hubert_seremak

<p>You might like this page maybe:</p>

<p>http://www.rolleiclub.com/cameras/tlr/info/index.shtml</p>

<p>Do not bother checking quality of images from C, D, E or F versions for 100 times in google :) Unless this is Planar or Xenotar ALL of them will be awesome, of course, given that you are good photograher :)))</p>

<p>good luck!</p>

<p>8800F - perfect buy for the money. I own one and this is the best buy I made in last few years. Stunning scan quality, I tell you.</p>

<p>Scanner is simply great. I used some scanners before, I tried Agfa and Epson, and well - for the price of 8800F you get very, I mean it, very good results. I am not using attached Silverfast software, just simple Canon software. You can check some photos of mine here:</p>

<p>http://www.flickr.com/photos/26921506@N05/</p>

<p><img src=" alt="" /></p>

<p>Almost no photo has any PS added, except for adjusting some, very little amount of contrast (but still I do it very seldom). 95 % of them was scanned with 8800F , most of them with only 25 or 30 % possible size (scanned with 100 % possible size could result in HUGE file size, so for internet and web I scan smaller size). The true quality could be seen when you enlarge scanned immage - it shines - please mind, that flickr is adjusting photo size (so you can;t see true quality there) - I would go for this scanner again without any hesitation.</p>

<p>cheers!</p>

<p><img src="http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb72/leihoa/palackulturymaszyna2.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>I tried to post a picture here but no idea how to do it properly, so I ll skip this step, sorry. FP4 is strange, trix is more contrasty or I made something wrong. Here I had increase contrast (just by little, very little) as it was pretty "flat", I must say.</p>

<p>what about Perceptol, does it have some good storage possibility like Microphen, and it could be used 10 x 10 rolls as well or no?</p>

<p>(might be a double post as something vanished here when tried to send to the forum, hmm, ok I try again, sorry if doubled)</p>

<p>thans for the answers. I must admit, I have taken the method of using 1 litre of stock mirophen from Lex's advices and it is very good method:)</p>

<p>One more: Can I use this 1 litre 10 times with 10 or 20 rolls? Or is it going to be too weak after -teenth use? (asking because I can put 2 rolls of 120 film inside this Jobo tank of mine..)</p>

<p>Hi<br>

This is strange question, but hope you have some experience like that.</p>

<p>I shoot trix 400 films most of the time and use Microphen developer. I have one litre of microphen that I use 10 times, stock, after 10th use I make new soup. It is used ONLY with tri-x films. It served very well, developing this way.</p>

<p>Now I have this 1 litre microphen used 6 (six) times and I have taken some photos on FP4 film. What should I do? Can I develop it in this developer I used for trix films before, for 6 times? Or it ruins FP4, because of different chemicals on the surface of FP4 or what, they will somehow react in bad way?</p>

<p>If you say I can run with this lil used microphen with FP4 - fine, but what time then? I exposed for EI 100, not 125. Digitaltruth says 8 minutes for 125 ISO. Should I shorten the time a little or is this '24 ISO negligible difference? But then, microphen is "used" a little, so what now?</p>

<p>I am asking because I have many more trix films in my fridge and only 2-3 FP4 more, so I don't want to make whole new chemistry for 2-3 FP4s. If it is not necessary. And also - I made some important pictures on this FP4 so wasting it is not recommended at all:)</p>

<p>thx in adv.</p>

Patrick - you feel better writing 3 answers in which thhere is no "answer"? Does it make you feel better? I WILL cope with it somehow, do not worry, but please bear in mind, this thread might be red by people searching for same advice (as truly, this forum is full of trixx @ 3200 or trix@6400 "how to" but not for regular 400 ISO). And no, do not worry, I have experience with more films and developers, anyway wanted to know answer to the simpliest question I could ask. So, dont be a kid, as I said: "with all the repsect" - please reply to the question, instead of giving "good uncle's" advice. I am not going to make wars here, tell me about your experience, how does it look like, does it come flat or rich in shadows etc etc. - do not tell me how to make a test, I know it already.

 

thanks

 

P.S. patrick - I will not reply to another bitter post, reply to the subject or don't say nothing.

 

cheers.

