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john_williams

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Posts posted by john_williams

  1. Bob, FWIW, Thanks for your efforts on this item and other site work. Remember though, no good deed goes unpunished. <p>

    To the rest of you spoiled little whiners - <b>lighten up on Atkins.</b><p>

    Happy New Year <p>

    (especially to those of you who will be starting your own site since, apparently, you have it ALL figured out).

  2. Sorry, I cannot respond as one of your "fellow pros," but what kind of shooting are you/will you be doing? <p>

    You mentioned something about weddings above and a couple of weeks ago that you have shot with 1D's and were maybe interested in sports packages. Would help to know to give any kind of useful response, if you want help.

  3. Don -

    <i>

    " Canon used to offer a book named "Lens Work" which was in essence a detailed catalog with MTF information, construction information, a bunch of information on their basic lens technologies etc. Part puffery but chock-full of great information. I found it extremely useful when I put together my EOS system in the early 90s. I don't know if they've put out one recent enough to cover most of today's options but if you're a gearhead-type shooter it's a good read, worth the price just for the entertainment value :)"

    </i> <p>

     

    I saw an add for the new Lens Work III in EOS Magazine (Brits). Don't have the copy right now. It was in pounds but something like $20 or so if I remember correctly.

  4. One to perhaps try is the "Short Course in Canon EOS 10D Photography" by Dennis P. Curtin. Spiral bound, 124 pp. This is one book in the series of Short Course books. ISBN is 1-928873-39-1. About $35 USD.

     

    Available at amazon.com etc.

     

    Good luck.

  5. I had some shots look just like this after I put the CF card in a reader/writer, then copied the shots (about 180) off of the CF card onto my hard drive, and then copied a few of them back onto the CF card. About six or so shots ended up looking like yours. <p>

    Don't know exactly what caused it other than possible burping from copying out of folders on CF card, then putting back onto the CF card w/o folders as a huge mass copying of most of the 180 back onto the card.

  6. I use the EP-EX15 extender on the 10D but I have removed the optics from it because I did not like the viewfinder image and readouts getting smaller to see.

     

    Like everything else there is a trade-off that you must decide what is right for you. By removing the optics, the viewfinder image and readouts stay same size, but because you have the extender on and your eye is that much farther from the viewfinder image, you have to move your head/eye around to see whole viewfinder and readouts. So, that is the trade-off: less smudges vs. more head/eye jockeying to see it all.

     

    Worth trying both ways to see what is best for you. You may decide that you can live with the smudges which are really not a big deal anyways.

     

    Another issue with the extender on is that the extender is on - it sticks out and gives something more to be hit when your camera swings around your neck/shoulder on it's strap. Also, unless you fit it perfectly, the extender has the potential to always become loose (and maybe even pop off and get lost)as it hits other stuff.

     

    In short, it can solve one problem - but at a price in other problems. You have to decide the plusses and minuses.

  7. I have used the EP-EX15 on a 10D but with the optics removed from the extender. Viewfinder looks the same, magnification wise. The only downside is that you must jockey your eye/head back and forth a little more to see whole viewfinder and or readouts on bottom of viewfinder. But, if you want the extender just to get your nose away from the rear LCD, it works fine. You really have to try it both ways to see if you like it. I do now, after I got used to it.
  8. I won't say its "normal" but it has been happening to a few 10D owners.

     

    Mine rubbed off almost immediately too. And that with being under BIG ED.

     

    Someone made a mistake in specing out the ink or surface or whatever.

     

    No big deal - does not hurt anything. SN can still be ascertained by service people etc.

  9. Stay away from Park Deals AND from Express Camera (your other post about cheap prices). Both places are shady. PArk Deals has no ratings on a couple of ratings sites (too new) and their internet address is on yahoo, not their own domain . . .

     

    Friendly advice:

    Stop wasting time searching for the lowest price - just go right now to a reputable dealer like B&H or Adorama etc via photo.net link. Pay the going rate and be assured of not getting screwed. You seem like a prime candidate to get taken advantage of.

  10. Or, if no lens wrenches etc, a rubber surface such as a round flat jar opener or the bottom side of a mousepad that has a rubberized feel.

     

    Put these rubber things on table and then press down on them with the lens and filter and turn. Works more often than not.

  11. Aware of what? That all affected individuals actually read things before they agree to what is stated?

     

    This is not theft. These terms have been agreed to upon signing up.

     

    Regards, John

  12. I too have the 20-35 Tokina and love it, but the question did not ask

    about that lens.

     

    <p>

     

    I second Bob Atkins. Buy a good 20mm and I would say get a Nikon one.

     

    You say you do mostly landscape and some portraiture, so that means

    you have time to "zoom" with your feet if need be when using a 20mm or

    your present 28-70. Sounds like you don't really need a 20-30 zoom

    range according to your present shooting needs. But, then again, that

    may change.

     

    <p>

     

    Yes, that is why these questions are kinda difficult to answer. In

    fact, they can never really be properly answered - it is a personal

    choice of yours.

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