martin_baumgarten

<p>KODACHROME film, if the film is still 'good', meaning either not much older than 10 years kept at room temp, or film that has been cold stored since new (Thus usable filmstock), can still be used and processed but in Black & White. I process it here all the time for customers, mainly movie film in the 8mm and Super 8mm formats. It can still be REVERSAL processed to a decent B&W image, OR also in Sepia tone. Here's link showing some recent examples using a roll of film that expired in 1982 but had been cold stored for most of its life:<br>

<a href="http://s1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb361/MartinBaumgarten/">http://s1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb361/MartinBaumgarten/</a><br>

So, if the film is still good, it can be processed FOUR different ways if desired:<br>

(1). B&W continous tone negative using a good B&W Film Developer such as D-76<br>

(2). B&W high contrast image, using the B&W Reversal process without Reversal or any high contrast B&W Developer.<br>

(3). B&W Reversal (either exposed manually rated at ISO 10 if ISO 25 Daylight film or ISO 40 Type A but using Daylight Conversion Filter{good for sky and cloud details in B&W}....or exposed at the indexed ratings and push processed to get 'normal' image density.<br>

(4). B&W Reversal in Sepia using ReDeveloper Formula T-19. This really makes a very interesting rich brown, tan and yellow look to the images, highlights almost glow....different in some ways compared to Sepia tone processing of conventional B&W Reversal movie films.<br>

So, back to your question on processing it as B&W Negative, if the film is 'good' use a good B&W continous tone B&W Developer and process normally using a roll for testing and then adjust your times and/or exposure index [E.I.] for the density you require. IF the film you have is very old, then I suggest using a developer such as KODAK D-19, and if also exposed many years ago, there will be significant age fogging. You can use an Anti-Fog agent to minimize this, but with such very old films, it does very little. So, use the lowest temperature recommended for B&W Neg processing, thus 65 F, cut your developing time down to somewhere between 2 & 3 minutes, and pre-wash the film first as well for about 5 minutes. After processing, both old or newer KODACHROME films will have to have their Remjet backing removed. This can be done via first soaking the film in a Borax bath, and there are some formulas out there. However, be advised that the remjet doesn't want to come off easily, and will require some serious forceful wiping. IT must be removed while wet....once dry.....you might as well try a paint scrapper to get it off!<br>

Once processed as a Neg, the negatives can be printed or scanned, and adjustments made in a photo editing software program; flipping images to positive, and density & contrast adjustments etc.<br>

Lastly, if you have KODACHROME Slide film and it's still good usable film, it will make nice B&W Reversal or Sepia slides.<br>

Hope this helps shed some light on the issue.<br>

Best regards,<br>

Martin Baumgarten - PPS</p><div></div>

<p>I offer photos from movie frames as part of the Photo Lab work I do. Usually this was done to 35mm internegative on a movie film duplication unit which attaches to a 35mm SLR camera. The other method was using a photo enlarger or similar type units. Testrite Instrumetent Corporation used to make a CineLarger which allowed you to enlarge your movie frames to either 620 or 120 still film so then you had a large negative to work from. <br>

These days, unless you need the internegatives (still nice to work with FILM you know!), I recommend using such a device or your own setup using a Digital Camera of at least 5 megapixel or larger and copy the frame that way. First clean the movie film frames you want to make photos of. Since so many different cameras have builtin zoom and closeup functions, you just have to make up a film holder or cobble up something from a slide duplicator and plenty of light shielding such as a matt black box from cardboard and something to evenly diffuse the light behind the film itself if you don't have a Light Table. If your Digital Camera cannot zoom in tight enough on the tiny frame or close focus enough, you can use a supplementary lens, even a good quality Film Loupe will work, as an auxilary closeup lens [5x to 10x magnification would work, since you're coupling this with your camera's zoom lens optics as well]. <br>

The resulting quality is pretty good, and a lot depends on the original image quality (focus, exposure, grain etc). Decent size prints to at least 4 x 6 are easily possible, and I have even done enlargements up to 8 x 10 and 11 x 14. All from such a super tiny frame of film! Just amazing. Of course......you will have image degradation due to grain and typical super enlargment artifacts.........but it's all relative to subject, need, and the viewing distance of the final photo (if you're grain sniffing....you're going to find grain anywhere; or pixels for you digital types).<br>

