siu_fai_au1

My 6006 charger has a voltage selector and I think the 6008 charger is "auto detect". Look at your charger, if it says 110-240V than it should work fine in Australia.

Siu Fai

Yes but no Rollei 6x6. I have a Yashica Mat that has a 80mm f3.5 Yahsinon lens. Obviously, the 3.5 Baby 4x4 Rollei is another one that does not have a 75mm lens.

Siu Fai

The last collector's edition is the Aurum-Platin, which was released in 1989. The plain Platin was released in 1984.

Siu Fai

The other difference between the CL1 and CL4 is the way auto-modes are set. With the CL1, the auto settings are fixed and the settings vary with film speed. For example, the F8 setting for 100iso film changes to F8 +2/3 stop for 160iso film. The CL4 has fixed aperture settings which is more ergonomic IMO. Here F8 is alway F8, no matter which film setting is used and fill-in is simply set by changing the filmspeed. You can also reduce power output in manual mode to 1/2 and 1/4th with the CL4 while the CL1 is full power only.

Overall, I find these extra features worth the higher price. So I strongly recommend getting the CL4 instead if you can stretch the budget. If not than try get an used CT-3 or CT-4 instead. You can add TTL to the CL4 later when you need it (think of softbox, macro, etc).

Siu Fai

If you don't need TTL than just leave out the SCA356. The 45CL4 is slighty more expensive than the CL1 but the CL4 is easier in use.

If you prefer TTL, you can also pick up an old Metz 36CT2/3, but you will miss the extra grip that those hammerhead flashes offer. Braun and Philips has made SCA flashes as well, but they are quite rare.

Siu Fai

The EVS of the first F model works differently than the E models. You cannot permanently unlock the EVS. Changing exposure is done by changing the aperature value. When doing this you push a small chrome rim under the wheel which unlocks the EVS. EV is always locked when changing shutter speed, even when you push the chrome rim under the aperture wheel (I just tested myself).

Siu Fai

I think the numbers are the angle of the two prism. The 6 degree is more accurate than the 4. I have one but forgot which.

Any split prism work correctly only when it is looked with one eye . So if you use it with WLF than the other eye will always blackout.

You can but you do not get any automatic exposure with it. The Canon flash is TTL and M only and it does not have aperture/computer modes.

Siu Fai

Perhaps it's me, but my hands are too small to use the Metz 45CT-x Rollei combo. I cannot reach the focusknob when holding the flash in my hand. I think you need really big hands to use this combination comfortably.

A smaller third party handgrip works much better.

Siu Fai

Andres, the finder on of both cameras are type 1 finder from the C220. The original type 2 finders are different.

I guess you now understand why the type 2 finders are wanted and why the seller has swapped it with type 1 finders :)

Siu Fai

Never used a ETRS but I think I know what you mean. The Mamiya C330F/S and C220F has a WLF tat you described. I find this a major improvement over the old type-1 finder of the C330 and C220.

Siu Fai

Prochnow made a mistake there. The 2.8F is definately heavier than the 3.5F. My 2.8F weights 1255g and my 3.5F weights 1205g. Both first models and both with CZ Planar.

I prefer the 3.5 for street photography, simply because I can put a H-1 (UV) filter to protect the viewing lens from scratches and have the camera ready to shoot all the time. Can't do that with the 2.8F.

Siu Fai

Kelly, the Mamiya C330 weight a lot less than the old C3 and C33 but it is still about 0.5 kg havier than a Rolleiflex. However, if your looking for a 6x6 system(!) than the C330 isn't much heavier than any other system. In fact, the Mamiya is the lightest of the three 6x6 system I own (the other two are Rollei 6006 and Kowa Six).

Siu Fai

I don't have a Hassy but I have a Rollei 6006 and several Rollei TLRs. My 6006 (Planar HFT) give me contrastier slides while the Planar of the 2.8F is a tiny bit sharper. In use, the 6006 weight a hell lot more and much bulkier than the F but the meter is very accurate and I like having WYSIWYG with DOF.

Siu Fai

I have this hinged shade for my 180 Super but I find it pretty awkward in use. Instead, I'm now using a rubber collapsible shade. It is much smaller and much easier to carry. The rubber shade does block part of the viewing lens but it does not show up on the focusing screen. Another drawback is that you need to remove the chrome protective ring to install the hood.

Siu Fai

It's a late 3.5F. Probably a so called "White Face" model. It's one of the desirable models. If there is a 12/24 switch next to the film counter than it can also use 220 film. See here for some features:

http://www.siufai.dds.nl/Rolleiflex35F.htm

Siu Fai

There is a device called Rolleimeter which adds a rangfinder on the Rollei sportfinder. Its for the 2.8C,D and E (maybe A and B too), and 3.5 MX to E. It does not fit on the later models with removable hood.

For Raid, the Mamiya Porrofinder does not fit on the Rollei. The Nikon Porrflex was a special one. I have the CdS Porrofinder and the Rollei prism and the Rollei prism is much brighter and it has a much higher magnification.

Siu Fai

It's increase 2 stops.

If 2x means doubling exposure than the 0.5x in the beginning means, errrr......

Don't believe in everything what your read/ been told. The P66S is definately not an all plastic machine. Both top and bottom are solid aluminum and the unit weights over 8 kg. I wonder where Diego and Evan get the idea of the P66S not being professional quality.

The AF of mine works fine, even on glassless mounted slides.

Siu Fai

I'll definately go for the P66S. The P66S uses standard 250W/12V bulb while the old 300W/500W bulbs on the P11 are hard to find. The P11 is mechanically a very sofisticated machine but is also prone for jamming if it's not adjusted properly. The P66S is basically the big brother of the P355 and mechanically very simple.

Regarding lens, the 2.8 S-Heidosmat was the high-end lens at that time but the current AV-Xenotar will also fit on both. FL of lens depends on how much room you have to setup the projector.

You'll be very disappointed if you use glassless mounts. The slide but pop severely and just a very small part of the slide will be sharp. So, bring a tray of glass mounted slides with you to test the projector. A tray full of glass mounted slides is pretty heavy and the old projector may have trouble working through the whole tray. If so than it needs a good CLA.

Siu Fai

These stars may well be some bubbles in the glass. I have some of these in the Xenar of my Baby Grey.

It's no big deal sicne it has passed the quality check of Herrn Franke und Heidecke.

Siu Fai

Isn't the powercord the same as the one used for computers? I don't have the P11 but have the P66S, P360 and P3800 and all three use standard powercords.

Siu Fai

Koen,

I think the "smear" is just dirt. You probably already noticed that the smear is on the glasses of both grey and white parts. The coating is part of the white side only while the grey side can be perfectly clean/transperent.

Siu Fai

Try tensioning and releasing the shutter with the lenses taken off the camera. If it's a shutter problem than you should notice this right away.

Siu Fai