siu_fai_au1

Randall, the rear cell goes off in the same way as the front cell. You don't need to remove the shutter retaining ring to remove the cell. Just keep the shutter on the board and remove the rear cell. Use rubber glove to get more grip if it is fastened tightly.

 

Goodluck!

 

Siu Fai

Winfried is right. The shutter is stepped and the aperture is not.

 

Siu Fai

This is an easy DIY job. You can unscrew the two cells by hand and the dirt is most likely on the two surfaces that are facing the shutter. Use rubber gloves to increase grip if the cells are fastened tightly. Clean the two surfaces, screw the cells back on and it is fixed.

 

If you don't want to take the risk than you can bring the lens to any repairperson. This is a simple repair requires no more than 5 minutes to do. No tools required except a pair of rubber gloves.

 

Siu Fai

The E and the F do have different screen. The screen in the F is often referred as Rolleiclear and this screen gives much brighter corners than the older screens. The Rolleiclear includes a microscopic fresnel lens which produces the brighter corners. For the older models, F&H sold an accessory called Rolleigrid, which is a fresnel lens that you can put on top of the screen. Retrofitting of Rolleclear was another option but this involves recalibration of the viewing lens due to the difference in the screens thicknesses.

 

Siu Fai

My take is that the locking mechanism has been assembled wrongly. About 5 years ago, I opened up mine and I had the same after assembling. I then opened up my other 650 and found out what I did wrong.

 

Sorry, but I can't recall what exactly went wrong and how it should be. But I do recall that it was a tricky thing requiring compressing a spring before putting everything back together.

 

Siu Fai

Steve, check the matte part of the screen as well and see if the focus match with the split prism. Some split prism are off a little but can still be used as an aid for quick focussing.

 

If there is a difference in screen thickness than you have to adjust the viewing lens, and the viewing lens only. It's a delicate procedure often requiring the removal of the front panel.

I have the same model but with a CZ Planar. It's a first F model with the planetary gear type shutter. The couple is built-in and you cannot decouple it.

 

Siu Fai

The older Rollei SL66E and SL66SE offers TTL metering (spot for the SE) and are fully mechanical cameras with manual wind. The meterless SL66 is more common but the E and SE models do show up from time to time. The SL66s have FP shutters and bellow focus. The lenses are the same Zeiss designs as for the SLX/6000 and Hassy but often sold for much less. But you have to be carefull when buying lenses since the older ones do not suppport the meter of the E and SE.

 

Siu Fai

Any replacement screen comes with the proper tool. No need to take out the tweezers. The screens are the same as for the 650/620/600, I have changed mine to one with the split prism.

Thanks Ron. I'm surely interested in the 600 part book. I went through the 650/620 repair manual and like you said you have to dissemble the whole camera to get to the shutter. Once you are there, you have to dissemble that as well. I guess I have to take a couple of days off to do it :(

Does anybody know where exactly these bumpers are located? I got a copy of the 650/620 repair manual and I can't find them on the "exploxed charts". The 600/630/RT shutter should be the same as the 650, right?

 

I have a RT that has this problem and it doesn't X-sync above 1/30s even after removing the gum. I'm brave enough for a DIY and I already have a spare 600 to pratice on. But I want to go through the whole procedure virtually before taking out the screwdrivers.

 

Siu Fai

Not that it really matters but I have opened up my Vb a couple of times and the amount of plastics that is used in this camera is about zero.

 

Siu Fai

The main difference between the three types of models is that only the E2 and E3 have removable screen and finder. The E and E2 take the slightly smaller size lenscap while the E3 share the same cap size as the F. The E and E2 are equiped with a 5 elements taking lens while the E3 is a 6 elements. All E models can be equiped with an uncoupled meter and have EVS lock that can be disabled.

 

HTH,

 

Siu Fai

I have remounted my first 100 slides to A.N. since they pop really badly on my P66S. The auto-focus tool care of the center but the edges got really soft after popping.

 

Siu Fai

I have used mine 80mm hood on my 55mm several times and it didn't show any significant vignetting. But those attemps were made at F16 or F22, so perhaps you do get vignetting at larger apertures.

 

I only tried this once or twice since I do have the original bulky hood with the flip up top section.

 

Siu Fai

On a Rolleiflex you need to remove the front panel first before you can remove the front cell or group. You may be able to remove the front element using a spanner wrench but I don't think you can remove all elements without removing the front panel.

 

HTH,

 

Siu Fai

There are two different 90 degree prism. The older one that looks very similar to the 45 degree and the new one you mentioned. Most people seems to like the older one better.

I think you should be able to use the other connector if you put an extension cord between the 356 and the 305. If I remmember correctly the number of the cord is 307.

I went for the Canon Powershot S50. I didn't felt the need for another SLR and the G5 is too bulky for carry around all the time. The S50 is basically a G5, but without a hotshoe, slower lens and fixed screen. The A80 was interresting as well but I want a camera that can store files in RAW format and that can use Microdrives.

 

Siu Fai

The third picture is typical for lens separation. So I guess you have more problems than just a scratched front lens.

Oliver, I think you meant the UPPER left green LED next to the battery warning LED. The green LED is the flash ready indication when using the SCA adapter.

 

Siu Fai

It's the right lever on the front seen with the lenses facing you. You'll see the red dot hidden under it when you have turned off the double exposure prevention.

 

Siu Fai

The best reference books I have seen are the Rollei Reports (1-5) from Claus Prochnow: http://www.rollei-report.com/html/rollei-bucher.html

 

The books are written in German but there is an Engelish text translation of the Report 1. He is working on the translations of the others.

 

Siu Fai

Conrad, the F1 and E3 are different models (I have them both). The original F1 was the first model with the coupled Gossen meter. Compur designed a special shutter with a extra set of gears around the shutter to transmit the set EV to the meter. The F2 model has this same shutter but with the interlock removed. So technically, it is possible to remove the interlock but I have no idea what kind of modifications this transformation from F1 to F2 involves.

F&H was not satisfied with this special shutter with the planetary gears. Due to the extra gears, the shutter was larger than the standard 00 shutter, hence the increased lens distance from 43mm (E, E2) to 45mm (F)). They need to find an alternative to have the meter coupling included for the 2.8F (this is the reason why the 2.8F was introduced several years later than the 3.5F1). The solution was a extra set of gears outside the shutter and under the aperture dial. This extra gear allows the use of the standard Compur shutter and to be used for the 2.8 model.

 

The 3.5E3 was a modified F3 without the EV transmitter under the aperture dial but with EVS. So the E3 is the F3 without the meter coupling but with a EVS system that can be disengaged. The E2 is the E model with a removable WLF. Internally, the E/E2 and E3 are quite different. The difference in shutters (E/E2, F1/F2 and F3/E3) is the reason why the selftimer handle/knob are located differently.

 

Siu Fai

There is no way to decouple the interlock except when changing aperture.

The serial number of the first model does NOT start with the 3,5F. These model indications are later creations. My first model 2,8F and 3,5E3 both have these model indications but my 1st model F (the one with the interlock) does not and just shows 22024xx. The first model is the only F model that has this interlock. The interlock is removed from the 2nd model. 3rd and later on models have a different Compur shutter.

 

Siu Fai