I did a job for a gentleman in England that had his wedding shot in B&W back in the 60s. I restored his old photos, and he lamented how he wished he could've afforded color back then. He did have two 50ft reels of Super 8mm Kodachrome that an uncle had shot. I went through the two reels and took the best frame of each series of shots he uncle had taken; from each time the photographer had set everyone up for formal shots. So, after some 40 years since their wedding, he and his wife got to see Color Photos of their wedding day! Is it worth making photos of movie frames? I would say so! They certainly thought so.<br>

Hope this helps.<br>

Martin W. Baumgarten - P.P.S.</p>

<p>Hi Andrew. There are vendors on eBay from a variety of shops that can sell you KODAK D-76. You can only use D-76 if you want your B&W Super 8mm processed as a nice continous tone NEGATIVE image. That would render it fine for transfer to video/digital, or for positive printing (which is now nearly extinct and costly to consider).<br>

I'm cross listing this from your other posting on D-76 so some duplicity here. To get the film out of the Super 8 cartridge: you can do either method:<br>

[1]. REMOVAL from the gate: Not recommended...but that is how KODAK and other labs did it. First rotate the core counterclockwise until you hear it click. The ratchet is now broken, so you can pull the film out from the gate. HOWEVER, you'll need to keep the Pressure Plate depressed and hold the cartridge at a sharp angle so the film can be pulled out without dragging it over the cartridge wall edge, thus scratching it.<br>

[2]. Breaking open the Super 8 Cartridge: You first want to wind all the film into the cartridge by rotating the core clockwise until the film is fully inside. Then in the dark of course, break open the core side of the cartridge by using a bottle cap opener along the edges. Once you get it started at one point, carefully peel back the back of the cartridge and you'll be able to drop out the film on the core. You'll need to fashion up your own core holder so you can transfer the film to a 50ft reel so you can work with it for loading in a film processing tank. Keep a pair of pliers with you, in case the cartridge is stubborn, then you can just grab the lip of the backside and peel it back if you have problems with the bottle opener. Some advocate using a hammer to smash the cartridge....don't do it...you risk damaging your film or hurting yourself in the dark if you're not careful enough. And that's the understatement.<br>

NOTE: Regarding buying the things you need online....that's the new modern way and frankly it's quite easy. I'm old school, but for some things, there's no other way. I have been able to purchase equipment items for my lab here from all over the world via eBay. Get what you can locally if possible, but don't let online or telephone ordering keep you from what you need to do.<br>

