siu_fai_au1

You need half stop extra (+0.5) to compensate for the Mutars.

 

Its true that the screen is much darker but that is caused by the small viewing lens. The

taking lens is much larger hence you need just half a stop compensation.

 

Best regards,

 

Siu Fai

Wow, you lucky guy. I wish I can afford buying a FW or a Weitwinkel. Instead I first bought a Mamiya and later on a 0,7X Mutar.

I have a mix set of PQ (80mm) and non-PQ (50, 150) lenses and the non-PQ lenses really slow you down considerably. The stop down is done at all modes except shutterspeed priority, so you have to live with the delay and the "click" most of the time.

The Rolleigon was made by Tokina and it operates the same way as all non-PQ lensen. So everything is done at stop-down, no aperture setting indication in the viewfinder but all exposure modes are available. You do get a noticable time delay because the camera need to meter first and you can't meter at low light. But all modes are fully operative. Somehow the short delay is there even at full manual, which I have never understood.

 

I have heard that the Rolleigon are very good and some claims it even outperforms the Planar. But I never had one of these so I don't know this first hand.

 

Best regards,

 

Siu Fai

I have both the RT and the 1nRS and the image in finder is indeed dimmer then a regular EOS model. But you get use to that very easily and even with slower zoom lenses it is very well usable indoors in dim light condition.

 

If you have a camera with DOF preview then you can simulate this by close down the aperture by 1 stop and you will see if this still acceptabel or not.

 

Siu Fai

Ferdi is correct about the lens distances but both the 3.5F and the Magic share the same 45mm size hence it is relatively easy to find the correct lenscap in cast it doesn't come with one. Any bayonet II filter will fit but non of the regular lenshood will. The outer bayonet of the 2.8A has a wider rim hence only the rare lenshood made specially for the 2.8A will fit. An alternative is to look for a 3rd party lens hood that fits in the inner filter bayonet.

 

I only shoot one roll with mine and the result were indeed quite soft. But mine has the original Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar.

The SLX has shutter-priority AE but of course also full manual. On AE mode, you push the DOF preview button and the aperture is indicated on the lens. Strange thing is that at full manual the meter on the lens is covered and you do not have metering. So you need to first set the lens to A, meter, and then set the aperture value.

 

I have a 6006 which has the same meter as the SLX and it is very accurate.

 

I'm not sure if spare electronics are still available but price of original spares must be very high, so if you burn your electronics then it is more cost effective to find a new body then have it fixed.

I have a mint RT that had this problem. Cleaned it myself several times but the problem came back and in particular flash-sync was inconsistence. Send it to the person on the auction site that offers this repair and he cleaned and put new bumper-foam in it. He did an excellent job and I really wish I had send the camera to him earlier since this would have saved me time and several partly exposed shots.

If it is the top red LED then this means that the battery is almost dead and it need to be charged.

I own both and they are very different. In short: if you want a camera to impress people then choose the RS, for general shooting choose the RT ;-)

 

If you choose for the RT then check the shutter carefully before buying. The 600/RT-serie shutters have foam bumpers and most of them have deteriorated. You can have it fixed for about 70$ and it is well worth it.

I think the P66E is the same as the P66A in Europe. The P66A is grey while all other P66 series are black. The P66A was the first model and has a 150W lamp and do not have dimmer for disolve projection. The others are 250W and have a dimmer built-in.

I have both a 6008 set (50, 80, 150) and a Mamiya C330 set (55, 80, 135, 180 Super). Even after buying the 6008, I still do not want to part with the C330. A three lenses C330 set is actually much lighter than any three lenses 6x6 SLR set, so for me it is much more suitable for travel. I really don't understand why people keep saying that they are heavier than others. They are if you are comparing them with a fix lens TLR but simply not if you compare them with any other 6x6 system. The C330 is also smaller than the 6008.

 

The down side is that the Zeiss optics is better. The simple single coating on the Sekor is simply not on par with the modern HFT on the Rollei. Contrast is lower and the lenses are more prone for flare.

