austinphoto

<p>Do what they ask. How hard can it be to take a photo that they want. The bride and groom are the ones that hired you, but the bridal party are your future customers.</p>

<p>To Nadine's family and PN community: We lost a great treasure. </p>

<p>My website has been flash website, but flash seems to be no longer supported by many portable items. I would like to change it to be able to show on all devices. I like the flash and would like to keep the design and layout as well as all functionality the same.<br>

Is there an easy way to do this?<br>

<a href="http://www.greatlab.com">www.greatlab.com</a></p>

<p>The D70 is a very special camera. While I had been using it for years, I have upgraded all the way to D700, I have always used my D70 as 2nd and backup camera. It is the only camera that I know of that will flash synch at all speeds. I can get it to flash Synch upto 1/8000th of a second, which is perfect for outdoor fill flash. I can use very large lens openings and use fill flash outdoors with fast shutter speeds, something that no other camera can do. My outdoor fill flash photos look spectacular. Try that with the latest and most modern camera. It comes nowhere near the D70. Love that camera, although I don't use it as much.</p>

<p>Many years ago every photo shop in the US used to have a sign that read "We use Kodak Paper for a good look", which meant that all paper and chemicals and films inside that store were probably Kodak brand. There were lots of photo stores everywhere, so, Kodak was doing quite well. They took care of their dealers, who took care of their customers and the company had nowhere to go but up. <br>

Somewhere in the 80's they decided to change their business model and break into 2 parts, consumer and professional division. I fell into the consumer division for some reason. When I needed Kodak products that fell into the professional division, I couldn't purchase them. The company was now working against me. Why should I send my customers to another store when they were quite happy to do business with me for many years. I tried and tried, but Kodak would not budge and refused to sell me products I needed. What else could I do? I told them I was going Green and switched all my supplies, paper, chemicals, cameras to Fuji, who treated me extremely well and got me what I needed. Not only that, they were cheaper than Kodak.<br>

Over they years, many many other stores got rid of their "We use Kodak" signs and switched to Fuji, Agfa, Konica. Imagine this: they had an almost complete lock on the US market and just pissed it away with their attitude, high prices, and lousy business practices to other manufacturers. Thousands of stores, quit buying from Kodak and the company went down hill from there. At least in the photo business.<br>

Way to go Kodak! You had it all and just gave it away. Us old time dealers used to love Kodak and would have stayed with it, but corprate Kodak had to have its way. You win (loose), good riddence.</p>

<p>Always check! A videographer here on Long Island was photographing the bride and groom coming out of the hall and backed up into the street, got hit by a car and killed. True story, about 2 years ago. Now I myself am a klutz. One time I wash shooting a large group in an empty room and as I was backing up to get the entire room, one of the wait staff put something on the floor in my way and I fell backwards right through a wall. Cheaply made. Anyway, always look out.</p>

<p>Thanks for the reply Andrew. I understand that they will not be the same, but to be that much off is too crazy. I think LR is actually making the photos when they load into Develope module way to bright. I thought maybe a preset was too much, but I can't figure out how to bring it down to normal levels. It looks good in Library, but when I go into Develope module to do work, it pops up way to bright. How do I change the default preset, which I never really set at all.<br>

Thanks,<br>

Abe</p>

<p>When I import nef photos, which look fine on the screen of the camera and the histogram looks good on the camera, it opens up in Lightroom develope module very bright and very burnt out. I have to do a lot of work to tone it down. It doesn't sound normal. Does lightroom all of the sudden bump up the exposure into unacceptable levels? Is there a preset that is taking over and doing it? Or, am I doing something wrong! Exposure on the camera is beautiful. Image comes on when I pick the thumbnail on the screen, and in about a second or two after it loads to lightroom and the editing tools become available, all of the sudden, the photo becomes way to bright and highlights, which were fine in camera, in thumbnails are too burnt out and the lightroom histogram is all the way to the right.<br>

I hope there is a solution to this. Any help, as ususal is greatly appreciated.<br>

Abe</p>

<p>Any lens can be used at a wedding, providing you are trying to get any effect and a great photo that will come out of it's use. The photo of the church above is great and a proper use of a fisheye. I'm sure there are many more that can be done with that lens.</p>

<p>Your story sounded a bit one sided and very hard to imagine as correct or true. You really sounded like a groomzilla, however after seeing the samples, I truly beleive everything you said. It didn't sound real! The photos look worse than the ones taken with my casio snap happy! I don't know where or how you got this so called photographer, but in court you should be able to get all your money back and hopefully more for all your trouble. Any photographer who doesn't take critisism well and is too emotional to deliver good quality work after taking your money, doesn't belong in business. Good luck to you and your wife.</p>

<p>You can use the Nikon lens on your cannon with an adapter. Very simple. It will be manual, but will work on any Canon.</p>