My question was: what is YOUR experience with trix @ 400. If you did not develop it at this speed and have no clue - please, with all the respect, stop writing smart stories. is there anybody who developed trix with 400 iso exposure? anyone? (must be, eh?) :)

 

I'll go after Lex advice, it is just strange to look at 10 pages of forums and not to see dev. time for nominal trix speed, everyone's trying to do it different way...

 

ok, thanks, rgds.

Hi

 

Starting this thread as I am digging through the forums, 10 pages and I am dumb or blind, but can not find

anything like an answer to the simplest question: What time should I use for trix film, exposed @ 400 ISO, with

Microphen? (1:1 soup).

 

I am asking as everybody here asked 10 times about pushing or pulling, exposed for 800, 3200, some even 6400 or

more - but no 400 ISO found here.

 

I went to the park with a beautiful girl, I shot some photos, exposed Trix for 400 ISo, now I am confussed. I

have never tried trix before so I do not want to ruin this (I used HP5 film only as for now). The only developer

I used for many months is Microphen and I would like to stick to it.

 

I consulted Lex via email, he said something between 9 and 10 minutes should be ok (depends on contrast and

predominant light, what I understand).

 

Light was hmmmm, not that very heavy, some shadow, a little clouded sky, most photos won't have contrasty

background as I shot mostly close-ups (rollieflex+rolleinar combo).

 

If you could tell me about your experience with developing Trix exposed for plain 400 ISo - I would be greatful.

 

thx in adv.

 

HS.

thanks guys. Too much saturation is not needed, I do not like "consumer" line films too much, it is ok with somewhat less contrast. 400H seems very nice and have read good opinion on these. Will try to buy it tomorrow.

hi there

 

I am going to Prague, Czech Republic, for few days in September (07-15th of Sept., or so), and I need

recommendation on good Fuji 400 ISO film. I ask about it because I shoot color negative film maybe few times in

few years - very rarely - I do only B&W photography, process on my own etc. I need to buy some 5 rolls just to

try it (with B&W in my bag as well:) )What I need is:

 

-Fuji film, 400 ISO, negative (no slide). Fuji because close to my home there is a lab that processes Fuji very

nice (as I heard) and they do it way cheaper then other film brands (they are Fuji licensed lab). 400 ISO - well,

it is going to be September, days are shorter, you know, I prefer to have somewhat faster film than 50 ISO.

 

- a film that can give me some "autumn" look in the photos or overall decent film for street photography in

autumn. Does not have to be "no-grain" film, I like a little grain, it is ok, and I am not an avid fan of 50 ISO

film where it is top sharp (I shoot HP5 and trix400 in B&W so you might know what I mean). Film does not have to

be very contrasty but it might be. I plan to shoot architecture, streets etc. (not portraits, very close

close-ups etc)

 

-120 type film. I use Rolleiflex 3.5E camera, so no 35 mm film (I suppose all types come in both formats anyway?)

 

-it has to be some easy to get film, not the one you have to look for in 10 places. I know this is going probably

limit me to some 2-3 names, but well, I have only 1 day to buy it before I leave from here I am now (I know

pretty decent shop where they have more film but I doubt they would have special purpose 10 types of film etc)

 

- and one more: what I read in these forums, is that I shoot 400 ISO at 320 or even @ 200. Well, I am not

experienced with pulling films before, not to mention color films (that I shoot once in 2 years or so). What is

it all about, can't I shoot @400? I do B&W for years and I like exposing normal way, I meter exposure correctly

with Lunastar F meter (handheld of course), I develop for regular ISO setting - and it is all very good for my

taste. Is it something different with color film?

 

I've read here about Fuji NPH , in these forums, is it still produced? Or any other you could recommend? Thanks

for your opinions on this.

 

rgds

 

H.S.

i have a small tiffen filter facts booklet - added to the filter box itself, small , about few pages - it says

25A needs 3 stops (yet the very filter has "25" description on the edge, not 25A - I do not know what is the

difference, dont't care too much). I will use 3 stops more for this filter, ok.

hi there

 

I have hust bought tiffen 25 A filter for my rollei (using 49 mm adapter, as it is way cheaper than genuine

rollei filters) - my question:

 

Tiffen says increase light 3 stops or so. When I put it against my lighmeter (pretty good gossen lightmeter, very

reliable and acurate) it shows only 1 stop increase.