So, to correctly REVERSAL process the film, you will need to get the correct chemicals. In a nutshell, the processing outline is as follows:<br />[1]. First Developer (a good high contrast type) KODAK D-19 is fine. The formula calls for addition of a small amount of silver solvent but it will work fine in most cases mixed straight. Time for film on Spiral Reels is 6 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br />[2]. First Wash - a good thorough wash for 2 to 5 minutes, depends on your equipment. Do NOT use Stop Bath.<br />[3]. Bleach - The original formula calls for a Bleach solution made up of Potassium Dichromate, Sulfuric Acid and Water. KODAK's new formula is milder, and you can also mix up to formula a Permaganate Bleach. Time for film on Spiral Reels is 1 - 2 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br />[4]. Second Wash - Normally the formula calls for going directly to the Clearing Bath....but....from many years of experience in manual film processing, I recommend using a wash step here as it will also save wear down on your Clearing Bath. Time for film on Spiral Reels is 1 - 2 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br />[5]. Clearing Bath - to formula using Water and Sodium Sulfite (NOT Sulfide!). LIGHTS can be turned on or film exposed to light after 1 minute in the Clearing Bath. Actually, it can be done after 1 minute in the Bleach, but KODAK recommends waiting until after a minute in the Clearing Bath to avoid the potential of "veiled highlights". Time for film on Spiral Reels is 2 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br />[6]. RE-EXPOSURE STAGE: Unless using chemical flashing for your re-exposure stage, use light. KODAK has always recommended using light over chemical flashing or you can mix to formula a Fogging Developer if you want which basically does chemical flashing at the same time as development. EXPOSE film at all angles and from both sides by moving your reel near light source for 30 seconds per side using a 60 watt to 150 watt light source or equivalent at least 18 inches to 3 feet from film. Be SAFE!<br />[7]. Third Wash/Rinse - While not in the outline, I also find that this is just some added insurance to avoid any contamination in the ReDeveloper. Time for film on Spiral Reels is 1 - 2 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br />[8]. RE-DEVELOPER - Here you have some options depending on what effect or look you'd like to your film. Some have used Dektol Paper Developer and many other types. But KODAK calls for a similar developer such as D-19 for normal processing and density. Time for film on Spiral Reels is 6 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br />NOTE: IF you would like a SEPIA (nice rich brown tone) to your image, you can mix up T-19 which is simply a Water and Sodium Sulfide solution (but must be careful due to strong and dangerous sulfide odor/gas.....smells of rotten eggs, so use LOTS of ventilation). T-19 requires NO Re-Exposure, as it converts the remaining silver halides to brown metallic silver without light (so this works great if using a Rewind Tank or other system where reversal exposure is inconvenient). Time for film on Spiral Reels is 2 - 5 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br />[9]. WASH - this can be a running or changing water wash, or you can also use ACID STOP BATH (which will minimize wear on your Fixer). Time for film on Spiral Reels is 1 - 2 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br />[10]. FIXER - Use a good Rapid Fixer with Hardener. Typically Time for film on Spiral Reels is 5 - 8 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br />[11]. FINAL WASH - Time for film on Spiral Reels is 15 to 30 minutes at 68 F to 70 F NOTE: To shorten wash times, use Hypo Clearing Agent (follow instructional outline for use).<br />[12]. WETTING/DRYING AGENT - Such as KODAK's Photo Flo or similar to aid in even spot free drying of film on your Film Drying Rack (which you'd have to build yourself or loop film emulsion outward on a long strung vinyl clothesline in a dustfree room, such as a bathroom).<br />[13]. FINISHING - To finish film after dry, you will want to properly Leader the film, at least 3 feet Header Leader and 2 feet Trailing Leader. Then clean & lubricate the film using a movie film cleaning solution with lubricant. Once done, rewind the film snuggly and evenly upon a 50ft reel and put a rubberband around the outside of the film. I recommend allowing it to sit this way at least overnight before you view it or transfer it....but you can to that anytime. I recommend waiting a day since the film will have curve areas from where it was looped around the Drying Rack or other hanging methods and being tightly wound will help reshape it. Otherwise, you may notice some slight out-of-focus images each time a 'bump' passes.<br />Chemistry can be purchased from vendors or private sellers on eBay, from major Camera Supply Shops, and from Photographer's Formulary in Montana. Film processing tanks & reels can be found often on eBay, with the russian made LOMO tanks being the easiest to locate. These tanks can do 2 rolls of Super 8mm at a time, but I recommend setting it up for doing just a single roll until you get the hang of it. Hopefully this helps you out. <br />Best regards, Martin W. Baumgarten - P.P.S.</p>

<p>Hi, yes, that Oreston lens is a long time favorite of many former eastern block countries as well as Practica fans. The cheaply made Dimoplan lens always gets a bad rap. The optics are pretty good, if you're willing to baby a working version or repair one that's fallen apart. Anyhow, back to the Oreston, I fully agree...it has this dynamic ability to render a dimension to photography that is often lacking in the biting sharpness of competitor made lenses. It really does a terrific job in portraiture also, as it just seems to render that skin texture so nicely. My first SLR was a Praktica Super TL which came with this lens, and while professionally I've used most everything out there....I still love using a Praktica from time to time, and am always pleased with the Oreston lens results. Ha...imagine someone stating something like that some years from now about how much they loved the results from their 2-10 Megapixel camera such and such; let alone having their image files survive. But that's another topic. Sadly VEB Praktica has gone the way of many other camera companies, but like all old cameras, we can keep them running and cranking out fine images for years. And along the way, new generations of photographers will continue to enjoy the benefits of film. Long life wet process photography!<br>

