rosemary_winn

Do many advanced photographers meter 'by eye' instead of using a light meter?

Also, I'm a photo student working with a Busch 4 by 5 field camera & the only

meter I have is from a pentax SLR, who's fstop range is 3.5-22 and the field

camera's is f/5.6-45 would it be realistic to use the pentax, and just

calculate the exposure if it calls for over f/22....or should i just get a light

meter?

thanks

Rosemary

I came across a large format camera for sale under the lomo.com site, "Bulldog

DIY camera"

http://shop.lomography.com/bulldog/about/

I'm a photo student going into a large format photo class & in need of a field

camera--I just need a pro opinion on the durability of the diy camera-- will

medium density fibreboard last for years?

Thanks!

Rosemary

I recently discovered filters for bw photography, I have a red25 one and I just

got a UV filter. Is the UV simply for protecting the lense of the camera and for

high altitude photography? I live in the flatlands, so will a UV filter really

do anything visuall)(is there some amount of 'haze' in low alt areas?)

Also, there are filters which decrease the appearance of freckles, are there

ones which actually enhance them?

What are other filters that you have found made a great difference in your bw

photography? (i know, it depends on what I want to DO--but what are the vital

filters for bw?).

Thanks!

I've seen examples of the look Microdol can give to prints, the 'film noir'

look, so I bought a packet of it to try out. I just noticed it expired Nov 2005.

Is it worthless then or should I just give it a try?

I am planning to develop some KodakT TX400 with it. Will both 35 and 120 work

well with this particular developer? What kind of reputation does this stuff have?

Any other suggestions on the basics of Microdol are more than appreciated!

I have some questions, with possibly obvious answers:

I just started using a Red 25A Hoya filter with a 50mm Pentax. I had read on

another forum that some adjustments were necessary when using the filter. This

was actually about HIE film. I�m using Tri-X 400, but I did so with the �HIE�

advice�I didn�t keep a log of my shots� The HIE advice was to go 3 stops

up/or down�I forgot which, so I did both. The conditions were right before a

storm with really cloudy skies, and were just pictures of a house. I bracketed

through 36 shots, trying normal exposures, then overexposures/3-stops up (this

is called step-up, right?) and underexposures/ 3 stops down (step down?). Some

came out correctly exposed�with just normal looking clouds�now I know there was no �

dramatic effect due to the sky's grayness.

There were some ridiculously dramatic images�what I think is called the

�moonlight effect�, a really dark sky and lighted clouds, but with a

(underexposed) silhouette of the house. Is there any compromise here�the

moonlight effect in the sky with a correct exp of the house? Is this where

dodging or burning come into play, with printing, or something else?

Also, when adjusting the exposure, I have a TTL meter�do I take the reading WITH

the red filter on and adjust? Or do I take the normal no-filter reading, then

put the filter on to adjust to what the no-filter conditions suggest? Any other

basic know-how with the filter would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!