 

I assume the lightmeter measures it wrong way? It shows also 1 stop increase on yellow filter as well - what is

usually correct, and red what I have red, need 3-5 stops increase, here 3 stops as indicated in small booklet?

 

I use it for film of course, B&W.

 

anyone had experience with Tiffen 25A red filter and regular films like trix or hp5?

anything that gives good esxposures :)) I use Gossen Lunastar F, it is 30 degrees reflective measuring + incident if needed. Some say it is too wide - well, it is good enough for me, very reliable, I do not need 1 degree spot meter t be honest. You can use old selenium meters but they are not reliable in very dark or very light or contrasty situations. People here will advise you to buy expensive Seconis 7xx for huge money - well, do you need one? I would say - no. Buy some decent lightmerter for 100 $ maximum off ebay, minolta III are decent ones, they are cheap on ebay as newer models are much more sought after. (having some minor upgrades as for me).

i can give you adress to CLA service in Poland, UE - they make all vintage cameras, new ones etc, maximum they charged my friends (i dont use their service as I have one good 2 streets further so I save shipping cost) was 250-300 dollars - but this is MAXIMUM, for completely devasteted vintage camera that has to be almost completetly rebuil, new shutter etc. Usualy it takes 200 $ or less for small inspection, cleaning, lubricating. They take 15 $ for initial expertise then you make a deal about final price, but they are very very professional and especially about international customers, as they offer service on international ebay.

I use gossen lunastar F, it is 30 degress metering I think, so well, I dont care. It is good enough for me proving excelent exposures most of the time and the bad ones - it is my fault, I am sure :)

Q.G - sure, you rare right, but this is truism, isn't it? Noone can compete with tripod if it comes to stability, sure thing. But the point is, at least my point, that TLR handheld will give better results at low speeds than regular SLR with the same speed - the slower speed the more TLR shines compares to SLR. One friend of mine can shoot with TLR a 1 second photo handheld and you would have problem to say it was handheld or tripod - unfortunately I am not that good heheh, I am ok with 1/15, but of course prefer 1/60 and more. Anyway, would you notice ANY difference between tripod and no-tripid with speeds like 1/250 or 1/500? Don't think so , and even if, difference would be negligible.

 

so, tripod vs handhels - tripod is always better

TLR handheld and SLR handheld - TLR is the winner, escpecially @ slower times.

read these forum, after 1 hour you should be able to develop B&W film youself. Buy chemicals, think twice, do it :) do not, I repeat, do not resign after 1st or 5th film, they will be not as great as you expected. After some films you will develop your technique, you will learn more with every roll.

 

My advice:

 

stick to 1 film type and one developer product for like 50 rolls. I started with HP5 + ID -11 developer, now still HP5 film but trying with Microphen. Develop some rolls one method (same agitation, same time for development) , after few rolls try different agitation etc.

 

and you will LOVE it, I mean it, love it. Developing own film is magic. You will never give B&W film to the Lab ever, I promise :)

 

but then, there is scanning afterwards, or printing, or printing and scanning, many questions before you..

Q.G. de Bakker - a solution to handling and shaky photos with TLR is good strap - I use old Revue camera strap,

it is pretty wide and keeps camera almost stoned in my hands. You put the strap over your neck, look down,

compose, press, bang, there is the photo. Very easy. No need to worry about shaky hands as long as you do not try

to compose for 5 minutes :)

"But be aware that virtually all medium format TLR cameras deliver a square negative."

 

This is why I shoot with Rolleis, it is a plus for me, big plus, not a minus:)) - best format ever. Seems so natural, instead of 6x4,5 or 6x9 - at least for me 6x6 is perfect. Easier to compose for me as well.

