sherle
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Posts posted by sherle
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I know this thread is long been put to rest, but I must say it was invaluable to me this past week. I had to photograph wine bottles, various still life's involving wine bottles, glasses and other reflective objects for a client and was struggling a bit when I stumbled across this thread. My client is very happy now and so I am very grateful to you for this thread. .....Sherle
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Oops, it must have been to late for me to think last night... when I was explaining f12, sorry about that, but I wasn't wrong about everything. Have fun practicing!
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Hi Benjamin,
I know where you are right now in your confusion, I was there not so long ago and no matter how many books I read I still couldn't get some things figured out, especially when books would interchange aperture and fstop. Finally I went back to college and took some Photography classes where I learned much. However I still have tons to learn, :-)
I will attempt to answer some of your questions...
1. "F/12 would mean less light hits the sensor right, allowing for longer exposures in brighter light?"
f12 would mean less light in comparison to f6 and yes the "exposure" would be slightly longer.
2. "An ISO of 100 is slower then an ISO of 1600? And would an ISO of 1600 allow less light to hit the sensor?"
you are correct in both of the above statements, in this case just think of them in seconds, which one is slower the 100th of a second or 1600th of a second. ISO, just like aperture and shutter speed it is just a means of controlling the amount of light your film plane receives.
3. "I thought I knew stuff about aperture...I don't."
When I was first learning about aperture and fstop I thought they were two completely different functions, they still kinda are... but the aperture is the actual opening and the fstop in a way is the measurement of the hole. Fstops range from 1, a very large hole ( lots of light) to at least 64, a little tiny hole (little light).
As to getting that motion blur on your water you will need to have a slow shutter speed, something less than 15th of a second or less and have your camera on a tripod, or at least a bean bag set in a tree or on a rock to hold your camera steady. Tripod is easier, but not always the cheapest way to go. My suggestion is also to shoot at a different time of day, since you will need to stop down to get your shutter speed slow enough. If there is sunlight on a long exposure it will get over-bright super fast. You could also buy a polarizing filter to help stop down your shutter speed.
"Early morning light. Is it just me or is everything really dark. I figure some post image editing will fix it up nicely." Everything thats in the shade is dark, and your exposure was taken from the brighter portion of the image, so your shadows went dark. One of the hardest things to get used to, and is almost never talked about, is the fact that your camera cannot see as you do, it has limits. When you learn to work within those limits you will have pictures you will be super happy with.
Controlling highlights and shadows are the hardest things to learn to control in landscape photo's but unless you get into HDR you will have to chose whether or not you want to open up the shadows or control the highlights. I would suggest controlling the highlights and let the shadows go where they will.
Before you decide whether or not your camera is bad or that you need to saturate the photos more I would suggest calibrating your monitor first. Make sure the color and brightness levels are good.
Hope this helps a little.... Sherle
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Nathan, thank you for the link to the Johnnie Walker ad, I really am going to practice getting that lovely lighting here at home before I go to the shoot, that is a definite inspiration.
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Peter that is a lovely picture, I especially love the blocks of light in the foreground. Very nicely done!
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Thank you everyone for your thoughtful and useful advice and for taking time out of your busy schedules,. I have been helped enormously, Now I have to finish my research, put my own flair to the ideas and get everything ready for the shoot which is the week following the 4th of July. Thank you again.....Sherle
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I have been asked to create some images for advertising purposes for a vineyard
and I would like some suggestions for good images. I have to photograph the
vineyard and I know early morning will be best, based on where it's located. I
was wondering if anyone has suggestions on looks I can create. I also have to
photograph the owners, one of which has a wandering eye, how do I best deal with
that, the other has an Italian nose and is somewhat sensitive about it, any
suggestions for dealing with those issues. They would like me to photograph
someone drinking the juice as well, this isn't always a pretty action, anyone
have suggestions for that. I will be setting up still life images using the
bottles, maybe some cheese, a knife, some bread and a board... just ideas,
looking for more. I will also be photographing the bottles as well, individually
and together. I am looking for innovative, interesting ideas where the end
product can be used in all their advertising materials.
As far as lighting is concerned I have 2 white lighting 800 strobes, 2 soft
boxes, reflectors of various sizes and a continuous light for back lighting if
needed.
Thank you for all your suggestions, even a place to look could prove useful.
WEEKLY LIGHTING THEME: Controlling Specular Highlights............
in Lighting Equipment
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