Best regards, Martin W. Baumgarten - P.P.S.</p>

<p>Hi. The REVERE P-90 is a post-WW2 machine and was the flagship model in 8mm from Revere in Chicago, having a production run from 1946 to 1958. The main advantage of this machine over the long running Revere Model 80 is that is allows film volume up to 400ft. Many projectors of this era had 200ft or 300ft maximum capacity. It also allowed use of either the 500 watt or 750 watt projector lamps due to its lamp cooling capacity. It is still a formidable machine today and with care will last another 50 plus years. Make sure you lubricate all oiling ports generously; since Revere uses long wicks running from the ports to where the oil actually needs to be. Refer to the original maintenance in the instruction manual or via online sources. NOTE: Since the lamp chamber is large enough, these older projectors could be converted over to a modern and cooler running Halogen lamp source.<br>

The base on your projector shows that yours came with the optional carry-case. Should that bakelite base break on you, or if you'd prefer not to use it, you can easily remove it from the bottom of the projector.<br>

Keep the film path clean, and wipe down the film gate and pressure plate with a movie film cleaner with lubricant, or use some pure spray silicone on cotton flannel or Q-Tips to liberally wipe the gate down. This will allow your film to glide right through it nice and smoothly. And remember.....do not forget to make sure your movie films are properly cleaned & lubricated. Labs used to do this after processing, but in the 8mm formats, it's very rare to have that as part of the processing service. I lubricate all film I process for customers and my own of course. <br>

Lastly, do not drag on the clutch lever; move it quickly in and out of position, as you want to minimize wear on the clutch unit. With care, this projector will easily outlive all of us on this forum.<br>

Addenum: Someone above mentioned about opening an old camera which still has film in it. This will only fog (expose) the part of the film between the spools, not all the film. Just like opening the back of a 35mm SLR will only ruin a few frames, not the whole roll. I process film here all the time that varies from 20 to 40 years in age, and it's evident that at times the camera film chamber must've been opened when someone was examing the camera.<br>

Hope this helps.<br>

Best regards, Martin W. Baumgarten - P.P.S.</p>

<p>Hi Andrew. There are vendors on eBay from a variety of shops that can sell you KODAK D-76. You can only use D-76 if you want your B&W Super 8mm processed as a nice continous tone NEGATIVE image. That would render it fine for transfer to video/digital, or for positive printing (which is now nearly extinct and costly to consider). IF on the otherhand you want to correctly REVERSAL process the film, you will need to get the correct chemicals. In a nutshell, the processing outline is as follows:<br>

[1]. First Developer (a good high contrast type) KODAK D-19 is fine. The formula calls for addition of a small amount of silver solvent but it will work fine in most cases mixed straight. Time for film on Spiral Reels is 6 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br>

[2]. First Wash - a good thorough wash for 2 to 5 minutes, depends on your equipment. Do NOT use Stop Bath.<br>

[3]. Bleach - The original formula calls for a Bleach solution made up of Potassium Dichromate, Sulfuric Acid and Water. KODAK's new formula is milder, and you can also mix up to formula a Permaganate Bleach. Time for film on Spiral Reels is 1 - 2 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br>

[4]. Second Wash - Normally the formula calls for going directly to the Clearing Bath....but....from many years of experience in manual film processing, I recommend using a wash step here as it will also save wear down on your Clearing Bath. Time for film on Spiral Reels is 1 - 2 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br>

[5]. Clearing Bath - to formula using Water and Sodium Sulfite (NOT Sulfide!). LIGHTS can be turned on or film exposed to light after 1 minute in the Clearing Bath. Actually, it can be done after 1 minute in the Bleach, but KODAK recommends waiting until after a minute in the Clearing Bath to avoid the potential of "veiled highlights". Time for film on Spiral Reels is 2 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br>

[6]. RE-EXPOSURE STAGE: Unless using chemical flashing for your re-exposure stage, use light. KODAK has always recommended using light over chemical flashing or you can mix to formula a Fogging Developer if you want which basically does chemical flashing at the same time as development. EXPOSE film at all angles and from both sides by moving your reel near light source for 30 seconds per side using a 60 watt to 150 watt light source or equivalent at least 18 inches to 3 feet from film. Be SAFE!<br>

