresction that may hold true for most developers.

You can test stored fixer by doing a clearing test with the cut leader of you film (if you're using 35mm. If it doesn't clear in a decent time then make a new batch.

I agree about the cost of photographic measuring cylinders. try to pick them up cheaply second hand or use substitutes. You will mostly need to measure 1+9 for developer and 1+4 for fixer. 5 ml. feeding syringes are available from pharmacies and are handy for concentrated developer. So ong as the proportions are right, it doesn't matter if you mix half a litre instead of 300 ml.

Developer tends to turn brown when it goes off, fixer develops crystals when exposed to air for too long. wetting agent lasts forver as does acid stop. I usually just use a water rinse instead of acid stop because it's too much trouble to go and look for the concentrate.

I'm currently using a home brew thermometer because I dropped my percious Patterson mercury thermometer and my spare is marked in Fahrenheit. Conistency is more important than accuracy.

Very acessible.

I want to see pictures, you show me pictures.

Possibly you could make purchase more immediate. A price guide and checkout would be nice. You can do this though Photobox if that suits you.

Anyone who can make Gateshead look good deserves success.

Agfa 110 with telephoto. I thought it would be a step up from my Kodak Brownie 127 that cost sixpence from a jumble sale. It wasn't. I'm pleased to say that it has finally broken and I won't feel obliged to feed it on cartridges just to see if I can get a decent shot out of it.

I gave up photogrpahy for over twenty years because I thought it took serious money to get a decent camera.

Even that Damart 110 I bought recently for a joke has more going for it. At least it didn't raise false expectations by putting decent picutres on the box so that I'd feel inadequate in comparison.

If I had known back then what I know now...sigh.

>or take out 10 mL for your first roll and dilute the remaining 40 mL of >developer with 40 mL water?

Nearly right, you dilute the 40 ml. of dev with 10ml. of water, filling the bottle up to 50 ml. Now you'll need 12.5 ml because the dev is already diluted by a fifth.

My results with the standard developer weren't good, very grey. I tried caffenol LC+C with ISO 20 and 25 and got better results with the advantage of more plentiful developer, if a little slow.

Finished a roll of adox cms. Loaded it in a tank, didn't have time to develop it so I labelled the tank for later.

Later I mixed up the last of the special developer.

Checked temperature, timed, inverted etc.

Stop bath, fix.

Many inversions of washing, one drop of Ilford rinser.

Open tank... no film.

Don't leave labels on tanks after developing.

I think I've found the right one now.

Guess I'll try caffenol.

Check the bidding history of the bidder who retracted, use 'advanced search'. If they have a history of retracting bids and have bid on this seller's stuff before then report them.

My suspicious mind tells me that the high bidder did not want to win, just to reveal your top bid. You may find that the bidder has won items from this seller and received feedback quickly or not at all, both are suspicious.

The seller could have removed your bid for you, when you remove a did, it shows on your bidding record.

The Zenit camera group on Yahoo have such a guide in their 'files' section. It's illustrated with photographs.

You have to sign up in the usual Yahoo way, but it might be worth it.

In answer to the above, in no particular order.

It's black and white film, I am familiar with the edge 'flare' in colour film, so I might consider putting some cheap stuff through to test.

Jon Goodman, I am using an interslice kit. Both the kit and the instructions are very good. Possibly I need to look again at the fitting of the body side hinge seal.

The spacing of the dark area is about a frame and a half. the Lynx winds film emulsion side out, so presumably the action of wrapping round the take-up spool can cause this spacing.

I think that I shall start with aprocess of elimination. I'll put black tape down the hinge and see if that stops it. I've got plenty of cheap bulk film, and some diafine.

If anyone has had exactly the same problem and found a defintive cure, I would be grateful.

The leak isn't in quite the same position each time, it progresses across the affected frames, so to speak. that and the way it starts near the end of the film and gets worse pushes me toward the idea that the film is getting exposed as it sits on the take-up spool.

I didn't replace the seal on the latch side because it was quite hard to access.

I just wish i'd developed the second roll before I loaded the third :-(.

I got a Minister III and put a film through it, The developed film showed a

light leak starting about frame nineteen at the edge and devloping into banding

right across the film by frame 24.

The effect starts small at the sprocket holes, both sides and then joins up

across the image.

I replaced the light seals and seem to have the same problem.

I thought that the increasing fogging might be due to the film on the take-up

spool protruding further into the path of this leak.

The banding suggests to me that either the leak is really slight and taking a

long time to build up, or it is happening along with the shutter action. Or

possibly the winding action.

The camera was in its ever ready case during use both times, so could there be

some kind of internal light seal that's gone ?

Any suggestions ?

Mike, I've developed some C41 in B\W and done pretty much what you are describing. I got results, so maybe there was some other problem with your film ?

20 centigrade and normal fixing. My tests have come out quite dark, so maybe I'm overdeveloping the films. If I carry on doing it, I think I'll try clip tests in something stupidly cheap like Jessop's Econodev or Caffenol.

"Karl Zeiss Jean"

Does crack affesct your eyesight ?

Possibly the other prices are affected in the same way, with the decimal point in the wrong place.

Mind you, there's a charity shop near me that's asking 25GBP (50$ US) for a Zenit B.

If this is the camera that you provided pictures of in January then you should have no great problem.

It seems to have speeds of 1/25, 1/50, B and T. The last two are for long exposures.