If you make a hobby out of shooting directly into the sun and don't like pentacon shape reflection than you should avoid the Mamiya. I have a C330 with four lensen (55mm - 180mm Super) and love it. But the lenses are prone for lensflare, in particular when shooting directly into the sun. The drawback of the TLR design is that you cannot see the effect, hence there is no ways to judge whether this is a bother or not. With a SLR, you can stop down and change the framing a little to put the pentagons on a place that is less annoying. Nevertheless, the Mamiya is great for general purpose. The lenses just don't like being lit directly ;-)

 

If you do shoot the sun a lot than you need mutli coated lenses. I have a good experience with the Rollei HFT coatings. A Rolleiflex SLX standaard set is quite affordable.

I have tested my 540EZ on a 300D and the Speedlite will not go off. So no manual flash on this combo.

Not this combo, but I have used the Canon 250D on my Mamiya C330 with the 135mm lens. The results are very good. I need to correct parallax with the Paramender but the combo works fine. Wide open, the result may be not that good but you need to stop down for DOF anyway.

 

I never tried it with the 80mm since I prefer the longer lens and working distance.

I would love to see how that looks. Where are the pictures?

The 2.8F with meter weights 500g less than the C330 with the 80mm lens. The 3.5F is about 50gr lighter than the 2.8F.

 

If you want a lightweight pack around camera than take a look at the Rolleicord Vb. It weights less than 1 kg, sharp Xenar lens, is cheap, takes cheap Bay I filters and hood and has brighter screen than the older Automats.

 

Siu Fai

There is no internet site that describe those difference in detail. In short, the type1 3.5F has the complex shutter with EV coupling, type 2 has complex shutter but no EV coupling, type 3 and on has simpler shutter. During the rest of the production, there were some smaller modification like 12/24 switch, plan parrallel glas option, meter and feet distance scale and finally the lattest are the White Face (script: Rollei-Werke Franke & Heidecke 3,5F #serial#).

 

About all type 3 has six element lenses.

 

Siu Fai

Accoording to Prochnow, JSK also changed their 3.5 Xenotar from 5 to 6 elements right

after CZ did. The Rollei Report 2 actually include the drawing of the four different lens

design. He didn't gave any lens serials for the JSK, only for CZ (>2.723.002).

 

If you need an estimation, '61 should be about right.

 

Best regards,

 

Siu Fai

Marc, F&H made the Rolleigrid fresnel lens accesory that you can put on top of the ground glass. Search around and you'll be able to find it. It brightens up the corners significantly while retaining the snap-focus of the original screen. With the Rolleigrid, you do not need to adjust the focus while with a different screen you problably need to shim te screen or adjust the viewing lens.

 

Best regards,

 

Siu Fai

The original Automat is smaller then the Seagull. So I do not think that the Seagull will physically fit inside the Automat case. The later E and F are about the same size as the Seagull. I do have the F-case but my Seagull is the simpler knob wind model, so I can't check this for you. Sorry.

David, the only functional difference between the 6006 and 6000 back are the extra contact that transmit what is set at the film speed dial. All 6006 backs come with a film speed reminder dial but only modified ones transmit the setting to the body. The back that transmit the film speed setting has extra contacts. If I remember correctly than the modified back should have three contact stripes per set (six contacts in total). The original 6006 back has only two contact stripes per set.

Get the cheaper 6006 back for your Astia and your problem is solved.

No first hand experience here, but what I have read is that the viewfinder coverage of the Norita 66 is very poor. You'll miss a centimeter or so from what will be recorded on film. I personally will find this a major drawback.

 

If you can live with a f2.8 than you the Kiev 60 is just right for you. Viewfinder coverage is better than the Norita 6 (and the Pentacon 6). It's operates like a 35mm SLR and it is dirt-cheap.

Charles, the meter in my Auto 66 seems to be accurate as well. But I haven't tried it with film.

 

There are literature available that shows the program characteristic of the Rollei Magic, but non of the Auto 66, as far as I am aware of. The Magic program curve is definately not linear.

 

Have fun with your Auto 66.

 

Siu Fai

 

PS: I also have the Ricohmatic 44 (4x4cm similar model), but unfortunately my sample has a dead meter.