[7]. Third Wash/Rinse - While not in the outline, I also find that this is just some added insurance to avoid any contamination in the ReDeveloper. Time for film on Spiral Reels is 1 - 2 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br>

[8]. RE-DEVELOPER - Here you have some options depending on what effect or look you'd like to your film. Some have used Dektol Paper Developer and many other types. But KODAK calls for a similar developer such as D-19 for normal processing and density. Time for film on Spiral Reels is 6 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br>

NOTE: IF you would like a SEPIA (nice rich brown tone) to your image, you can mix up T-19 which is simply a Water and Sodium Sulfide solution (but must be careful due to strong and dangerous sulfide odor/gas.....smells of rotten eggs, so use LOTS of ventilation). T-19 requires NO Re-Exposure, as it converts the remaining silver halides to brown metallic silver without light (so this works great if using a Rewind Tank or other system where reversal exposure is inconvenient). Time for film on Spiral Reels is 2 - 5 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br>

[9]. WASH - this can be a running or changing water wash, or you can also use ACID STOP BATH (which will minimize wear on your Fixer). Time for film on Spiral Reels is 1 - 2 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br>

[10]. FIXER - Use a good Rapid Fixer with Hardener. Typically Time for film on Spiral Reels is 5 - 8 minutes at 68 F to 70 F<br>

[11]. FINAL WASH - Time for film on Spiral Reels is 15 to 30 minutes at 68 F to 70 F NOTE: To shorten wash times, use Hypo Clearing Agent (follow instructional outline for use).<br>

[12]. WETTING/DRYING AGENT - Such as KODAK's Photo Flo or similar to aid in even spot free drying of film on your Film Drying Rack (which you'd have to build yourself or loop film emulsion outward on a long strung vinyl clothesline in a dustfree room, such as a bathroom).<br>

[13]. FINISHING - To finish film after dry, you will want to properly Leader the film, at least 3 feet Header Leader and 2 feet Trailing Leader. Then clean & lubricate the film using a movie film cleaning solution with lubricant. Once done, rewind the film snuggly and evenly upon a 50ft reel and put a rubberband around the outside of the film. I recommend allowing it to sit this way at least overnight before you view it or transfer it....but you can to that anytime. I recommend waiting a day since the film will have curve areas from where it was looped around the Drying Rack or other hanging methods and being tightly wound will help reshape it. Otherwise, you may notice some slight out-of-focus images each time a 'bump' passes.<br>

Chemistry can be purchased from vendors or private sellers on eBay, from major Camera Supply Shops, and from Photographer's Formulary in Montana. Film processing tanks & reels can be found often on eBay, with the russian made LOMO tanks being the easiest to locate. These tanks can do 2 rolls of Super 8mm at a time, but I recommend setting it up for doing just a single roll until you get the hang of it. Hopefully this helps you out. <br>

Best regards, Martin W. Baumgarten - P.P.S.</p>

<p>Hi, this film is processed by my laboratory for $28 each [EM-26 type films 50ft] plus return shipping costs to wherever. There are only three labs left in the world that I'm aware of, that are still offering processing for old Super 8mm discontinued movie films: myself at Plattsburgh Photographic Services, Rocky Mountain Film Lab in Colorado at <a href="http://www.rockymountainfilm.com/">http://www.rockymountainfilm.com/</a>, and Film Rescue in Saskatchawan, Canada at <a href="http://filmrescue.com/">http://filmrescue.com/</a>. My website is gone thanks to AOL ceasing all website hosting...but I'm available email or telephone (I'll eventually get it back up somewhere once I have time to work on it, but I've been around for many years and most customers can find me). I custom manual process all movie film so can factor in the storage history since it was exposed to try and yield the best results. Most films I process yield images, with even the worst ones having recognizable images but with very poor color. Poorly stored film of this type typically shifts to blue-green or even all green. However, upon transfer to video (if desired) the film can be put into B&W or Sepia, or if there is still some color left, it can sometimes be corrected to a tolerable viewing level. As with all old film types at all three of these labs, turnaround time can be lengthy; typically 2 to 6 months based on inhouse workloads. Hope this clarifies things. Best regards, Martin W. Baumgarten</p>