You can calculate f stops;

f stop = focal length of lens divided by diameter of aperture.

I'd guess that your lens has 105mm. focal length. You could measure the aperture directly because it's open at the fron of the camera.

My guess is that it will be from about f11 to f32. I guess that because I've got a kodak 1a here and those are the stops. f32 is quite a small aperture and would explain the warning about nt using it for snapshots.

If I were doing this, I'd get a roll of cheap black and white film of maybe 100ISO and a handheld light meter.

Choose a day with constant light, measure a light meter reading suitable for your film, write down the reading. Shoot eight frames of the same subject. stop 1 1/25, stop 1 1/50, stop 2 1/25, stop 2 1/50 and so on.

Out of those eight frames, some will be over exposed and some under. Choose the best and see how the exposure you used compared to the light meter.

If the shutter goes 'click' and the body and bellows are light proof, then the camera ought to work. Film can be 'pulled' so if FP4+ is too fast at its standard rating of ISO 125 you can develop as if it were ISO 50 and get a different result.

Actually, my suggestion does sound like a lot of hard work, so it wouldn't be so bad to just load up and fire away.

I've got one.

Seventy dollars sounds like a bargain, I think mine was about twice that in the UK.

The true resolution is supposed to be 3200 dpi which is better than the cheap scans from high steet processors. then resoltions above 3200 are supposed to be interpolated (I think). the image files are big enough that I've had to install an auxilliary hard disk. More RAM in the computer is handy as well.

The most annoying feature is the tendency to misalign the edges of frames. This can be overcome by selecting areas to scan.

3200 dpi works out around 400dpi when printed 8x10 which is a fair resolution.

It takes about six minutes to scan a frame at high resolution, but you can preview and decide which images to scan.

It's also a handy flatbed so I can scan prints, photocopy and take picures of small objects straight into a paint program without all that tiresome photography :-)

All in all, it's a handy little tool. Maybe not up to the standard of the professional scanners, medium format holders would have been nice.

The only comaprable machines I can think of are the Canon Lide series or one called Microtech (Mikrotek ?) which is less widely available.

You could probably scan a film in the time it takes to get to Wal Mart and back and save on fuel too.

You might try starting with this link.

http://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/corporation/spotlight/

It's geared towards adult education, part time, evenings, that sort of thing, but colleges which offer evening classes may have a full time prospectus, if that's the sort of thing you're interested in.

I'm just finishing an intoductory course which covers basic use of the camera, film developing and printing along with project planning and landscape. that was done in seventeen weeks of evening study along with independent practical work. That course wasn't based in London, but I don't doubt that there are London colleges offering something similar.

That was a level two GNVQ course, as far as I know, there is no level one course, so it's suitable for beginners.

I've had a quick look through spotlight and a simple search brings up quite a few courses.

I just picked upa Halina 6-4 in a charity shop.

It seems to be functional, but i can't find any info on the web about its

(single) shutter speed.

It looks quite slow, so might I be right in guessing about 1/30s ? I think it

looks about the same speed as a kodak Brownie.

HC110 looks pretty good value! 32litres of developer for fifteen pounds, that's about a hundred rolls of 35mm 1 fifteen pence a roll plus fixer.

Thanks for the info.

I've got a baseline to work from now, so I guess I'll try it one of my manual cameras and see what results I get from different speeds and development times.

I've put three pictures on my gallery. I think that the scanner may be exaggerating grain. I'll try to do some prints in a couple of weeks (college darkroom) and see how they look.

I saw this bulk can of film in a local junk shop. The tin had been opened and

the black bag inside was disturbed so that I could actually see the edge of the

film roll, so i figured there wasn't much point to buying it even for the two

pund asking price.

A week later I figured that it might be handy for dummy film if i needed to

check the feed on any cameras so i went back and found it still resting under a

skylight in the summer sun with the lid off. I knocked the price down to a pound

and felt pretty satisfied with that and some magicubes.

The tin says

100ft 30m, 400 ASA 27 DIN, Fast Speed, Barfen, BBW 400x, OPEN IN TOTAL DARKNESS

(!) MADE IN UK, Dev. By Oct 1981.

There is a label on the bottom of the can that says

Ilford fast Speed 400ASA

I was just going to load a cassete in daylight and then thought 'what the

heck?', so I put it in my dark bag, taped the outer part of the roll, pulled the

first foot or so from the center of the reel and cut that off. I loaded a

cassette and, just for fun, put it in a Nikon AF240 that has been sitting in a

drawer.

I fired off the Nikon as I walked around locally and luckily my taping held and

i was able to wind the film back without sticking up the works. Remarkably, I

had been able to estimate 36 frames just by hand loading.

I had just enough Ilfosol left for a 1+9 mix and some fixer needed using up. The

Nikon defaults to 100 ISO on non DX coded film so i gave this stuff six minutes

at 20C.

Thirty six images were produced! A bit grainy in the scan and the exposure lacks

a bit. Two shots show a nice blurred image of my fingers where I was not paying

attention to what I was doing. There is a bit of fogging around the perforations

for the later frames, these would have been near the end of the film (last in

first out so to speak).

Question is: Is the film actually the Barfen that it says on the can or could it

just be some later film that has been put in there ? The edge of the film

appears to say that it is Ilford Hp4.

Has the film become less sensitive with age so that the open bag has less

serious effect that it might have had when it was new ?

Might I get better results with a different developer and\or ISO setting ?