eric evan lee

Looks like it touched in the fix.

It is possible something shined in the window at exposure? Just a guess.

I select tablet on mine to connect. It allows me to use the iPad to control it for remote shooting and viewing the photos. You can download JPEGs from the card via the camera wifi. Great for emailing or just keeping on the iPad for viewing/showing.

 

Set up a new connection, and you'll get the icon for connecting to the phone, tablet, computer, etc... Don't try to salvage an old connection.

Did you rotate the developer around the film, twisting the film? looks like possibly developer movement. The same can be achieved with a swizzle stick going up and down in a tank getting lines under sprocket holes. Try putting the lid on, and properly agitating the film.

I would pre wash your film in a warming bath. Both kits will serve you well. Keeping the temp up is something that can be done in a tub in your sink, and using the chemicals one shot only. I've had good results at home.

 

I used to run an E-6 lab years ago. We used Kodak, and then later, Hunt chemicals. I still do my own E-6 at home, shooting 120 and 4x5 fujichrome.

Either your agitation is too aggressive, or maybe your film is not wound quite right on the reel.

<p>You already know the answer. It is in you.<br>

Others cannot possibly make a decision for you. They can help you decide if it is a good camera, which it is, but you have to make the call on whether the spending of your money on the camera is something worthwhile.</p>

<p>kay, you still have the problem? I'll send a picture if you need it.</p>

<p>vincent, good for you working on your lens. Are you still doing work on the lenses and cameras?</p>

<p>I have an RB67 that has the shutter cocking lever stuck part way down. No lens attached, but I'm afraid to move it for fear of breaking something. Anyone have an idea of how to fix it. I don't have a manual, but I know some of you might. Any suggestions would be appreciated.</p>

<p>Any chance of getting a copy of the RB67 repair manual. I've got a lens that needs repair. ericevanlee@gmail.com, thanks in advance.</p>

<p>I did my own seals. Call Mamiya, they will send them. A little contact cement, a toothpick, and your in business.</p>

<p>You know, in the Middle East, they cut off the hands of thieves. They only get two opportunities to steal. It may be a harsh policy, but it works.</p>

<p>Van,<br>

I think you answered your own question, quality.<br>

I shoot transparencies for publication; it is necessary to have the best possible originals, especially dealing with drum scanners. I use the Polaroid MP-4 for copying artwork.<br>

Eric</p>

 

<p>John-Louis, your right on the money. Thank you very much for the information. Just bought an NPC back for my Mamiya RB67 Pro S, no adapter needed.</p>

<p>Danielle,<br>

Take a look at your negatives. The numbers, and film type are printed on the edges outside of the frame. If these numbers are well developed, and are easy to read, it indicates an exposure problem. If they are very light, and difficult to read, then you have a developing problem. The manufacturer exposes the numbers correctly so that you may diagnose just this problem.</p>

 

The Ektagraphic film is really the old Kodalith. Your ASA is about 6 with a copy stand. It is primarily a black and white slide film, although grays can be introduced. It is for copying text. You can develop it in straight Dektol. I don't have my notes, as I'm traveling, but if you need more information, email me.

Yes, buy some Dektol, or perhaps a paper developer. That seems to be the problem.

Isopropyl alcohol will not damage your film. I used it regularly on my films. It will removed the grease. Don't dunk your film in it, but wipe it with a soft cloth containing the alcohol.

You may have already used this film, but the answer is for those in the future. The film

gives a blue cast, much like an x-ray. Its exposure range is from 10 seconds to 1 minute.

Wide brackets produce only slight difference in gradation. You will need the original to

evaluate exposure.

 

Develop in straight dektol at room temperature for 2 min. with constant agitation. Stop

bath for 30 seconds, and fix for 5 min., wash for 10 min., and photo-flo for 30 sec.

 

Calculated ASA would be around 0.06 for this film.

 

It is a very cool film. I used it years ago, and always had fun.

 

Good luck.

I bought a heavy curtain at Wal-Mart for blocking out light for "day sleepers" I guess. In any case, it was about 10 dollars U.S. and just perfectly covers the door. I guess the dimensions are something like 3' x 7'. I used a piece of electrical conduit from Lowes for the curtain rod, and a couple of pieces of wood to hold it. I works like a champ. No light even in daylight, and I have French doors opening to the outside pool less than 3 feet from my darkroom door.

Geoff - I was unable to connect to your "My Collection of Airplane Photographs" Might

check with your provider. Here is the message:

 

 

Unable to connect to database server

 

This either means that the username and password information in your settings.php file is

incorrect or we can't contact the MySQL database server. This could mean your hosting

provider's database server is down.

I purchased 2 yr old Kodak N surface RC paper. I could live with the gray. It was the

mottled effect that caused me to use it for note paper. Too bad. I liked that paper.

Are you still hunting for some techpan�? What size film?

Ian, my RB67 came with the 6x4.5 back, and a mask that lays on top of the focusing

screen. Works pretty neat.

 

Eric