pok_hon_wally_yu

Seriously, why do you want to spend your money on a lens? If you cannot answer it convincingly, I would suggest you to spend those 300 dollars on a tripod, film, and/or a flash instead. Have your shots been limited by your 50mm f1.8 lens?

 

My general advice: Don't spend money on photo gear just because you have the money...

 

Price at B&H for the two lenses are as follows:

28 f2.8: $160

28-105mm f3.5-4.5 II: $230

If wide angle is what you are looking for, you may also consider the 24mm f2.8. It's $290 is still below your $300 budget.

 

I shoot a lot of landscape and cityscape and I like my 28mm f2.8: it's light and very sharp. CA and SA are minimal. It does not have USM but focusing is still very fast and I won't say the focusing mechanism noisy at all. In addition, the 28mm lens shares the same filter size with your 50mm len, in case you have a polarizer or some other filter. (The zoom has a 58mm filter size).

The third-party flashes I mentioned (Vivitar, Sunpak, Metz, Quantum) have sensors on the flash to measure flash exposure. You tell the flash the aperture and ISO, the flash will provide enough flash exposure for the subject. That's why we call "auto" flash exposure. Certainly all these flashes can be fired in full manual mode.

 

Your Canon 580EX does not have an external sensor for auto exposure. That's why I can only use in manual mode when using with non-Canon cameras.

 

Since Vivitar, Metz 45, and Quantum can be powered by high-voltage source, you may want to check with Jackrabbit for flash compatibility.

Hold it... I don't think 645 super has flash-TTL at all. The suggestions above will work as long as you are fine with auto settings.

 

Your 580EX will only work in manual mode when using with your 645 Super. Basically, any auto flash will work fine. If you don't want to spend a lot of money but still get good results, Vivitar 285HV or Sunpak 383 will be fine. I use the Vivitar mainly for fill flash. It's very easy to use and auto exposure is very accurate.

 

If you want to spend some big money, you may try something like a Quantum Q-flash or Metz 45/60 series. Quantum Q flash only works with their turbo battery. Fortunately, you can also get a cable to connect the battery to your 580Ex flash.

They go in 1/3 steps. Therefore, if you are using 160 film, you should set it to the dot before 200. The scale reads like this:

 

[50] 64 80 [100] 125 160 [200] 250 320 [400] 500 640 [800] 100 1250 [1600] etc.

If you stack an adapter, filter and lens hood on a 124G, the hood will probably block the lower portion of the viewing lens.

As long as you get 12 (120) or 24 (220) frames with no overlapping, you should be fine.

Hassy 500 series are leaf shutter based cameras while the Kiev 88 cameras are focal plane shutter based. Even if you could mount the Kiev lenses onto a Hassy 500, you will have trouble firing the camera since the Kiev lenses do not have shutters.

Did you get the PB-E2 or th E1 booster? In either case, $850 is still a very good deal for a 1v. I would suggest a test drive to see if the camera functions properly. If so, you may not need a CLA immediately. The camera is built like a tank. If the previous owner(s) handled the camera properly, the camera will still have a lot of millage to go.

Does your camera recognize the flash at Av mode?

What format? 645, 6x6, 6x7, or 6x9?

45CL-1 has five auto settings, while 45CL-4 has six auto settings.

Call Canon USA and they will direct you to their parts department. The caps are actually quite cheap and you can order several of them and the S&H charge will still be more than the parts.

Different people will have different experiences on how safe/unsafe the voltage is. If you want to be on the safe side, get a Wein Safe Sync adaptor.

If you are using the older non-USM version, that's kinda normal. Also, if you are not shooting macro, you may get faster focusing by limiting the focusing range.

1. A standard 52mm lens cap will work.

 

2. I am still waiting for an answer. I asked the same question before and didn't get the answer...

 

3. So far I do not have any problem with 220. In fact, you get 32 shots with a 220 roll.

The thicker/folded contacts are negative.

The time is for Tri-X.

and for Tri-X (new version), I have done that only on 35mm... You might try D-76 for 11 minutes or D-76 1+1 for 16 minutes @68F.

Ilford Delta 3200 has a true speed of about 800 but it is designed for pushing up to 12500. At 3200, I usually develop in D-76 for 13 minutes (instead of 10.5 minutes recommended by Ilford) @ 68F.

Definitely a much bigger "WOW" with MF slide projecting!!!!

 

However, there are two basic issues you need to face with MF projection:

 

1) Getting a MF projector: New projectors can be very expensive. You may want to hunt for used projector. I got mine for about 400 dollars and it works very well. If you see some vintage MF projectors, make sure you can get a replacement bulb since some old light bulbs for projectors are not available anymore.

 

2) Slide Mounting: You need to do the slide mounting yourself. Fortunately, it can be done without any specific machine. All you need are a clean working environment, a pair of clean hands, and a pair of scissors.

Seems like leaf shutter is your major concern for the choice. If so, Bronica and Hasselblad are your first choices. Practice will make perfect for manual focus. It's very often faster than AF.

http://www.photozone.de/bindex2.html

If lens quality is your main concern, I would suggest neither one of them. Search the archive for lens recommendation.

Too many factors can contribute the results you get:

 

- Improper procedures: I cannot even tell from the picture if the map is parallel to the film plane. Also, is the map itself flat at all? Do not be defensive and just say I KNEW it's flat and properly setup by visual inspection...

 

- Lighting: the scene is simply too contrasty for a lens test. The bright background can greatly affect the meter reading. If your test target is the map, fill the frame with the map if you can. In addition, slides like this can be tricky to scan.

 

- Scanning: Scanner IS NOT a "mega"-maginifer as some claimed. Scanner quality and your scanning workflow can make things better or worse. Try evaluating your slides by viewing it through a loupe and/or projecting it onto a screen by a slide projector.

 

- The Cropping: Isn't the cropping a bit too small?

 

With all these uncertainties in the setup, the test cannot be conclusion espeically at large aperture since the DOF is extremely swallow.

The sync speed of EOS 3 is 1/200s. However, the shutter will NOT fire if the shutter speed is faster than 1/200. Instead, you will see is the shutter speed in the viewfinder blinks.

 

The 550EX is capable of high-speed sync with shutter speed up to 1/8000s. However, it's needed to be turned on manually.

 

Back to Sandra's question: The P mode will select a set of shutter speed and aperture for you. Take a close look of what the camera had selected for you. This setting will determine your background/ambient exposure. The aperture selection will be limited by the maximum aperture of your lens. The shutter speed will be between 1/60 (if my memory serves correctly...) and 1/200 (X) when an EX flash is used. As I said earlier, if 1/60s @ f(max of your lens) is still 4-5 stops or more underexposed for the background, your background will be completely dark. Adding insult to injury, if your flash does not fire or you are not waiting for the flash to charge, your foreground will be completely dark also.