david_papas

I have not paid much attention to how things work with the forum. Route 395 is great, there

is also Mono Lake, and there is some interesting stuff south of Yosemite on 395 too, old

Ansel Adams country. In the city of Sonoma, there is the northern most old Spanish Mission

in California. That is the end of El Camino Real and as far north as the Spanish got. In San

Francisco, you might try walking around North Beach for an evening and get coffee at Cafe

Trieste, the old bohemian hang out. If you like old ghost towns check out the site

http://www.ghosttowns.com/ There are a lot of old mines and things around Virginia City

near Tahoe.

You might check out the Ghost town of Bodie, it is on route 395 not far from Yosemite. Route

395 goes north to Tahoe and has some other nice places to stop.

I shoot with a 5D and I often rent the 24-105L which I love to use. I also have a 135L f2

which is a beautiful lens, I love to shoot wide open (I just set f2 aperture priority) with it to

get some great out of focus effects. it is a good compliment to the other lens.

There is a preference where you can have ACR preserve settings in an internal database

instead of creating the sidecars, at least in 4.1.

Keeble and Shuchat in Palo Alto has one too. about 1hr. south of SF

650.688.8700

Pro Camera has a 350 for v series listed in their catalog, I don't know which one it is. They

only just started renting the H series lenses. If Calumet in SF does not have one, they may be

able to get one from another store.

I know Gassers has the only 40 CFE IF available which I have rented before, you may have to

suck it up and deal with them, sometimes it just depends on who you talk to there.

good luck

You might see if New Lab in S.F. still has drop off and pick up in Palo Alto.(At Keeble and

Shuchat I think) They are the best E-6 lab left in the bay area.

You will probably have to connect the Pocket Wizard directly to the digital back. Usually when

the digital back is being used there is a cord from lens sync connection to the digital back.

Then there is a pc socket on the back where the sync to the strobes is plugged in. That is

where the pocket wizard should go, via the cord that comes with the Pocket Wizard.

The Raw Plug in from CS3 should handle your D200 files drectly without going through the

DNG process. There is a new 4.1 version of raw capture that you may want to download and

install anyway as it has many new features. You will have to read the install directions as the

plug in locatin has changed in different versions.

The 4.1 version installed in CS3 will definitely be a lot more fun for you to work with.

Make sure you include a gray card or some sort of color checker in the shot. Then as long as

you are shooting raw, you can neutralize the card in what ever your raw convertor software

is. If the lighting is consistant color wise, the painting should match.

Did you shoot Color Negative film? New Lab in San Francisco will still run color neg film in

their E-6 Line. You may want to contact them first. Make sure you mark your film very well

before sending it in or it wil get run in C 41.

http://www.newlab.com/traditional-services/e-6_processing.html

I am sure there are labs in most big cities that will still do this.

The normal way was to run somthing like vericolor neg film in Ektachrome chemistry(E6)

I have gotten batteries for my 5D from SterlingTek. The batteries are inexpensive and work

great. I think a lot of people reccomend them. They have other battery types as well

Most people who shoot events and such use some sort of external battery booster like the

Quamtum Turbo, which speeds up the flash dramatically. Also when using the internal

batteries, they will start to run down and recycle even slower very quickly.

In most bigger metro areas you can rent these.

Do you mean EU 2000i ? I have used the EU1000i, mostly to recharge my invertor battery and

run the strobes from that. But it will work with a 1000 ws dynalite in a pinch. That series of

generators is very quiet. Being more powerful, I would think the EU2000i would be a good

choice if you did not need to put more then one pack on it.

Check this site

http://www.ghosttowns.com/states/az/az.html

I have this lens on my Sinar, I was originally told it would not work. I have a custom made

deep lens board. You might try taking the bellows off and see how close the rear element is

coming to the ground glass. there is a flange to "film plane" spec. Sometimes the bellows is a

problem. Even if you are not doing movements, it may not compress enough. I don't know

specifially about Linhof, wide angle bellows usually compress more.

I would hope there is a warrenty on the repair after only 10 days!

I could be wrong, but I belive that Hasselblad has been retrofitting earlier lenses with the

newer stronger mainsprings that come in the CFE and CFi series lenses. You might ask about

that too.

I aggree with the part about making sure the PC post is no loose it self. These early ones

have always been a problem with the cords being loose. There are some specifically for the

"C" type lens connector which work better. Check paramountcords.com

You should be able to install the newer version over the old one without having to re-input

your key. You can try "check for updates" in the menu.

You don't have an extension tube attached by any chance?

The front ring only optimizes the lens performance, you should be able to focus at infinity no

matter where it is set. Do you have other lenses to compare?

Do you have the beta version installed? There is a lot of information about removing it first

http://photoshopnews.com/2007/05/01/photoshop-cs3-beta-due-to-expire/

The H2's come with improved batteries, even though they are lower voltage they are

supposed to work longer. They need the new charger as well. You are not supposed to mix

batteries and chargers. As far as I can tell from Hasselblad's site, the newer batteries are

backwards compatible with the H1. I dont' know about the other way. One other reason I

think they introduced them, is that on the H3 they power the digital back as well.

I have heard of people in your situation having some success with contacting abobe directly

about this, but just involving a lot of phone time, but well worth it I would think

I think that is called the "control box". I think they got absobed by Imacon at some point.

Those systems do show up on ebay frequently, you may be able to get another complete

system cheaply.