<p>I used to keep my spare equipment by the band or dj. A couple of years ago on the job, there was a guy dressed up in a suit talking on a cell phone by the dj. He looked like a guest. When the video photographer walked away from his camera for a minute, he moved closer and stole it. I heared a scream from the video guy, who was on the other side of the room. He started chasing him, but the guy ran down the stairs and there was a car waiting for him. An $8,000 camera, stolen and the entire wedding up to that point, gone! After that, I would always keep the spare in my trunk, locked. I think my chances are better that way. If it's stolen, at least I will still have the wedding in my hands. These guys work at weddings and have their thefts carefully plannned. I'd rather take my chances this way. So far I've been lucky. No Problems.</p>

<p>Don't buy anymore sandisk products and maybe this bs will stop. What's with the rebate, but a scam to get you to buy and not pay up? It costs money to get paper work for rebate, hire a company to manage the rebate, get people to fill out, send, keep records, etc. Isn't is just easier to just drop the price and eliminate the extra work? </p>

<p>You really don't need to shoot seporate shots for ids. The company that makes your id cards should be able to take your school photo file and make id cards from that. You will need to get your info correctly to match the photo to the proper person. Ask the company that will make your id. Your lab that prints the packages should be able to do so. They have the exact information you need to pull it off properly. Try Academy Productions. I have been using them and have been very happy with the results. Good luck!</p>

<p>Get a new background!</p>

<p>Joe: Here is the basic and quick and easy way to do it. I've done it by the thousands very quickly for my school photos.<br>

1 select-color range-it will open up a small black and white high contrast window.<br>

2.click on the green area, either in the photo or in the black and white window.<br>

3. push the slider in the black and white window to get a high contrast photo of the background white and the people black. With practice, you will learn to get this perfect. Pay attention to what the slider does and soon you will be an expert at it.<br>

4. the green will be selected, so you need to inverse the selection (select, inverse) or shift- trl- I.<br>

5. copy<br>

6. go into the background photo<br>

7 paste<br>

8 transform to size properly and you have the people on the new backgroun.<br>

I have written an action to do the above steps and with one click, I was able to move the people to the new background and all I had to do was transform to size and move the people where I wanted them on the background. It gets better as you do more and it gets faster. Practice will improve your technique so that you can do as like a master.<br>

Goood luck!<br>

Abe</p>

<p>Great cost cutting ideas! I got the best one! Elope, save everyone money. Better than that , don't get married and save a fortune. I noticed that they did not include the clergy in their savings ideas. To each, his own!</p>

<p>This scanner was made for windows 98 and earlier. Not for xp. When I switched to xp I had to get rid of it. I think you are out of luck here.</p>

<p>The battery is fine. I use a booster and both batteries are fully charged. I will reload firmware again. It happens with other lenses.</p>

<p>I have recently updated the firmware of my D700 to 1.1. It was perfectly fine before this. Now, it just locks up and will not take a photo every so often. I shut the camera off and shoot. It works fine after shut down. It happens sporadically. I'm just afraid it will happen at the wrong time and I will loose an important shot. Anyone familiar with this? Will I be able to download the original firmware 1.0? Is it available?<br>

Any help would be greatly appreciated.</p>

<p>If I am working for a studio, I will only hand out the studio's business card. It is their job I am on, and I am not there to compete with them. They pay me to shoot the job, but most of all, I am there representing them, not me. That's the only ethical thing to do. Know who you are, who you represent, and do the best job according to the situation. That's professional! Under such circumstances, the studio trusts me and gives me many more jobs. I work for them, not against them.</p>

<p>Does anyone know the contact configuration of the new digital and the old Nikon Flashes? I have an old sb 23 that I would like to be able to use on a digital camera. I really would like the ttl feature to work, but think that the contacts have been changed. Can someone explain what the contacts on the flash are for, asides from the main hot shoe. One of those other contacts must be for ttl. If my sb800 works ttl on my film camera, what is the difference between the new flashes and the old flashes. Having it work ttl would be extremely useful for me, as I am using it in a close up situation for macro work.</p>

<p>For weddings, the 24-70 2.8 is the best lens there is.   It is my main lens and produces 90 percent of my work.  There is no better nor more useful lens for wedding or shooting people.<br>

 </p>

Hi Bunny: Very Simple to do, but very important to do things right. Lighting has to be critical and flat. Put the image into photoshop, click on select, click on color range, click on the green (either in the actual photo or in the B&W image inside the box that opens), move the slider till your animal is black and the green is white, clik to process and your animal will be selecgted. If you need to do more accurate selection, use the magic wand, but hold the shift down to add the selection and not to clear the old one out. If you make a mistake, just go to edit, step backwards and continue. Once you have your animal selected, click select, inverse to select the animal, not the background, edit, copy, go to new background image and paste. You may have to resize to make it fit the way you want. Not very hard, but to do it right, takes a lot of practice and once you get it going, it moves very fast. I've done it on my school photos by the thousands. Good luck!

I had similar problem with my setup. But if the camera fired and did not flash, it most likely will be a bad cord, assuming everything else was fine. We went nuts trying to solve the problem, I took the flash to Nikon, came back ok with no problems. It happened again and I went back to nikon with the problem still showing. They put on another flash and it was still eratic. They replaced the cable and everything was fine. The SC29 is the problem. Try an SC17. Good luck!