pok_hon_wally_yu

The 200+ item is the whole grip. I believe Michel is referring to the compartment that holds 6 AA batteries. If you are in US, the simpliest way is to call Pentax and/or Pentax's authorized repairing shops for parts purchase.

If that's a contact cleaning problem, a fiber glass cleaning pen will work for you.

It does not change much during the past 8 years. I used EOS 3 and HIE for quite some time. In my case, the fogging is only in the sprocket hole area. I would say 95 percent (or more) of the frame area is usable. However, if you need to print more than the whole frame (e.g. using a filed film holder), the fogging can be very annoying.

 

The most annoying part is probably not the IR LED, but the little hole on the pressure plate. Since HIE has no anti-halation layer, the hole can be shown on the film when the light is right (or wrong).

The eyecup is user-changebale. The small eyecup can be unscrewed from the camera easily by hand. If you have the large eyecup, use a coin to unscrew it.

The D on the LCD panel means "imprinting exposure data information."

I read the Hartblei page and it says the power mode switch (110V/220V) is built-in. Why do you still need a power converter?

Sounds interesting! Do you get it directly from Hartblei? Do let us know after you have a test-run.

I assume you are using a steel reel. For either the "Kalt" or the "Hewes" design, make sure you align the film properly. If you remove the paper back by cutting the film, it will be easier to tuck in the film from the uncut side. The position of insertion is critical because of the bigger size of 120 film. When you insert the film, use your fingers to feel if the film is at the right place before reeling the film in. In that regard, the "Hewes" design is much easier since you can press the tongue down with one hand while moving the film with another hand. As everybody suggests, practice makes perfect.

For mail-order developing, A&I 35mm/120 mailers are available at B&H or direct order at A&I.

 

Gepe Anti-Newton glass mount are quite easy to use. It's available at B&H also.

If you shoot a lot with your tripod, an electronic cable release will be neccessary.

It won't work since the Arsat 30mm lens you have does not have a shutter, while your ETR is a leaf-shutter based camera.

I also use Clearfile. It is compatible with standard 3-ring binders. Clearfile also has archival 3-ring binders that protect the sleeves from dust.

 

One small tip: Cut the corners of the strips (certainly be careful not to cut through the image area). That helps the strips getting in and out of the sleeves.

The difference is actually very obvious. You will be stunned when you see your MF slides projected.

Since you have set the ISO on your camera as 200 and the flash communicates to the camera for expsoure calculation, we are talking about only one ISO setting, i.e. 200 in your case.

What makes you feel you need a "better" lens than the EF 20mm f2.8? In particular, what makes you feel bad about this lens? To me, it's very wide and it's not easy to focus manually. Distortion and flare control are okay. I use the Canon matching hood and flaring is under well control. Other than that I like the lens a lot after several years of constant use.

 

I never used the Sigma 20mm f1.8. The specs seems attractive (closest focus distance @ 20cm; f1.8). The only thing I don't like is the 82mm filter size: those filters are very expensive. (Canon uses 72mm filter.)

 

If you want to go even wider for a prime lens, Tokina makes a 17mm f3.5 lens, but I have no experience on this.

 

Other than the Sigma, your only choices of 20mm lens will be mainly zoom lenses: Canon EF 20-35mm f3.5-4.5; EF 16-35mm f2.8; EF 17-40mm f4; and zoom lenses from Sigma, Tamron, and Tokina.

You may consider Informal Classes offered by Texas Union of UT Austin.

It depends on how much power you need. For shoe-mount flash, Vivitar 283/285HV and Sunpak 383 will give you a lot of power with very good price. For more power and better construction, Metz 45, Metz 60, and Quantum T2/T4d will work fine yet they are bigger and heavier, especially Metz 60 and Quantum since they have to use with an external power pack. It's the trade off among size, power, and price.

Search the archive for more details...

 

To make it simple, it's about cost and size. A 100% pentaprism is considerably bigger than what you have in your EOS 300. Certainly it's more expansive. Compactness is one selling point of EOS 300 and something needs sacrifice in the design.

Oops...The cameras are certainly not the same, but they share the same lens mount.

Yes.

As mentioned above, the sync speed is a bit on the slow side. Still 1/60 sync with a 645 camera is still very usable (The Pentax 67 only sync at 1/30, and the camera is much heavier...). I use the camera on a flash bracket with a Quantum T2 and I don't have any handshaking problem. The camera itself is very ergonomic and is designed to be handheld like a big 35mm camera. It does have flash TTL metering. Although it's kinda primitive, it works when you need it. For fill flash, you may want to use an auto flash for more control (I use Vivitar 285HV). The lenses are also superb. I use a 45-55-75-200 combo and they serve very well. In addition, with an P6-Pentax645 adapter, you can also use P6-mounted lenses by Carl Zeiss Jena and Kiev. One of the best buys is the Kiev Arsat 30mm fisheye. It's 6x6 fisheye lens but still look very "fisheye" when using on a 645 camera.

 

One thing I really like about the body is the two tripod sockets (one on the bottom, one on the left). You don't need to flip the tripod head for vertical shots.

 

The price is very good for buyers currently. You shouldn't have any problem getting a camera and a 75mm lens for less than 500. Try KEH or ebay.

 

Several things you may need to know: The motorized film advance is kinda loud (somehow similar to my EOS 3). Also, do not use Lithium or rechargeable batteries on the camera (It's okay for N and NII but not the original 645). However, a good set of alkaline AA batteries can last for more than 100 rolls of 120.

If I remember correctly, Elan II use the RS-60E3 remote. The following page make help you locate a proper cable for a DIY remote. The plug is a 2.5mm audio head, which is similar to those on the cellphone handfree devices.

 

http://www.camerahacker.com/RS60-E3_pin-out/pin-out.html

since your 10D uses the N-3 type remote control, you can use the Canon ET-1000N3 extension cord. It's about 75 dollars.

What's your main subject with the macro lens? (especially if the noise of the lens bothers you so much). I have the non-USM 100. It's not as quiet as the USM one. However, I almost never shoot macro with AF...

 

BTW, they are very different lenses. The 50 only goes to half size unless you are using the life-size converter. The 100 does go to life size without accessory. The 50 has a very shot working distance and it works okay with still macro when things are within your control. The 100 will give you a more comfortable shooting distance.

Although 95% of your photography are available light, the 5% with flash will point you to EOS 3 because of the more advannced flash E-TTL system. If you have a EX series flash, EOS 3 will certainly make sense. In addition, I believe EOS3 has better weather seal, though it doesn't mean much unless you are using those weather sealed L lenses also. Many people say 1N has better built and 3 is plasticky, yet I find the 3 is made of very good and tough plastic.

 

If you use autofocus a lot, the 45-pt focusing system in EOS 3 makes focus tracking very fast and accurate when doing motion photography. Some do complain the reliability of eye-control focus of EOS3, it works for me when I wear contact lenses. Remember, you can always turn it off if you don't use it.

 

Some suggests EOS 5. However, the control-dial breakage issue has been discussed extensively here. In addition, if you can find and afford a used 1N, why consider a 5 at all?

 

BTW, how do you manage to break 2 shutters in 2 years?