 

give Rolleiflex (or even Rolleicord) a try, they are wonderful cameras. Easy to learn, tack sharp if stopped down to f/8 or f/11 (planars and Xenotars work nice even at f/4 but I love f/8 on these cameras)

 

a small problem you might encounter is gentle release of shutter button. I have problem with this an many photos come out not sharp, yet plain release cable works great. Some older types do not have cable socket, one of my old Rolleiflex Automat from 1935-1945 series hasn't one, yet this one has very soft release.

thx Robert, I ll look into this , but anyone else used this service (or yourself, personally)?

 

I am reading now about Canon 8800, brand new with 1 year warranty in Poland for 250 $, I do not know , well... Gonna read more.

 

What about Epson 3200, anyone? Or opinion on Canon 8800? They seem to scan 6x6 negs as well as I read?

hi,

 

 

sorry if it sounds idiotic, but please listen:) Some story first. Ok, I shoot MF mainly, with one good ol'

Rolleiflex, came back to do it again after 2,5 years break. I developed like 10-12 films, I brought back my old

Agfa Duoscan T1200 scanner from my parents home to where I live now, and ... I am furious. I have no idea how to

use it.

I know it sounds stupid, but to be honest, I do not remember. I put negatives on the top glass, trying to scan -

nothing - he does not see the film. I try to put the on this tray down below - there is something visible, but so

poor quality, gray colours, no sharpness - I am getting mad :((( I did scan execellent photos with this scanner,

2 years ago, they were good contrast, good quality - now I have no clue what I am doing wrong. I reformated my C:

drive during these 2 years, might be missing something? Do not think so, as this scanner works, he does see the

film (on this glass tray below) but I would swear I scanned my films before putting the film straight on the

glass above...

 

My question are as follows:

 

1)any idea how to make this thing working? I scan B&W negatives, I set Transparent, B&W, Grayscale, using Agfa

Fotolook software. So should be fine, maybe I sould put the film other way? No idea...

 

2) if I can't scan with these or still getting poor results - can you recommend any other scanner I could buy,

possibly off Ebay, for like 100-200 $, of course older model, giving good Medium format results? No, I do not

need Coolscan 9000 or anything for 3000 $, I just need flatbed scanner that can handle MF or both 35mm and 120

film - that would be excellent. I have read about Epsons, Canons, I have lots of fuss in my head now. (aha,

please mind, I am Poland based, UE, not USA, so I have to buy used from Ebay probably, as new stuff here in UE is

2-3 times more expensive than in USA, unfortunatelly, hail the high taxes..). I am about good quality,

speed is not very important (I do not do much film, maybe 5-9 rolls a month so speed is not needed to scan

million of photos).

 

I know there is so many threads about scanners, but everywhere people recommend top new scanners for tousands of

dollars - I do not need any of these, I bought my Agfa for 100 $ - 3 years ago, and it served me very well, now

it's something not ok with it. (or with me and my memory..) :)

 

thanks for your replies.

dude, buy good overall Rolleiflex or even Rolleicord and FORGET the rest. Rolleiflex is the best camera ever made for MF, so silent, so nice to nadle, easy to use, and Planar /Xenotar model produce photos you won't even imagine. I have 3 rolleiflexes, all of em (1 rolleicord, cheaper version of Rolleiflex) are excelent camera. I won't touch havey Mamiyas, won't spend my money for expensive new MF cameras. No need. I love my Rollei, and its results are sharp, top notch quality and this is 6x6, it says all.

I use AGFA DUOSCAN T1200- hell cheap on ebay, I bouth mine 2 years ago for like 100 $, maybe a little more. Pretty decent scans, but it takes time (not that much, though).

hi there

 

I am currently shooting with Rollei 3.5 E , bayonet II type that is, and filters for this camera are not that

common and if - pretty expensive. I have heard you can screw in adapter that lets you use different size filter,

e.g. : 52 or 49 mm.

 

Like this one (sorry, it is not for commercial purpose, just showing what I mean):

 

http://tinyurl.com/6zovjg

 

1) Did anyone had experience with these? How does it look or feel, shooting with something like that on? Does it

mean after putting this onto taking lens I can use any 52 mm filter I want? This is important for me, as I chase

some decent red or orange filter and the only one I find on ebay are bay I (common and cheaper) or bay III

(common yet hellish expensive). 52 mm red filter, or orange are very common, 5 times cheaper etc.

 

thx for your replies.

 

H.S.